CONQUERING THE TE MATA GIANT – ONE SCARY STEP AT A TIME

Hello and welcome to my LikeToHike blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insight, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

Today we are tackling one of the more ‘interesting‘ hikes I’ve done, located in the North Island of New Zealand. It’s not a long hike but wow, it was challenging – and not in the way you would think.

Welcome to the Giant Circuit on Te Mata Park, located in the beautiful Hawkes Bay. This is a 5.5km trail that will have you smiling, smug, surprised, suffering, swearwording and satisfied all within a two hour timeframe.

Before you grab your backpack and boots, have a look at the Te Mata Park website at http://www.tematapark.co.nz. There are a lot of resources including maps of the trails through the park and some handy information.

Upon Arrival

First things first. To access the trails in Te Mata Park, make your way up Te Mata Peak Rd from the charming cafe village of Havelock North. The road is twisty and narrow, so take your time. You’re looking for the Main Gates Carpark.

Like many popular hiking spots on weekends, just follow the stream of cars and outdoor enthusiasts. There are some great info boards up at the carpark to assist you with planning your hikes.

Map at Main Entrance

CAUTION

I hate to be a Debbie Downer, but this carpark area is very well used, not only by hikers but day trippers and people just out for a cruise. As a result, petty theft from cards tends to be a frequent occurrence. Take the usual precautions and don’t leave valuables in sight in your car when you depart. This rule applies to every hiking carpark you frequent.

Starting The Giant Circuit

I was lucky enough to have a hiking companion with me for the Giant Circuit., which is always nice when exploring new trails. It was also a godsend as I got really stuck on a section of the Circuit with a “frozen legs my god its steep” moment. But more of that later…

I hiked this trail with my sister – TB. She’s a great hiking partner as we are about the same age (give or take), fitness level and generally the same enthusiasm for hiking.

Technically you can hike the Giant Circuit either way, but it’s recommended to hike counter clockwise. We hiked in the afternoon in early autumn which is a fantastic time to be in New Zealand and outdoors – a balmy 16 degrees, no humidity (!) and a slight breeze.

Te Mata Peak makes the most of its natural surrounds and has a strong Ngati Kuhungunu importance. Ngati Kuhungunu is the local iwi (tribe) traditionally centred in the Hawkes Bay region and also Wairarapa which runs south of the Bay. It’s important to acknowledge the land, the culture and the history and embrace the overall experience as you hike Te Mata. Being surrounded by such rich history makes a hike that much more enjoyable.

Easing Into It

Several of the trails run concurrently and then split at certain points in the park. The trails are clearly marked with their respective colour and you’ll see the red market for the Giant Circuit as you hike. Another fun fact is that the whole of the park is an ‘off leash’ area for dogs. Which is unusual. So don’t be surprised if you’re greeted by a groodle or surprised by a staffy…

Who are those masked hikers?!

TB and I set off counter clockwise and the first section of the trail takes you gently down into a gully, past some great vantage points for views over Havelock North and Hastings.

The shorter trails are all in this initial section which is a densely wooded gully, with lots of lovely twists and turns, and loops back to the carpark. You can start on one colour, intersect with another and take a new direction. They myriad of trail colours on the main map brings a sense of anticipation of what may unfold.

TIP

Take advantage of short trails and circuits to introduce hiking to your family, your kids, friends or colleagues. Short hikes of 2km or less are not so intimidating and give hikers the chance to try new equipment, clothing or shoes with minimal risk. My son loved bush walks when he was young – it gave him the opportunity to express his sense of adventure and be “in charge” of our destination.

The Big Redwoods (Te Hau Valley)

About 1.6km into your hike, welcome to the Big Redwoods copse.

The redwoods were planted almost 100 years ago and make for an ethereal section of the Circuit. They provide natural shade and you’ll see some cute huts and lean-tos made by kids playing in the area. The Te Mata Park website mentions the Redwood copse being used for weddings, events and even plays! When you enter it, the vibe is rather incredible.

If you continue walking in a general southerly direction toward the opposite side of the redwood copse and keep your eyes peeled, you’ll spot the Giant Circuit red marker. You will feel its taking you away from the park and into farmland, and you’d be somewhat correct. Part of Te Mata Park is farmland. Complete with sheep. And fences. And more sheep.

The Gully

So far, the Giant Circuit was a gentle, pleasant hike. TB and I were walking, chatting and enjoying the outdoors. Our pace was pretty quick as the terrain was mostly either downhill or flat.

The beauty of walking in New Zealand is the incredible terrain scupted by eons of volcanic activity. A bird’s eye view of Te Mata Park shows the land pushed together like ruffled fabric, resulting in rugged peaks and valleys. Think Lord of the Rings! Hiking in these areas means you’re either on the top of a peak, or walking along the floor of a valley, or traversing between the two.

Had studied my maps more closely, I would have realised where the gully was heading. And possibly turned around…

TIP

I always take a photo of the information panel when I arrive at a hike. Regardless of mobile coverage, I then have a photo of the map which I can blow up and scrutinise at my leisure. I also take a print copy of the trail map. Call me old fashioned but a printout is a great backup.

‘Snakes and Ladders’

You will arrive at the base of the Snakes and Ladders about 4.5km into the hike. Now I’m not sure of the origin of the name, I remember reading somewhere that the park ranger who created the track named it – and TBH – you need a ladder to get up the blimmin thing! It actually starts off quite gently, and after all, the hillside was scattered with sheep, how hard could it be?

It’s about now I will apologise. I didn’t take many photos from here, I was concentrating more on the track, my feet and balancing….then recovering!

It’s a steep, sharp switchback climb up the side of the largest peak in the Park. This track takes you up the southern face to the Summit, where the views are unrivalled.

Here’s where things got a bit hairy. I’m not amazing with heights. You know that prickly, hot, clammy feeling you get in your hands and feet? Yep, that’s me.

As the track narrowed from a comfortable width down to one that was only about 25cm wide, I knew I was going to struggle. Thankfully it didn’t phase TB at all. One of us kept her cool…

So, I didn’t look back/down, and used the vegetation to balance my climb. I think I zoomed up this section in a time to rival an Olympic runner. I just wanted it over and done with.

TIP

If you find yourself on a section of a hike that you’re not comfortable with, take a moment to centre yourself and make a decision to focus forward. If you don’t like super steep climbs and feel nervous, focus upward, and lean into the track. I use strong vegetation as a tool to balance. Not to pull myself up, but as reassurance that I’m grounded and stable. KEEP MOVING!! The hill isn’t going to get any smaller and you magically won’t float to the top. Every step forward is an achievement and when you’re done – breathe…

Summit and Saddle Lookout

The view from the Summit almost made Snakes and Ladders worth it. If you google Te Mata, most of the imagery is from this vantage point. This is why hikers and trekkers LOVE New Zealand. It was quite windy on the day TB and I hiked, so be prepared for some gusts as you walk along the Summit toward the Saddle. There is also a carpark at the Summit, so don’t be surprised when you heave yourself over the last couple of rocks, you are greeted by five curious tourists watching your efforts. The view from the Saddle Lookout is again – spectacular. You’re on the homeward section now, so spend a moment, have a sip of water and drink in the vista. *boomtish*

CAUTION

The section of track from the Summit to the Saddle Lookout runs adjacent to the road. Don’t be tempted to walk on the road (as many day-trippers do). You’ll be competing for space with a constant flow of cars going both ways. Enjoy walking on the track and continue with your Giant Circuit hike.

Interesting to see that the road really hasn’t changed in 100 years….

A Quick Peek at Peak House

The final section from Saddle Lookout to the Main Gate Car Park takes you through a lovely wooded area and past Peak House. Built as a destination venue in the late 1960’s, Peak House now offers coffee, meals and in the afternoons, a great bar and live music. As you can imagine, the views from their balcony make that glass of Clearview Reserve Chardonnay taste divine.

Nope, I didn’t stop but maybe next time…

After two hours of walking, climbing, sheer panic and recovery, TB and I arrived back at the car.

This is a great circuit to hike, not for the fainthearted (or those a little bit unsure of cliff faces) however the sense of achievement is worth the push.

Pat yourself on the back, you’ve just completed a fantastic hike, enjoyed the outdoors, perhaps tried some new gear for the first time. You’ve definitely done your steps for the day and embraced the experience.

Love and thanks to my bestest hiking buddy TB – and see you next time out on the trails.

PJ.