Hi and welcome to my LikeTheHike blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insight, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

So, there are a million blogs and resources available for travel packing, how to pack light, how to pack smart, how to pack three items of clothing to last 3 weeks…etcetcetc. I won’t be covering any of that in this blog. This is a post about packing for 10 days hiking the amazing Kumano Kodo trail in Japan!!!!! BEYOND EXCITED!!!!!

Where are we going?

TB (sister) and I are heading to the Kumano Kodo Trail, a series of ancient pilgrimage routes that cross the Kii Hanto, the largest peninsula in Japan. For 1,000 years, pilgrims have been walking the routes as they undertook religious acts of worship and purification. In 2004, the Kuman Kodo routes were UNESCO world heritage listed, one of two alongside the Camino de Santiago in Spain. So, we are heading to a VERY COOL part of the world.

We have selected a 10 day self guided trek of the core section of Kumano Kodo called Nakahechi. It runs from Kii-Tanabe on the south western side of the peninsula, up into the mountains and finishes at Kii-Katsuura. It links the three Grand Shrines of Kumano, and has an incredibly rich historical and spiritual atmosphere.

The trek itself is 68km split into 7 days of hiking with 2 experience days and 1 rest day. We didn’t plan the whole trip ourselves, but decided to use an Aussie based trekking company called Raw Travel.

WHEN TO USE THE EXPERTS

When my husband and I travel for a holiday, I’m very happy to plot, plan and book as sorting the logistics for a holiday is part of the fun. However, this holiday is a bit different. We didn’t know exactly where we were going, what would happen, where to book overnights or what to expect. So, we decided to use a travel company that specialises in self-guided treks. Our accommodation, meals and daily luggage transfers are all sorted, we have maps, briefings, and in country support. All we have to do is walk! So far our experience with http://www.rawtravel.com has been excellent. Ask for Chris, she’s the Japan guru.

Why are we going?

Shouldn’t the question be why not? The window in which a person can both afford to travel and is fit enough to tackle multi day hikes is quite small – so we are seizing the day. And, this was a birthday trip planned for 2020, but scuttled thanks to COVID.

What am I packing?

I am a regular traveller so packing for a standard trip isn’t a challenge. However, this is a 13 day hiking trip, and 10 of those days are through terrain that doesn’t offer immediate access to amenities such as cafes, supermarkets or ATM machines. The good news is that our luggage is transferred each day to the next ryokan (B&B lodging) so we only have to carry a day pack.

So, what’s going to Japan??

1. CLOTHES

10 days of hiking in weather that may be cold, warm, gusty or raining – it’s tricky. I don’t want to pack too much, but conversely, I want to make sure I have enough so I’m not wearing crusty socks for 4 days in a row. Here’s my list from the inside out:

• Undies – 14 – minimal seams and super comfy for all day walking

• Bras – 3 – 1 standard sports bra (Berlei) and 2 wire free bras (Enell)

• Socks – 8 – 5 2XU knee length compression socks (Vectr Light) and 3 merino blend

• Swimsuit – although ryokan onsens are strictly a modesty towel only (yikes), the outside natural onsens on the trails are swimsuit friendly so I’m planning to frolic in the water. We are also transiting via Changi Airport on the way home, and I hear there’s a pool we can use there during layover!

• Pjyamas – 2 – singlets and shortie sets

• Tops – 7 – 3 short sleeved and 4 long sleeved (3 merino in total)

• Bottoms – 4 – 3 full length and 1 calf length. Not a fan of hiking trousers…prefer stretchy.

• Head & Hands – gloves, beanie and ear wraps (my ears ache in the cold), baseball cap and sun hat.

• Vest – 1 – Kathmandu Heli down vest. I’m not sure how cold it will be in the mornings, and this packs down to nothing so it’s an easy inclusion. And it’s apricot – a good safe colour in the forest 🙂

• Jackets – 2 – 1 waterproof raincoat (Kathmandu NGX3 Trailhead Jacket) and 1 softshell travel jacket (TK Maxx last winter)

WATCH THE RUB

When I hiked the Kokoda Challenge (49km over 15 hours non-stop), a small seam irritation or issue with clothes quickly escalates into something intolerable. Having clothing fit properly and lie smoothly under your backpack is critical. Ladies, I’m talking bras here! Try different bras, t-shirts, jumpers and jackets on your training hikes so you know what works, and more importantly, what doesn’t.

2. HIKING GEAR & EQUIPMENT

It’s the “too much vs not enough” argument here. What if it rains for 3 days straight and I can’t dry gear? What if the trail is actually really easy and light trail shoes are better than waterproof boots – or vice versa?

• Footwear – North Face Vectiv Infinite trail shoes, Merrell waterproof hiking boots

• Rainwear – Kathmandu NGX3 Trailhead Jacket (see above), and disposable ponchos. I’m not taking over-trousers because I just can’t walk in them. I’ll get wet, then dry off at the end of the day.

• Day Pack – MacPac Rapaki Airstream 28L. ( I love the ventilated back – less “sweaty betty” and it can hold a lot of stuff)

• Water – 3L MacPac camelpak which sits very nicely in the day pack and feeds out with a water tube. It’s not absolutely necessary for longer hikes like Kumano Kodo, but it means I have water on tap (*boomtish*) for the day.

• Poles – MacPac telescopic hiking poles

• Sleeping Pad – hear me out! When I was researching ryokan accommodation, there was mention that tatami mats and pillows can be quite firm. I really don’t want to be uncomfortable, so I bought a foot press inflatable air mattress that I can use under a tatami. Its only 500g and fits really nicely into the bottom of my pack. If I don’t need it – happy days.

• Plastic Bags and Drinking Things – yes, I need plastic bags for wet gear, dirty shoes, dirty clothes and to protect my phone, laptop and passport. I am also taking a drink bottle which I can use for my protein water, and a little coffee mug to keep me happy in the mornings 🙂

UHOH…WE’VE LOST YOUR LUGGAGE

Lost and delayed luggage is a sad reality of travel. If my suitcase doesn’t make it to Tokyo in time to start Kumano Kodo, I can buy most things, but there are some things like boots and inserts which are worn in, and certain bits of clothing which I really prefer. So, I will be using my daypack as carry on, and will be packing non-negotiables such as hiking boots, inserts, one hiking outfit, medicine, laptop etc. Just in case…

3. MEDICAL & FIRST AID

I always carry a range of medications when travelling, Usually it’s gastro-stop, gaviscon, cold and flu tablets, panadol – drugs that keep you going as travel plans wait for no one! This trip is a little different as it’s post COVID, out of the main tourist areas, and we are hiking almost 70km in forests so the things I’m packing are:

• Anti-inflammatory meds, a footcare kit, hikers wool, muscle ointment, strapping tape, allergy tablets, gastro-stop, bug spray, magphos tissue salts and a shaker of table salt (leeches…. 😦 )

I’m also taking face masks (Japan still requires masks to be worn on public transport and some flights) and a couple of packs of antiseptic wipes for hands and surfaces.

HIKERS WOOL

I grew up in New Zealand, and Hikers Wool is a fantastic kiwi product. My mum (SJ), an avid hiker in her time, swears by it and shared it when I started hiking seriously. It wraps around and underneath individual toes, moulds to your footprint, wicks away moisture and prevents friction – and therefore prevents blisters and damage. Don’t ask me the mechanics – it just works! See for yourself http://www.hikerswool.co.nz

4. FOOD

Another recommendation from Raw Travel was to take along hiking snacks. The Nakahechi section runs through some very traditional areas of the Kii Peninsula, so the ability to pop out for a latte will be limited. Corner stores are not on every corner so that means minimal access to snacks etc. TB and I are caffeine fiends, but only via the traditional coffee option and the feedback is most ryokans offer lovely tea, but not really coffee.

So, here’s what I’m taking sustenance wise:

• Coffee – Avalanche Sugar Free Latte 10 pack. Its not a freshly made flat white, but it will do for that caffeine hit. Maybe it’s a good detox opportunity…!
• Protein – FeedGood Tasteless Protein/Collagen which I add to my water bottle. It allows for easy protein delivery when you’re walking and you don’t want to be eating all the time. And it really is tasteless. Really!
• Snacks – Carman’s Snack Bars and Aldi “On the Go” mixed nuts.

My snack needs are pretty simple when hiking. As you hike for longer periods of time, you find out what fuel works for your body, when and in what volume. I’m happy to have the same snacks each day 🙂 and then dive into the local delicacies at the evening meal.

5. OTHER STUFF

So, what else needs to be in my suitcase to ensure an amazing Kumano Kodo experience?

Electronics – laptop and phone, plug converter and charging cords. I’m still on the fence about taking a battery pack. They’re really heavy and we will be at a ryokan each night, so will be able to charge up. We also have access to an itinerary app via Raw Travel so we can track our daily instructions – what could go wrong?!

Cash – another tip from my research – take cash. There are very few EFTPOS and ATM facilities on Nakahechi. If we want a sake or two in the evenings, or buy things on the trail, it will most likely be a cash transaction. So, I did some complex calculations and decided on 5,000JPY a day ($55AUD). And, it was a nice round figure for the lovely Travelex kiosk lady. 🙂

Documentation – Japan travel requirements are pretty self explanatory, and they do require a COVID vaccination certificate at airport checkin, and there are a range of customs, immigration and quarantine forms online, which also have printouts you can take as backup. I’m not a luddite by any means, but I just don’t trust phones, links and screen shots when you’re next in line at customs. I’m a super law abiding traveller, but put me in front of a customers officer and I turn into a female version of Inspector Clouseau, complete with a severe case of the ‘dropsies’. So, I’m taking print copies of all of the above, as well as insurance docs, itinerary, train travel planning screen shots. I have a “folder”…. 🙂

Suitcase – this trip I’m trialling a soft shell Pacsafe Toursafe 96L anti-theft two wheel case. TBH I was quite surprised I got into this with all my stuff, so it’s deceptively roomy. I’ve paced around the house and driveway a couple of times fully loaded to see about wheel and handle robustness – so far so good.

Is That Everything?

After covering off all eventualities, all possibilities, all weather events and circumstances – I THINK I’M READY. AND SUPER EXCITED!!!

This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to experience something that is so different, so exciting and a hike that will, I feel, add to my growth as a human. I will be journaling on the hike, but will also be capturing some great stories (as I’m sure TB will do something very entertaining with her modesty towel in the onsens), so stay tuned for some more Kumano Kodo blogs!!!

See you on the trails,

PJ