As the crisp bite of autumn rolls into Tamaki Makaurau (Auckland), there’s no better time to lace up your boots and head for one of the city’s most iconic walks, the loop through Cornwall Park and up to the summit of Maungakiekie, also known as One Tree Hill. The leaves are putting on their best autumn fashion show, there’s a gentle crunch underfoot and the sheep are living their best lives, like they own the place, which to be fair they kinda do.

Cornwall Park in autumn is pure magic. Towering oaks, sycamores and liquid ambers are bursting into colour, paths wind past stone walls, grassy knolls and the occasional moo or baa remind you that you’re sharing the space with a range of original inhabitants. It’s a country getaway, minus the traffic, petrol costs and inevitable car snack disaster.

I started my 9km morning hike in Epsom and walked the quiet streets to an entry point for Cornwall Park, hidden away in a suburban cul-de-sac. Let Google Maps show you where you can walk, it’s surprising what pops up. Approaching the formal entrance to the park proper is rather imposing, with the liberal use of volcanic rock to welcome you.

The real climb befgins as you head toward One Tree Hill, and yes the name is a bit misleading these days. Maungaekiekie is not just a pretty volcano, it’s a place steeped in history and cultural weight. It was once home to one of the largest Maori pa sites in the region, with evidence of terracing and fortifications still etched into its slopes. Ngati Awa and later, Ngati Watua call this maunga home, and standing up there, you can still feel its mana.

And the tree? That’s a story. The original totara was felled in the 1800s. A Monterey pine replaced it, standing proudly (if controversially) for decades until it was removed in 2000 after being damaged during protests. These days, the hilltop is mostly treeless, but the obelisk still stands tall, a monument to Maori, commissioned by Sir John Logan Campbell, who also donated the land that became Cornwall Park.

Speaking of legacy, don’t miss Acacia Cottage, nestled near the park’s main gates. It’s the oldest surviving wooden building in Auckland, built by Campbell himself in 1841. Stepping inside is just like walking into a time capsule, you can imagine what life might’ve looked like back when your sourdough came from necessity, not a pandemic hobby! It’s a perfect mid-hike break to soak up some settler history.

What makes this hike even better? It’s urban. No need to travel to the ends of the earth to get your nature fix. Urban hiking is the unsung hero of weekend adventures. It’s cheap, it’s close, and it comes with actual toilets, albeit disguised! You get the buzz of discovery without the panic of getting lost in the bush. And let’s be honest, exploring your own backyard feels good. It’s grounding. It reminds you that beauty, history and a bit of exercise are all within reach.

So, if you’re after a hike with heart, heritage and a side of sheep, pop this one on your list. Bring a mate, bring your dog (on lead please, the cows are sensitive), and enjoy the simple magic of walking where the city meets the sky.

Like the hike? You’ll love this one. See you next time out on the trails.

PJ.