Tag: Hiking

The Blog about NOT HIKING…

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn Hiking, Uncategorized2 Comments

Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

Ahhhh, the enjoyment of a hike. Getting your pack ready, pouring over hiking maps, deciding on your snacks, your gear, the timing, then actually getting there and having a fantastic day.

EXCEPT.

When you don’t.

HIKING IN QUEENSLAND SUMMERS

I’m very lucky to live in a beautiful part of Australia. Queensland is an outdoor pursuits paradise and as they say, it’s beautiful one day and perfect the next. I can drive one hour south and been in the middle of the Gondwana Forest. An hour north puts me in a subtropical rainforest wonderland.

For nine months of the year, hiking in Queensland is a pure delight. For the other three months, it can be positively hazardous to your health.

Let me tell you why…..in escalating order of threat to safety and sanity….

#1 Hazard – Leeches

Or scientifically speaking, the Gnathobdellida (jawed leech). Leeches are closely related to earthworms, but act very differently especially when hikers are around!

Leeches are common on the ground or in foliage in rain forests. They are sanguivorous, blood sucking parasites that feed on preferred hosts like kangaroos, possums, padymelons, birds, frogs and HIKERS.

My first encounter with leeches was about 10 years ago when I did a short hike in Lamington National Park. The waterfalls were in full flow, the birds were singing, the sun was shining and it was a great day….until I got back to the car and took my boots off. There, tucked into the top of my socks and firmly attached to my legs were about eight leeches.

They ranged in size from a thin worm (like above) to fat black sausages the size of a thumb, all pulsing in sheer delight as they feasted. To say I panicked was an understatement. I didn’t know anything about leeches, how to remove them, what to do….so I ripped them all off as I hopped and cursed around the car. Not a pretty sight.

I now know that leeches are not painful, nor are they poisonous. In fact, you rarely know you have one on yo, so they are rather polite creatures. They inject an anticoagulant/anaesthetic as part of their feeding process so when they’re removed, you continue to bleed for quite some time. Leeches aren’t dangerous but they rate quite high in the YUK category so prevention is much better than cure.

TIP

Carry either bug repellent or a Ziploc of salt, either will easily remove a feasting leech. I liberally spray myself with bug repellent before I hike and this seems to keep most creepy crawlies at bay. Remember to spray BEFORE you put on socks, pants etc as they just love to burrow under clothing…

#2 Hazard – Ticks

So now we head into more dangerous territory. Ticks are parasites that feed on human and animal blood, They can vary in size from a pinhead to a fingernail, and they need blood to grow. Unlike leeches which drop off once finished, ticks stay attached to their hosts and feed for several days. Depending on the species of tick, this longevity can make the host quite sick.

Hikers are susceptible to ticks in summer. I went on a two day group hike last October, and ticks were literally dropping out of the trees onto us. Each rest break involved some serious tick inspections, with several of the group removing ticks from chests, groins and even ears!

Tick season runs from the end of winter, through spring and into summer, with ticks being most active during periods of high humidity, which in Queensland is summer.

Just because it’s Australia, we have a tick called Ixodes holocyclus, or the Australian Paralysis Tick.

This nasty causes paralysis by injecting neurotoxins into its host. Tick paralysis is most often seen in animals but humans can also be affected.

Locating and removing ticks early is important as human reactions can range from itching, to full blown allergies, and respiratory distress. There is a saying in Australia, “freeze it, don’t squeeze it” which means, don’t try to pull the tick off as often its head remains embedded…along with the toxins. Instead use a pressurised cryoliquid product like Tick Off to kill the tick.

TIP

I carry Tick Off as part of my first aid kit when I hike. I haven’t needed to use it (but friends have) and it works by killing the tick, which then drops off. I do know some hikers who are confident to tweezer ticks out, and there’s a tale that you can remove them safely by twisting them out anticlockwise but I will stick with the spray thanks!

#3 Hazard – Snakes

The one thing that will strike fear in my heart is the thought of a snake bite when I’m hiking. But really, how prevalent are snakes when out hiking in summer?

In Queensland more that 800 people were bitten by snakes annually in 2020-2022. In January 2023, 97 people were bitten.

As snakes are cold blooded, these encounters happen during our summer months when the slithery critters are on the move for food or a mate. Interestingly, most snake bites occur when people are trying to interact with a snake, to move it or kill it. 90% of these bites happen in people’s homes or back yards and not all snakes are venomous.

So, statistically, my chance of being bitten by a venomous snake when out hiking is pretty low. Doesn’t change how I feel about it though!

I have only ever seen two snakes out hiking. One was a lovely emerald tree snake sunning itself on a trail and the other was a death adder, also snoozing on a trail. Both scarpered pretty quickly.

My philosophy is to treat all wildlife with healthy caution, especially snakes. Given they are much more active in summer, I’m very happy for them to have the bush for those months, and I’ll hike in the cooler months 🙂

TIP

Snakes aren’t aggressive unless they are threatened, so if you come across a snake, stand still and wait to see where it goes. Then you go the other way, letting it disappear. Whatever you do, don’t try to move it, touch it or scare it. They sense the vibrations in the ground as you approach and are usually long gone before you even see them.

#4 Hazard – Dehydration

I bet you were expecting me to name another dreaded Aussie insect or animal as my highest summer hiking hazard – but NO!

From my experience, the most hazardous aspect of hiking in a Queensland summer is dehydration. Temperatures can reach well over 35 degrees (95+f) by mid-morning and any strenuous prolonged exercise can trigger dangerous dehydration. And our 2023-2024 summer has been brutal with a number of heatwaves lasting days.

The worts part about dehydration is you may not even know its happening. Feeling thirsty means you’ve gone too long without fluids and a dry mouth and decreased energy could be mistaken for a response to summer heat. Another good trick to stay alert for dehydration is the “umbles”. Stumbling, mumbling, grumbling and fumbling are all signs that you need to stop and hydrate.

The added challenge for staying hydrated in summer is that water alone isn’t going to cut it. Your body needs electrolytes and minerals such as potassium, magnesium and zinc. When I hike in hotter months, I use a dual water bladder so I can carry plain water in one chamber and electrolytes in the second chamber. And when you think you’ve packed enough fluid, throw in another bottle because you just might need it! The general rule of thumb for hydration while hiking in heat is one litre per hour.

TIP

If you are hiking in summer, hydrate BEFORE you start, Chug down 500-750ml of fluid in the hour before you hit the trail. When you’re hiking, take small, frequent sips. My water bladder has a great mouth piece that I thread through my shoulder straps and it sits nicely near my neck, handy for sipping. Finally, continue to hydrate AFTER you’re done, using electrolytes or a sports supplement like DripDrop or Skratch in at least 1 litre of water.

In Summary…

So there we are. My top four reasons for not hiking in the height of summer in Queensland.

It’s a personal preference only, and of course, anyone can enjoy hiking in any season and not experience discomfort, but I really enjoy my hikes and I don’t want to be panicking about sucky, slithery, bitey creatures!!

The threat of leeches, ticks, snakes and heat keep me off the trails for just a few months, but trust me, the rest of the year I’m out there having a ball!

See you out on the trails (very soon)

PJ

Backpack Hacks: What You Really Need for a No-Regret Day Hike

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn UncategorizedLeave a comment

Ahhh, the day hike. Nature’s cure for office chair back pain, screen-induced headaches and that nagging feeling that you’ve forgotten how the sun feels on your face. But there’s one tiny hurdle between you and hiking bliss: packing your backpack. Some might think, “its just a few hours, how hard can it be?” Well, let me tell you, it’s a lot harder than it seems if you’re the newbie who brought sunnies, a phone and no water.

Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or just fancy a stroll up and down a few hills, packing the right gear is key. So, let’s dive into the essential items every hiker should pack, and, equally important, the rookie mistakes you want to avoid.

1. Water: Your Best Friend

It sounds obvious, but you’d be surprised how many people underestimate their water needs. A good rule of thumb is to pack at least two litres for a moderate day hike. Add more if you’re hiking in summer, or on a challenging trail.

Hydration bladders are great because they fit snugly into your pack and you can sip as you hike without stopping. I have a 2L single, and a 2 x 1L double, both from Kathmandu. With the tubing conveniently on my backpack strap, I can rehydrate whenever I feel like it.

Rookie Mistake – Thinking a bottle of water is enough for an all day hike. It’s not. Unless you’re Bear Grylls and are prepared to drink from a dirty old stream, pack extra.

2. Snacks: Fuel for the Soul (and the legs)

Nothing says “I’m one with nature” like eating a protein snack bar halfway up a mountain. Seriously though, hiking burns calories and unless you enjoy that rumbling feeling on the way back to the car, pack plenty of snacks. Think nuts, fruit, highly dense protein and carb options that will keep you full. Even a good old sandwich does the trick.

snack time on the trail!

Rookie Mistake – forgetting snacks altogether, or worse, packing snacks that are highly fragile or perishable. I once packed sushi (which I thought was a great choice). Nope. It disintegrated during the hike because of the rough trail….! Stick to non-perishables that won’t turn into a science experiment by midday.

3. First Aid Kit: For when Nature Fights Back

You might think,” it’s only a day hike, I won’t need a first aid kit.” And that’s exactly when you’ll get a blister the size of a $1 coin, get poked in the head by a nasty branch, or discover the joys of a tick bite. A basic kit should include bandaids, wipes, painkillers or anti-imflammatories. Trust me, the one time you don’t pack it will be the time you trip over that rock and wish you had.

My kit when I hiked Kumano Kodo
An absolute must for Queensland hiking

Rookie Mistake – Thinking a first aid kit is for “serious” hikes only. Even a short trail can deliver some nasty surprises (hello trips, falls and ticks)

4. Navigation Tools: GPS and Maps

You may be thinking, “I have my phone, why would I need a map?” Well, my friend, phone batteries die, GPS signals drop, and then there you are, lost in the wilderness, trying to find the Wi-Fi password of the nearest tree. Maps are lightweight and definitely don’t need charging.

Laminated maps that live in my backpack

Rookie Mistake – relying solely on your phone for navigation. Fun fact, phones don’t always work in the middle of nowhere and no, your phone flashlight doesn’t count as a backup plan.

5. Clothing: Playing the Weather Guessing Game

Here’s a fun game nature likes to spring on hikers. It’s called “Guess What the Weather Will Do Next!” You’ll be sweating one moment and freezing the next, so layers are your best friend. Pack a lightweight waterproof jacket and bring an extra layer for warmth. Even on warm days, the temperature can drop, especially at higher elevations. I’ve been hiking along a ridge in Binna Burra and gone from a t-shirt to a jumper, beanie, gloves and jacket within 2km and 20 minutes.

Contents of my backpack for a 40km hiking challenge in winter in Queensland. The mint green mound is my rolled up jacket!

Rookie Mistake – dressing for how it feels when you walk out the door. It might be sunny and warm now, but trust me, by the time you reach the summit, that singlet and shorts combo will be a regret you feel deep in your soul.

6. Sun Protection: Slip, Slop, Slap !

Down here in Australia, sun protection is a big deal. We are taught to slip on a shirt, slop on sunscreen and slap on a hat from before we can walk! Trust me, nothing ruins a good hike like turning into a human tomato. Sunscreen is a must, even if it’s overcast because UV rays don’t care about pesky things like clouds. I always have a hiking hat with me, I’m sure you’ve seen it in my photos! Added bonus, hats protect you from ticks that love to drop from the tree canopies…

Rookie Mistake – “It’s cloudy, I don’t need a hat or sunscreen.” If I had a dollar for every sunburnt hiker, I could afford to install shade sails across every trail in Queensland.

7. Hikers Wool: The Best Thing You Never Knew You Needed

I’ve waxed poetic in previous blogs about the undiscovered hero of hiking, Hikers Wool. It’s a kiwi product, and is a godsend for sore feet and toes on hikes. Use it to relieve pressure spots or in between your toes for support. It is a permanent fixture in my backpack.

Rookie Mistake – not taking some form of product to manage blisters. Your feet are the one tool you can’t replace on a hike, and even experienced hikers can suffer from blisters. Throw in some bandaids and some wool, all sorted!

8. Emergency Shelter: Because Sometimes Sh*# Happens

Even if you’re just out for the day, pack something for emergency shelter, something as simple as a space blanket. Hopefully you’ll never need it, but it’s a game changer if something does go wrong and you’re stuck on the trail longer than you planned. I have a couple of ‘crunchie wrappers’ in the bottom of my pack (crunchie because its gold on one side, silver on the other!) They take up very little room but I know I’ve got them if sh*# happens.

Rookie Mistake – Thinking a day hike means no emergency gear. Day hikes can turn into night hikes if you get lost, injured, or take a detour that your mate swore by!

9. Headlamp: When Flashlight-in-Teeth Isn’t a Good Look

Scrambling down the side of a mountain trail in the dark with your phone clamped in your teeth? Not ideal. Avoid the dental drama and pack a lightweight headlamp instead. Did you know that dusk in the bush comes 60-90 minutes before everywhere else?? A lamp is perfect for those “oops, I guess we’re hiking after dusk” moments.

Rookie Mistake – Assuming you’ll always beat the sunset. One day on Kumano Kodo, the trail was harder and longer than we planned, and the last hour we were barrelling down the mountain, wanting to be clear before we lost light! Nature’s got no respect for your itinerary…

Conclusion: Hike Smart, Not Hard

So, there you have it. Pack the essentials, avoid rookie mistakes, and you’ll be on your way to a glorious day on the trails. Or at least, you’ll be prepared when your mate shows up with nothing but flip-flops and a can of fizzy drink, saying “I thought we were just going for a stroll?!“

See you out on the trails

PJ 😉

THE HIKE THAT WENT WRONG….!

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn Gold Coast Hinterland, Hiking, mental health, Outdoors, Uncategorized4 Comments

Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog.

I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

Ahhh – Kokoda Gold Coast 2023. My friend Fran and I decided that we would register for the new 30km Kokoda Challenge.

And then it went wrong! OUCH 😮

The Kokoda Challenge

The Kokoda Challenge is Australia’s toughest team endurance event that raises funds for programs run by the Kokoda Youth Foundation. Events are held mainly in Queensland (Brisbane, Sunshine Coast and Gold Coast) and in New South Wales (Lake Macquarie).

For those of you not from the Antipodes, Kokoda is referring to the 1942 Kokoda Campaign in Papua New Guinea, where Australian troops and local infantry battled the advancing Japanese army to protect access to the local airfield. The challenge distances ( 96km and under ) represent the real Kokoda Track distance of 96km and the history of Kokoda is recognised and honoured by many Australians, with many families having generational ties to the campaign.

Kokoda on the Gold Coast

I’ve hiked Kokoda 48km twice before. The first time was in 2016 as part of a work team and then again in 2021 with my sister TB and her two daughters. Our team was aptly named “SistasnBlistas” 🙂

I’ve not tried the 96km, not sure if I have the intestinal fortitude to tackle it but… never say never.

The 30km was a new addition to Kokoda Gold Coast in 2023 and meant that we could sign up with a short training lead time. I regularly hike 20+ so 30km was very achievable.

Hikers – Start Your Engines!

My Kokoda buddy Fran is a hiker from way back. She used to volunteer with NSW Rural Fire Service and spent many days hiking in the Blue Mountains so she was keen to flex a bit of hiking muscle for Kokoda. Our hike started at 2pm at Little Clagiraba Reserve. We kicked off along with what felt like 3,000 school teams – but was probably only about 300 kids. There was a little bit of a kerfuffle delay with the start shute as it led straight into a narrow creek crossing and a single file track, but once we hit the start line we were off! Thankfully it was a mild, cloudy Queensland winter day so perfect conditions for hiking.

The official opening
Fancy dunnies!
The swathe of participants
A fantastic drum team send-off

Section 1 – Up a Hill and Down Again

So the start of the 30km is actually the support crew location for the 48 and 96km. Once you go through the start shute, its 2.6km straight up.

In 2016 and 2021, you could sit at your support crew camp, have a bit to eat and a rest while you watch the headlamps twinkle as teams wound their way up the side of the mountain. A bit different for the 30km as it’s the first thing you do – slog up a huge hill!

We climbed 250m as we hiked 2.6km pretty much straight upward. Underfoot was shale and rock, and boy was it dusty. Lots of feet kicking up dust as everyone climbed. It was slow, and still quite warm. Took about an hour to make it up to the top with little stops to catch our breath.

Steep and dusty
The ribbons on the right denote the correct track direction

We crested the top of the hill and came into a lovely grassy meadow, the perfect place to stop and take a short break. It also allowed some of the larger school teams to move off and we could then hike with a little more peace and quiet 😉

10 minute RnR
Coffee time!

What’s in the Backpack?

Pleased you asked.

Packing for a 30km hike is a bit of a hybrid. It’s 10 hours and crosses from day into night. We had planned to complete the 30km before midnight, so averaging 3km an hour. Food and water was a must. The Kokoda organisers also require to you have a high vis vest as we cross a couple of large roads, a whistle, a first aid kit and we needed to download an emergency finder app. I included a couple of layers – merino wool, as well as a beanie, gloves and my trusty raincoat. Then I had assorted items – headphones, headlamp and batteries, two mobiles, drugs, antiseptic wipes, hikers wool and…here is what I packed…

Clockwise from 6pm we have raincoat, food, coffee, scarf, tops, extra socks, glasses, earbuds, high vis vest, space blankets, wipes, gloves and hat, gaiters, bags, hikers will and water bladder. Fran carried the first aid kit and whistle 🙂

After our little rest at the top of the hill we then walked along the ridge, with stunning views down to the Gold Coast glitter strip. The weather turned on some lovely mild temperatures and the cloud cover was just perfect. After walking for 3km on shale and rocks, the grassy paths were very welcome. It was then time to start walking downhill to Nathan Valley where the first checkpoint was located – which transitioned us onto a local road.

Of course hikers know what goes down, must go up…..!

Lovely softness underfoot
Gold Coast skyline
Nathan Valley Rd

Section 2 – Into the Forest and Disaster!

Committing to the Kokoda Challenge means you need to travel through the requisite checkpoints and pass over the electronic pads to record your progress. Importantly, teams need to pass through the checkpoints together – for safety as well as reflecting Kokoda mateship. Nobody gets left behind.

Fran and I arrived at the first checkpoint in good shape and really enjoying the hike so far. We had come about 6km, and it was late afternoon. Time for another photo, and toilet break and steeling ourselves for the next big mountain climb.

Checkpoint 1 for 30km hikers

We crossed over Maudsland Rd, tracked alongside it for a bit and entered into Nerang National Park proper. We had another big hill to hike up, around 200m and 2km. Again, we were back on the shale and rock hiking underfoot, which can be quite punishing on the soles of your feet.

Again with the Sweaty Betty’s!
Glorious Track Sunset

Around 5pm we were almost at the top – and disaster struck!

Fran injured herself…!

Not badly, but enough for us to stop and have a bit of a think about what the rest of the hike was going to look like. She was already hiking with a knee brace so this wasn’t a good thing.

It was heading into dusk – so it was headlamps on and darkness was upon us.

You can see a team ahead of us on the track 🙂

A decision needed to be made. Could Fran keep going and finish the 30km or did we need to cut our hike short and live to fight another day?

I’m very pragmatic about my hiking, and given that I’m over the half century mark, keeping my body intact is important. A quinquagenarian doesn’t bounce back injury wise as quickly as a quadranscentennial – sad but true.

Decisions decisions…

As you can see below, the 30km map involved a loop in the forest, and the 48km map was a shorter distance back to the finish. Unfortunately I didn’t have the two maps to look at when we were deciding what to do, but instead referenced the challenge signage on the track, so we made the call to hike the remainder of the 48km challenge route, estimating it would take us to the finish in 10km, rather than 20km…

What I should have done is taken the short route to Checkpoint 13 and then dropped down to the finish. Lesson learned.

Our pace slowed a bit, which was OK as we knew we only had about 10km to cover. We still had some hills and valleys, but they were a lot smaller. I reckon there were about 500 hikers looping around following the blue route, and the fast 48km hikers were also coming through, so it was a busy couple of hours. Lots of dust being kicked up…!

Checkpoint 13 is about 4km from the finish. We stopped there for a break so Fran could rest up and make sure she could walk out. There were a few younger hikers parked up there waiting for first aid and 4×4 pickups, but Fran was emphatic she wanted to walk to the end and finish – even if it was a shorter distance.

So, the earbuds went in and the podcasts went on – and we walked.

The finish line is down the bottom of a gentle hill, and you can see the lights and hear the loudspeakers so it’s a fantastic atmosphere. Fran was in a fair bit of pain by now so it was a very welcome sight.

We crossed around 9pm, having just clocked over 20km. Unfortunately you can only walk through the fancy finish line and they read your names out AND your time AND there are a million enthusiastic supporters clapping etc…. 😮 . It was lovely but we hadn’t done 30km and Fran just really wanted to get off her feet.

DONE.DOT.COM

I emailed the organisers the next day, explained the situation and asked them to take us off the finish board, and put us on the ‘incomplete’…..we didn’t want credit for something we didn’t actually do.

In Summary…

The Kokoda Challenge is a terrific event and one really worth doing.

30km vs 48km – lots to say 🙂

It was the first time the 30km distance was offered and it was chaotic at the start. It was full of school teams, including primary schools kids so if you are a regular hiker, I’d avoid the 30km. I found it too visually and audibly frantic. The route quickly became littered with the emotional wailings of young people realising that a challenge is exactly that….We passed one young person halfway up a hill who was refusing to take another step and was throwing the hugest hissy fit. I felt very sorry for the exasperated, yet very patient teacher.

The other thing about the 30km is most of it is walking around the Nerang National Forest. You loop back and forth for 20km on a kind of circuit. Kokoda training hikes are often done in Nerang due to the fact that you finish there, so for me it was hours hiking on ground that I’ve already spent quite a bit of time on….meh.

Consider training for and entering the 48km. I’ve done it twice and it’s such a great event, you get to walk on private land, army land – places that you would not be able to access. And importantly, it’s a track that goes in one direction, from start to finish, and because of the distance, teams are more prepared and committed.

It’s important to remember- any hike is a great experience. You will be out in nature, having a wonderful time and along with any challenge comes the huge sense of achievement when you finish. Injured or not!

See you out on the trails 😉

PJ

RATING THE RYOKANS – PART TWO

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn Hiking, Kumano Kodo, Onsen, Ryokans, UncategorizedLeave a comment

Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog.

I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

We’re back for the second instalment of “Rating the Ryokans” – with my very mathematical (!) approach that measures ambience, quality, cleanliness, onsen, dining and whether the establishment is Kumano and hiker friendly. In my last blog, TB and I had just departed the fantastic Manseiro in Kii-Katsuura which had a lovely onsen and a truly magical evening dining extravaganza.

TAKATA GREEN LAND (KUMOTORI ONSEN) – SORTA RYOKAN EXPERIENCE…

Our next stop was after our longest and most challenging day on Kumano. We did over 20km on some serious trails, finishing at a little village called Koguchi. We found a dinky corner store where we devoured drinks and snacks while waiting for our hotel shuttle.

Only just noticed that the label is mirrored!
TB and her best friend cup!

We arrived at Takata Green Land – and were perplexed. It looked like a sports complex, or perhaps a school camp destination. There were a number of interconnected buildings and the reception area gave off a very backpacker vibe, complete with worn industrial carpet, vinyl seating, pingpong table and 27,000 vending machines.

The foyer
Our dinky little shuttle van!

Happily our suitcases were waiting for us at reception. Unhappily we had a second floor tatami room and no lift. I almost killed me lifting cases up two flights of stairs after a 20km hike….

The room was very average. Clean, but sadly, much worse for wear with stained, damaged tatami matting, dings and dents in the walls. Such a shame as I suspect that it must have been quite lovely at one point in time. We had shared toilet and sink facilities right outside our room, and as it was very quiet, we pretty much had those to ourselves.

Example of room

The onsen, however, was first rate. Takata Green Land had an outside onsen which we could access via a private walkway. I am not the most graceful gazelle as my family will confirm, so add the complexity of full nudity, cold misty weather, a wet wooden walkway , and speed – and you can imagine the rest. I skidded into the outside hot pool very disgracefully but to the great amusement of my sister and the other onsen users, who were far too polite to show their mirth.

Travel photo of indoors

Unfortunately the onsen experience was the singular highlight of our stay. Post onsen we had high hopes for our evening meal. We were ushered into what looked like a school dining hall, which was doubling as a storage facility. Along two sides of the room were an array of plastic storage containers and boxes stacked ceiling high, and stored against wall was an outdoor canteen arrangement. We were two of the three guests dining that evening, three lonely place settings on a table about 20m long.

The food was fair, with a number of courses including salad, rice, miso, fish and a shabushabu with vegetables. I have to admit, we gave up before dessert and fled to our room.

TB decided that we were staying at the local Hi-De-Hic camp off season and I reckon she was right.

We departed early the next morning to get a bus connection to Hongu and then onto other hiking adventures. We were given a very substantial bento box, which was nice for lunch, well, more like a snack on the bus 🙂

HOTEL SUBARU – ROYKAN/HOT SPRINGS EXPERIENCE

After our Hi-De-Hi experience at Takata Green Land, I hit up Google to see what awaited us at Hotel Subaru. It looked OK – thank goodness.

Our instructions were to finish the hike, take the local bus, alight at the relevant stop and then walk down the road for 1.4km. Righto. There was a bit of excitement as the last half of the walk to the hotel was through a long road tunnel! We scurried through on a narrow pedestrian platform, and I didn’t realise how noisy a car tunnel was – deafening!

As we exited the tunnel – there was Hotel Subaru. It unfolded in front of us with a gigantic outdoor sound shell and fields to the right, and a sweeping driveway which led to the reception area.

Can I say – BEST WELCOME EVER!!!!!!

Name up in lights!
Pretty good prices

Omotenashi was in full swing at Hotel Subaru. The front desk was attentive and very helpful. The hotel lobby was immaculate and had a very well stocked (and modestly priced) convenience store where we could purchase some sake ‘friend cups’.

We had been assigned our only western room for our whole Kumano experience. The staff were very insistent on showing us every feature of the room itself, which took some time – mostly via mime as our Japanese, I’m embarrassed to say, was limited to yes, no, hello, goodbye and thank you! But we had a very enthusiastic delivery of our Japanese phrases…

Our room was very clean and tidy – AND – we had a sink and a loo – happy days!

It was, however, frozen in 1989. Complete with bed ruffles, English tea sets and matching curtains. Which provoked a fit of the giggles from TB as the earnest Assistant Manager was pointing out the room features….endlessly. I think the friend cups had a bit to do with it.

Hotel Subaru is renowned for its onsen, and wowser – hello fantastic onsen! It was a remarkable setup, indoor and out. And again, we pretty much had it to ourselves and by now TB and I regarded ourselves as onsen aficionados! Off came the hiking gear, out came the wash bag and the onsen basket and pfffft – who needs a modesty towel?!

COLD plunge pool!!!
Women’s outdoor
Women’s indoor
Where we wallowed for quite some time!

The outside onsen was tranquil, and soothing, and we had the place to ourselves (which meant I could sneak some photos!) We emerged squeaky clean and very relaxed.

This is where we both now did a happy dance. You know dinner is going to be great when you are shown to your own little dining enclave, complete with privacy curtain and a table set for a king (actually, two majestic queens).

TB happily seated
Why yes I will have a glass…
The beautifully scripted menu
This was actually BREAKFAST the next morning!!!! See our bento boxes for lunch...

We were treated to some incredible dishes including a whole cooked fish, a shabushabu which was a meal in itself and some beautiful sake. The atmosphere really made it a treat and the attendants were impeccable in their service and attention to detail.

I can see why omotenashi is such a part of the overall Japanese hospitality experience. I felt like visiting royalty, but in a way that showed immense respect to all parties. Well done Hotel Subaru.

NAN-IN TEMPLE – SHUKUBO EXPERIENCE

Our final destination before returning to Tokyo wasn’t on the Kumano trail, but falls within the prefecture of Wakayama, the spiritual centre of Kumano. Koyasan (Mount Koya) is the mountain of temples, comprised of 117 Buddhist temples founded over 1,200 years ago. Located high in the forest covered mountains, it won’t be a spoiler alert for me to say this was one of the most magical and spiritually affirming destinations I’ve ever had the privilege of going to.

Please put Koyasan on your list when hiking Kumano, you won’t be disappointed. And you will certainly get your walking distances in. TB and I walked 10km on our first day in Koyasan – so much to see!

Nan-In is one of the many temples which has been partially modified to allow for overnight experiences. They offer a simple, traditional glimpse into the Buddhist life and rituals. We were very impressed with the entrance to Nan-In, which was rather ornate to honour the gods. The temple is to the left, and the accommodation on the right of the compound.

We were greeted (as we were used to now) with outstanding omotenashi. Our boots had little homes to live in outside the front door and our raincoats and packs were dried and delivered to our room. Koyasan is quite high, and it was about 6 degrees and misty rain when we arrived…brrrrrrr.

We were looked after by a young monk who spoke English, he was very patient and helpful. He seemed to be on call 24/7 for guests as whenever we popped our heads into the office door, the monks waved us out and the young monk appeared soon after. That’s omotenashi!

We were shown to our room, past the communal sinks and toilet facilities. Everything was immaculate and I am not exaggerating when I say you could have eaten off the floor. The attention to detail was incredible and could be seen in every nook and cranny as we walked through the building.

Look out – incoming!
Our lovely tatami room

Our room was superb and had a lovely courtyard view. It consisted of an entrance space where suitcases lived, and then the main tatami space, with a sunroom out to the courtyard. We were the only guests in the wing…there’s something to be said for travelling in shoulder season… 😉

Our dinner slot was 6pm. Because we had been exploring Koyasan until quite late, we flipped things around and had dinner before the onsen. We presented ourselves at the main entry, and were ushered into a very ornate and opulent private dining room. There was a shrine in one corner, beautifully decorated sliding panels and a low dining table set for two. The only indication that we weren’t alone in the temple were the twanging American voices of a group across the hallway as they a) struggled to sit down on the floor, b) figure out the eating utensils and c) make sense of the communal bathroom facilities 🙂

Our dining experience was a wonderful treat. Koyasan is a mountain village and was quite cold, even in late March. To counter that, we had UNDER TABLE HEATING!! Our meal was simple, but perfect. I am now an expert in how many ways tofu can be cooked and still taste lovely. All the temples are strictly vegetarian and based on what we were served, possibly plant based. We had (again) modestly priced sake and enjoyed every sip.

After our wonderful meal we went for a soak. The onsen, was very small and indoor only. It did the trick however and we were able to cleanse, bathe and soak solo. It’s not a prerequisite, but still nice to have the onsen to yourself.

Kumano Travel photo of the onsen

TIP

Most onsens are only open during the evening, not in the morning. Plan to bathe on your arrival, or after dinner. If you’re a morning bather, be prepared to adjust…or sponge bath in the loos! at Nan-In, the onsen was open from 4pm to 10pm. Look for the coloured curtains which denote gendered bathing areas – they also do swap around so always check the colours. I have no easy answer for my non-gendered readers except to follow you authentic self and enjoy your onsen experience.

Overnight, no complaints. We were warm and comfy. Except our pillows were beans. Yep, dried beans. Quite firm and small, maybe A4 size? I was clever, I ditched the pillow and went for a bundle of clothes. Worked a treat. TB persevered with her bean torture, and ended up doing emails for most of the night. Not me!

We had an invitation to attend morning prayers before breakfast. No way we were going to miss that! We almost didn’t get in as TB and I were trying to ‘pull’ a ‘slide’ door but we made it. The ceremony was very calming and beautiful to witness. I love the fact that Buddhism just assumes you’re good people, no threshold, no test, just come on in. I’m not a religious person but I appreciate anything that encourages me to stop – breathe – and centre myself.

Kumano Travel photo of worship hall

Breakfast was a cut down version of dinner, again in our own dining paradise with fabulous service and food. Lots of vegetables and tofu. I was very happy 🙂

TB and I left with our souls and tummies replenished and looking forward to our final leg in Japan.

So there you have it. my list of Rating the Ryokans. There are places I wouldn’t stay at again, but I wouldn’t change a thing.

TB and I had the trip of our lives and that included all the experiences. Ichie Cafe, the hairy snoring neighbour but wonderful chiffon cake, the Hi-De-Hi camp with a magical misty outside onsen…every less than ideal stay was also a travel moment to be treasured, embraced and remembered.

Take my rankings with a grain of salt and rather than put you off, I hope these two blogs enrich your decision making process. Not one of our nights on the trail was unpleasant. Every night was an experience – with maybe a couple I don’t need to repeat!

That’s all for now, see you out on the trails

PJ 🙂

WHAT TO PACK FOR A 10 DAY HIKE ON KUMANO KODO

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn Uncategorized2 Comments

Hi and welcome to my LikeTheHike blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insight, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

So, there are a million blogs and resources available for travel packing, how to pack light, how to pack smart, how to pack three items of clothing to last 3 weeks…etcetcetc. I won’t be covering any of that in this blog. This is a post about packing for 10 days hiking the amazing Kumano Kodo trail in Japan!!!!! BEYOND EXCITED!!!!!

Where are we going?

TB (sister) and I are heading to the Kumano Kodo Trail, a series of ancient pilgrimage routes that cross the Kii Hanto, the largest peninsula in Japan. For 1,000 years, pilgrims have been walking the routes as they undertook religious acts of worship and purification. In 2004, the Kuman Kodo routes were UNESCO world heritage listed, one of two alongside the Camino de Santiago in Spain. So, we are heading to a VERY COOL part of the world.

We have selected a 10 day self guided trek of the core section of Kumano Kodo called Nakahechi. It runs from Kii-Tanabe on the south western side of the peninsula, up into the mountains and finishes at Kii-Katsuura. It links the three Grand Shrines of Kumano, and has an incredibly rich historical and spiritual atmosphere.

The trek itself is 68km split into 7 days of hiking with 2 experience days and 1 rest day. We didn’t plan the whole trip ourselves, but decided to use an Aussie based trekking company called Raw Travel.

WHEN TO USE THE EXPERTS

When my husband and I travel for a holiday, I’m very happy to plot, plan and book as sorting the logistics for a holiday is part of the fun. However, this holiday is a bit different. We didn’t know exactly where we were going, what would happen, where to book overnights or what to expect. So, we decided to use a travel company that specialises in self-guided treks. Our accommodation, meals and daily luggage transfers are all sorted, we have maps, briefings, and in country support. All we have to do is walk! So far our experience with http://www.rawtravel.com has been excellent. Ask for Chris, she’s the Japan guru.

Why are we going?

Shouldn’t the question be why not? The window in which a person can both afford to travel and is fit enough to tackle multi day hikes is quite small – so we are seizing the day. And, this was a birthday trip planned for 2020, but scuttled thanks to COVID.

What am I packing?

I am a regular traveller so packing for a standard trip isn’t a challenge. However, this is a 13 day hiking trip, and 10 of those days are through terrain that doesn’t offer immediate access to amenities such as cafes, supermarkets or ATM machines. The good news is that our luggage is transferred each day to the next ryokan (B&B lodging) so we only have to carry a day pack.

So, what’s going to Japan??

1. CLOTHES

10 days of hiking in weather that may be cold, warm, gusty or raining – it’s tricky. I don’t want to pack too much, but conversely, I want to make sure I have enough so I’m not wearing crusty socks for 4 days in a row. Here’s my list from the inside out:

  • Undies – 14 – minimal seams and super comfy for all day walking
  • Bras – 3 – 1 standard sports bra (Berlei) and 2 wire free bras (Enell)
  • Socks – 8 – 5 2XU knee length compression socks (Vectr Light) and 3 merino blend
  • Swimsuit – although ryokan onsens are strictly a modesty towel only (yikes), the outside natural onsens on the trails are swimsuit friendly so I’m planning to frolic in the water. We are also transiting via Changi Airport on the way home, and I hear there’s a pool we can use there during layover!
  • Pjyamas – 2 – singlets and shortie sets
  • Tops – 7 – 3 short sleeved and 4 long sleeved (3 merino in total)
  • Bottoms – 4 – 3 full length and 1 calf length. Not a fan of hiking trousers…prefer stretchy.
  • Head & Hands – gloves, beanie and ear wraps (my ears ache in the cold), baseball cap and sun hat.
  • Vest – 1 – Kathmandu Heli down vest. I’m not sure how cold it will be in the mornings, and this packs down to nothing so it’s an easy inclusion. And it’s apricot – a good safe colour in the forest 🙂
  • Jackets – 2 – 1 waterproof raincoat (Kathmandu NGX3 Trailhead Jacket) and 1 softshell travel jacket (TK Maxx last winter)
Apricot – good colour for safety
Waterproof to 1,000m – or a days rain
Stylish and warm

WATCH THE RUB

When I hiked the Kokoda Challenge (49km over 15 hours non-stop), a small seam irritation or issue with clothes quickly escalates into something intolerable. Having clothing fit properly and lie smoothly under your backpack is critical. Ladies, I’m talking bras here! Try different bras, t-shirts, jumpers and jackets on your training hikes so you know what works, and more importantly, what doesn’t.

2. HIKING GEAR & EQUIPMENT

It’s the “too much vs not enough” argument here. What if it rains for 3 days straight and I can’t dry gear? What if the trail is actually really easy and light trail shoes are better than waterproof boots – or vice versa?

  • Footwear – North Face Vectiv Infinite trail shoes, Merrell waterproof hiking boots
  • Rainwear – Kathmandu NGX3 Trailhead Jacket (see above), and disposable ponchos. I’m not taking over-trousers because I just can’t walk in them. I’ll get wet, then dry off at the end of the day.
  • Day Pack – MacPac Rapaki Airstream 28L. ( I love the ventilated back – less “sweaty betty” and it can hold a lot of stuff)
  • Water – 3L MacPac camelpak which sits very nicely in the day pack and feeds out with a water tube. It’s not absolutely necessary for longer hikes like Kumano Kodo, but it means I have water on tap (*boomtish*) for the day.
  • Poles – MacPac telescopic hiking poles
  • Sleeping Pad – hear me out! When I was researching ryokan accommodation, there was mention that tatami mats and pillows can be quite firm. I really don’t want to be uncomfortable, so I bought a foot press inflatable air mattress that I can use under a tatami. Its only 500g and fits really nicely into the bottom of my pack. If I don’t need it – happy days.
  • Plastic Bags and Drinking Things – yes, I need plastic bags for wet gear, dirty shoes, dirty clothes and to protect my phone, laptop and passport. I am also taking a drink bottle which I can use for my protein water, and a little coffee mug to keep me happy in the mornings 🙂

UHOH…WE’VE LOST YOUR LUGGAGE

Lost and delayed luggage is a sad reality of travel. If my suitcase doesn’t make it to Tokyo in time to start Kumano Kodo, I can buy most things, but there are some things like boots and inserts which are worn in, and certain bits of clothing which I really prefer. So, I will be using my daypack as carry on, and will be packing non-negotiables such as hiking boots, inserts, one hiking outfit, medicine, laptop etc. Just in case…

3. MEDICAL & FIRST AID

I always carry a range of medications when travelling, Usually it’s gastro-stop, gaviscon, cold and flu tablets, panadol – drugs that keep you going as travel plans wait for no one! This trip is a little different as it’s post COVID, out of the main tourist areas, and we are hiking almost 70km in forests so the things I’m packing are:

  • Anti-inflammatory meds, a footcare kit, hikers wool, muscle ointment, strapping tape, allergy tablets, gastro-stop, bug spray, magphos tissue salts and a shaker of table salt (leeches…. 😦 )

I’m also taking face masks (Japan still requires masks to be worn on public transport and some flights) and a couple of packs of antiseptic wipes for hands and surfaces.

a cornucopia of pharmaceuticals!
The OG

HIKERS WOOL

I grew up in New Zealand, and Hikers Wool is a fantastic kiwi product. My mum (SJ), an avid hiker in her time, swears by it and shared it when I started hiking seriously. It wraps around and underneath individual toes, moulds to your footprint, wicks away moisture and prevents friction – and therefore prevents blisters and damage. Don’t ask me the mechanics – it just works! See for yourself http://www.hikerswool.co.nz

4. FOOD

Another recommendation from Raw Travel was to take along hiking snacks. The Nakahechi section runs through some very traditional areas of the Kii Peninsula, so the ability to pop out for a latte will be limited. Corner stores are not on every corner so that means minimal access to snacks etc. TB and I are caffeine fiends, but only via the traditional coffee option and the feedback is most ryokans offer lovely tea, but not really coffee.

So, here’s what I’m taking sustenance wise:

  • Coffee – Avalanche Sugar Free Latte 10 pack. Its not a freshly made flat white, but it will do for that caffeine hit. Maybe it’s a good detox opportunity…!
  • Protein – FeedGood Tasteless Protein/Collagen which I add to my water bottle. It allows for easy protein delivery when you’re walking and you don’t want to be eating all the time. And it really is tasteless. Really!
  • Snacks – Carman’s Snack Bars and Aldi “On the Go” mixed nuts.

My snack needs are pretty simple when hiking. As you hike for longer periods of time, you find out what fuel works for your body, when and in what volume. I’m happy to have the same snacks each day 🙂 and then dive into the local delicacies at the evening meal.

5. OTHER STUFF

So, what else needs to be in my suitcase to ensure an amazing Kumano Kodo experience?

Electronics – laptop and phone, plug converter and charging cords. I’m still on the fence about taking a battery pack. They’re really heavy and we will be at a ryokan each night, so will be able to charge up. We also have access to an itinerary app via Raw Travel so we can track our daily instructions – what could go wrong?!

Cash – another tip from my research – take cash. There are very few EFTPOS and ATM facilities on Nakahechi. If we want a sake or two in the evenings, or buy things on the trail, it will most likely be a cash transaction. So, I did some complex calculations and decided on 5,000JPY a day ($55AUD). And, it was a nice round figure for the lovely Travelex kiosk lady. 🙂

Documentation – Japan travel requirements are pretty self explanatory, and they do require a COVID vaccination certificate at airport checkin, and there are a range of customs, immigration and quarantine forms online, which also have printouts you can take as backup. I’m not a luddite by any means, but I just don’t trust phones, links and screen shots when you’re next in line at customs. I’m a super law abiding traveller, but put me in front of a customers officer and I turn into a female version of Inspector Clouseau, complete with a severe case of the ‘dropsies’. So, I’m taking print copies of all of the above, as well as insurance docs, itinerary, train travel planning screen shots. I have a “folder”…. 🙂

Suitcase – this trip I’m trialling a soft shell Pacsafe Toursafe 96L anti-theft two wheel case. TBH I was quite surprised I got into this with all my stuff, so it’s deceptively roomy. I’ve paced around the house and driveway a couple of times fully loaded to see about wheel and handle robustness – so far so good.

Is That Everything?

After covering off all eventualities, all possibilities, all weather events and circumstances – I THINK I’M READY. AND SUPER EXCITED!!!

This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to experience something that is so different, so exciting and a hike that will, I feel, add to my growth as a human. I will be journaling on the hike, but will also be capturing some great stories (as I’m sure TB will do something very entertaining with her modesty towel in the onsens), so stay tuned for some more Kumano Kodo blogs!!!

See you on the trails,

PJ

Going to Gondwana – Our Hike into the Distant Past!

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn UncategorizedLeave a comment

Hello and welcome to my LikeToHike blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

Today’s blog is pretty special – we are heading into the Gondwana Rainforest!

Gondwana Rainforest is a cluster of 50 separate reserves stretching from Newcastle in the south to Brisbane in the north. Gondwana was World Heritage listed in 1986, and contains the remnants of the great rainforests which once covered the entire continent of Australia.

Gondwana is known for vertical stone cliffs, volcanic craters, inspiring waterfalls and a range of ancient flora and fauna. Included in the Gondwana footprint is Lamington National Park, and within that, Binna Burra. One of the many trails at Binna Burra is the Lower Bellbird Track – which is my blog for today…

Welcome to Lower Bellbird Trail

CAUTION

Binna Burra is SW of Gold Coast and close to the Qld/NSW border. The road up to Binna Burra was washed out about a year ago in heavy rains. The trip up takes over an hour to travel 55km as sections of the road are down to single lane and controlled by traffic lights. Allow enough time to get up and down the mountain.

We chose the Lower Bellbird Trail because 1) the name is lovely, 2) I prefer hiking circuits so you’re on new ground the whole way and 3) we wanted a trail that was over 10km long. We are in training for Kumano Kodo, so need to get some miles on the boots.

We hiked Lower Bellbird anti-clockwise, starting at the southern entry point, and looping south, then turning north, and finishing at the northern exit point.

TIP

It’s important to note that Lower Bellbird Trail doesn’t fully loop. Otherwise it would be called Lower Bellbird Circuit!
You will finish at a different place to where you started. We finished further down the mountain, and then walked back up the road to our car, which was at the southern entry point carpark. There are carparks near the southern and northern entry/exit points to Bellbird, but regardless where you park, you will still need to walk on the road to start or finish Bellbird.

Let’s Go!

carpark downhill, Bellbird entry to the right
Bellbird entry point
Gotta love Wildlife Ranger sense of humour

The Lower Bellbird Trail is well marked and easy to find. We started at 6am, and as you can see, no cars. By 9.30am when we returned, different story. Parking is limited so if you want a good park, start early.

Binna Burra Lodge and the surrounding areas were developed in the 1930’s. Many of the hiking trails were built around the same time. Along some of the older trails you will see stones set into the side of the trail. I find these stones immensely reassuring, because if the stones are there, that means I’m in the right place!

stones = right trail

The first 2.8km of Lower Bellbird leads you down a gentle slope, under a beautiful forest canopy. It doesn’t take long to realise you’re in for a very special hike. The forest is dense and cool, and the bird calls are an assault on the senses. It wasn’t long before we got our first glimpse of the views. The trail was taking us long the side of a cliff face, not exposed but certainly high and that afforded us a view from the top of the world.

Lookout Spots – AMAZING!

There are two lookout spots on the Lower Bellbird, Koolanbilba and Yangahla. Both are on the trail, so are worth a breather and a look. The signage at the Koolanbilba lookout confused me a little as it didn’t reference Bellbird at all, but you can’t get lost, there’s only one way to walk! The view is nothing short of amazing. There is a map at the lookout which explains what you’re looking at, all the way to the Gold Coast in the far distance.

TIP

The Lower Bellbird Trail is what I would call a medium challenge trail. It’s quite narrow and in parts there are natural obstacles like steep stairs, fallen branches, uneven surfaces, rather large spiderwebs (!) and my nemesis, cliff faces. It’s not aerobically challenging, but skill, experience and mettle challenging. I suspect because it starts and finishes at different points, it’s not as well hiked as other Binna Burra trail options so less well worn, but if you’ve hiked before and/or you’re agile, no worries mate!

Rock Formations – AMAZING!

As I mentioned earlier, one of the features of the Gondwana Rainforest is the incredible rock formations. We walked past them, through them, down them, alongside them and under them. I am in awe of the men and women who created these trails almost 100 years ago with the simplest of tools and equipment – no Google or GPS…

Morning Tea Anyone?

If I hike for more than about 10km, I like to stop for a break. Usually when hiking a circuit, the break is at the top (or bottom) which gives you a chance to either catch your breath, or steel yourself for what’s to come. By around the 8.5km we had been walking gently downhill for about 90 minutes – which was lovely, but what goes down has to go back up!

We arrived at the split between Ships Stern Trail and the Lower Bellbird Trail. Our trail was taking us up, so we stopped for a short break of apples, scroggin, iced coffee and marshmallows. (don’t ask, they were in the scroggin!)

The signage around Binna Burra is pretty clear and our trail was well marked. You will start your hike upward around the 8.8km mark, but don’t’ worry, the first upward section is quite gentle.

Scarred Landscape

Australia is known globally for a few things. Kangaroos, drop bears, flies, BBQ’s and hot summers. Along with hot summers comes bush fires. The 2019-20 Black Summer bushfires were some of the worst recorded across Australia. In September 2019, a fast-moving bushfire swept through Binna Burra and burned homes, buildings, lodges and infrastructure to the ground. It also caused unusually significant damage to the surrounding rainforest. Every Australian knows the smell of a bushfire and the visceral fear it can create. Blackened tree trunks identifies a bushfire area and can remain as evidence for many years.

Stone Cliffs – AMAZING!

After walking up a gentle incline through a lovely carpet of dry leaves and another cool rainforest canopy for about 3km, we came across a very imposing set of stone cliffs. The cartographer in me was eyeing up the stone cliffs with some trepidation as I couldn’t see how we were going to traverse our way up and out. What I didn’t know was the trail hugged its way around the stone cliffs to the north, and then turned left into the forest.

The cliffs have regular rock falls, so signage asks you not to stop as you move through two key sections. The feel of walking this section of the trail was very imposing as our human frailty was very much in evidence when compared to eons of rock formations.

Dairy Farm in a Rainforest??

Around the 13km mark, we came out into the most picturesque clearing…in face my niece SB likened it to the Twilight Meadow, and you can see what she means. All we needed was sparkly skin and we would be in a movie set!

I read somewhere that part of the Lower Bellbird used to be a dairy farm, and this clearing definitely had a relaxed bovine vibe to it. We could have plonked here all day and just revelled in the ambience.

PS – it was at this point we saw the first hikers walking the other way. Up to this point, we hadn’t passed anyone!

Back to Reality

The last section of the trail is a gravel access road going up from the Twilight Meadow to Binna Burra Rd. It’s only about 1km from the meadow back to reality. There is a slightly confusing fork in the gravel road, with an arrow to the left, and the gravel road continuing straight ahead. We studied our print map and decided that both led back to the road, so we took the recommended left turn.

Rubber to the Road

Oh my.

We weren’t anticipating the uphill hike back to the carpark.

We exited Lower Bellbird at the first “x marks the spot”. We had to walk back to the carpark, which is the second “x marks the spot”. The difference? 2.5km. Up. Or as I described it to my hiking buddies “just a bit further!”

However, the views from the road our over Lamington were fantastic , and we could just see where we finished Lower Bellbird, circled in blue. Thankfully it wasn’t a hugely aerobic hike, otherwise the last leg up the road would have been painful.

TIP

I would recommend you plan for this last section. Either allow for it at the start, or as we did, at the end. Unless you have a driver on call, you will be walking 2.5km on the road at some stage as part of your Lower Bellbird hike.

So, What Did We Think?

I give this trail two thumbs up. So do my hiking buddies TB(sister), SB and MB (nieces). It’s a visually stunning way to spend 3 hours – even the road section views are awesome.

We saw such a range of Australian forest history, walking in a rainforest that has been in existence for thousands of years *mindblown*

We were serenaded with a cascade of forest sounds. We heard whipbirds, green catbirds (very unnerving, they sound like babies crying), cicadas, bullfrogs, kookaburras – and a whole lot more we couldn’t identify but enjoyed nonetheless.

We had the trail to OURSELVES! We didn’t see hikers until we were in the Twilight meadow. That never happens. It was our own little bit of rainforest fabulousness. Forest bathing uninterrupted. yay.

FINAL TIP

It’s great to support local businesses when you hike. We try to buy a coffee, a snack, a map, a hat, and spend our dollars as we hike. If you go to Binna Burra on a Sunday, stop in afterward at the Beechmont Farmers Market (3rd Sunday of the month). hey offer a range of local products and services. I can recommend the Beech Mountain Distillery stand, they do a mean Lemon Myrtle Gin!

Wrapping Up

So there you have it. Binna Burra in a nutshell. Take the time to drive up to Binna Burra and explore the trails. You won’t be disappointed.

See you next time out on the trails.

PJ

PS – remember last time I was talking about one of the benefits of hiking being good muscle tone? Well, I managed to face plant on the footpath walking the dogs last week, and gave myself a spectacular black eye.

I also banged my hand, knee and shoulder but guess what – NO BROKEN BONES 🙂

Told ya – hiking works.

Why Hiking Saved my Sanity – and the 5 Hiking Benefits You Need to Know!

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn Hiking, mental health, Outdoors, UncategorizedLeave a comment

Hello and welcome to my LikeToHike blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insight, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

So, I bet you’re wondering, how did I start hiking, and more importantly, why do I keep doing it?

Well, the second part of that question is easier to answer than the first part, but let’s see how we go.

CAUTION

In this blog I’ll be talking a bit about my own hiking journey and life, some of of the personal things I discovered along the way and doing some “sharing”…..which I’m sure you won’t mind…if you aren’t feeling the vibe, skip and I’ll see you next time!

How Did I Start Hiking?

I used to be a runner. Not a lithe, lean, easy runner but a hot, sweaty, ungainly one. I thought that running was the only way to keep fit and healthy. And I did enjoy it. Somewhat. Apart from the chafing, sore knees, sore hips, constant bra issues and blisters.

What really ticked the boxes was being outside, feeling the seasons, moving through different landscapes, having different terrain underfoot, seeing different people and things.

As I transitioned from my third decade into my fourth, I decided there had to be a better way to keep fit and enjoy the outdoors. So, I just slowed it down. I went from running (jogging!) to walking. Albeit fast walking. I found that I had more time to see, feel and experience what was happening around me.

It gave me time to reflect, to ruminate, to problem solve, to de-stress and to mentally and emotionally breathe.

TIP

When you start walking/hiking, some of the apps and tools available make a big difference to your experience. I have used sites like AllTrails and TrailHiking, and apps like Strava and Relive to research and then track my hikes. It makes it feel “real” and in a way, validates what you are doing. If you want to go all in, most apps have a community you can connect with and exchange trails, hikes and performance data.

In the middle of my fourth decade I was travelling for work. A lot. Walking was my excuse to explore new cities and towns, to find the walking trails, the rivers, the beaches, the forests and the bush. Every time I packed my suitcase, I threw in my sneakers and my walking gear. So, now I was a walker. Note quite a hiker. Yet.

Clockwise – Canungra, Brisbane & Sawtell (Australia), Havelock North (NZ) and Berlin (Germany)

Hello Hiking!

About eight years ago, a work colleague and I had the bright idea of putting a four-person team in for the Gold Coast Kokoda Challenge, which is an endurance event held in the Gold Coast hinterland.

Yes, it was about fundraising and developing professional and personal relationships, but it was also about committing to training and pushing, both mentally and physically. We trained as a team for six months – every weekend and sometimes during the week, all through a Queensland summer, then hiked 48km non-stop in July, starting at 11am and finishing at 3am the next day.

And it was FANTASTIC!

However, if you want to try hiking for the first time, maybe aim for something a little less hard core. But then again….there’s a lot to be said for jumping in boots and all…

2016 – the hiking love affair begins

So, Why Do I Keep Hiking?

When I went from my fourth decade into my fifth, some things happened. I got fat. Not super fat, but about 20kg worth. Some was diet and lifestyle, but most of it was age and stage. I was still walking, but hormones were dictating the direction, not me.

I did realise that if I wanted things to change, it was up to me to create the environment, the conditions and the outcomes.

So, what were the things in my world that brought me pleasure, and what were the things I really didn’t like? What did I want in my life? What were my non-negotiables?

The good news? Husband, child and the two dogs made the cut. So did hiking.

The bad news? The unwanted weight didn’t make the cut. Neither did the job I didn’t like, the commute I hated, the stress, the gaslighters and the crappy food.

At the end of 2021 I made a commitment and embarked on the “year of me”. As this isn’t a self transformation blog I’ll park it there, but by the end of 2022 my goals were met – and hiking played a big part.

Back to the top five benefits of hiking that YOU NEED TO KNOW!

1. Self Esteeem

Nope, the first benefit isn’t weight loss. It’s actually about you. Your confidence, your self esteem. We live in a fast paced world, driven by social media and impossible standards which presume to tell us all the things we aren’t doing well. Or correctly. Or at the right time. Or the right way.

Hiking makes you feel good about you. You’re in charge of the hike. It’s all about where you want to walk, when you want to walk, how fast, how long, with whom and why. You’re in charge of everything. This provides an incredible push of confidence. Embrace the new experiences….

2. Shinrin-Yoku

My favourite pastime. Forest bathing. A phrase coined in Japan about 40 years ago to describe the process of taking in the forest atmosphere to combat tech burnout and reconnect with the natural environment. I love embracing the calm and quiet in the bush, listening to the sounds and just being. Everywhere I hike has a soundtrack, and I love tuning in.

The best part? You don’t need to hike 20km to enjoy the benefits of shinrin-yoku. Try the park down the road. Sit. Listen. Enjoy.

Forest Bathing in a park in Melbourne, Australia

3. Stress Reduction

Told you, weight loss probably won’t make the top 5…

A common by-product of our busy lives is stress. In Australia right now, we have cost of living and mortgage stress as inflation creeps and a recession may be on the horizon. Job security, job performance, family, relationships, being perfect. Its a tough ask.

Hiking gives you a reason to park all that for a short while. Boots. Backpack. Hike. Rinse and repeat. Concentrating on a hike means your brain has less time to worry endlessly about the above. When I hike I’m focussed on my feet, the trail, the trees, the map, my poles, hydrating, saying hello to people and generally what’s happening around me. I unplug from all the “things”.

Less stress. It works.

Springbrook National Park, Queensland

4. Muscles and Bones

It’s a fact of life that as we get older, muscles and bones age also. Strength, density and tone become more important, especially for women. Toned muscles support bones. How many times have you heard about that nana who tripped and broke a wrist? Or that auntie who rolled an ankle? Good muscle tone might not prevent the fall, but it will help minimise the damage.

Hiking is an activity that encourages good muscle development and maintenance. Uneven terrain, hills, slopes, valleys, steps, rocks – they engage and encourage muscle tone in legs, arms, back, feet and core. All the good places.

5. Sense of Community

Rounding out my top 5 benefits of hiking is a sense of community. A sense of belonging to something bigger than you.

Hiking is a popular pastime and offers some incredible events and opportunities on a global scale. You can hike Everest, slog the Kokoda Challenge, shinrin-yoku the Nakasendo Way or commit to the Camino Trail – there’s a hike for you and a fantastic network of like-minded individuals who will be cheering you on. If you haven’t participated in a hiking event, I can highly recommend it., Having a shared purpose and common experience is something very special.

Kokoda Start 2016
Kokoda Finish 2021 (at 3.35am!)

Hiking gives you entry into a community of people who not only accept you and your goals, but actively encourage and support your endeavours. Pretty cool huh?!

Wrapping It Up

So there you have it.

My top 5 benefits of hiking that you need to know. Keep in mind, this is my top 5, and have come from my hiking journey of discovery. Everyone has a different journey with different experiences and milestones – which is the fun of it.

See you next time out on the trails.

PJ.

PS – weight loss is definitely a benefit – but it’s a result of hiking – not the reason 🙂

CONQUERING THE TE MATA GIANT – ONE SCARY STEP AT A TIME

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn Hiking, Outdoors, UncategorizedLeave a comment

Hello and welcome to my LikeToHike blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insight, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

Today we are tackling one of the more ‘interesting‘ hikes I’ve done, located in the North Island of New Zealand. It’s not a long hike but wow, it was challenging – and not in the way you would think.

Welcome to the Giant Circuit on Te Mata Park, located in the beautiful Hawkes Bay. This is a 5.5km trail that will have you smiling, smug, surprised, suffering, swearwording and satisfied all within a two hour timeframe.

Before you grab your backpack and boots, have a look at the Te Mata Park website at http://www.tematapark.co.nz. There are a lot of resources including maps of the trails through the park and some handy information.

Upon Arrival

First things first. To access the trails in Te Mata Park, make your way up Te Mata Peak Rd from the charming cafe village of Havelock North. The road is twisty and narrow, so take your time. You’re looking for the Main Gates Carpark.

Like many popular hiking spots on weekends, just follow the stream of cars and outdoor enthusiasts. There are some great info boards up at the carpark to assist you with planning your hikes.

Map at Main Entrance

CAUTION

I hate to be a Debbie Downer, but this carpark area is very well used, not only by hikers but day trippers and people just out for a cruise. As a result, petty theft from cards tends to be a frequent occurrence. Take the usual precautions and don’t leave valuables in sight in your car when you depart. This rule applies to every hiking carpark you frequent.

Starting The Giant Circuit

I was lucky enough to have a hiking companion with me for the Giant Circuit., which is always nice when exploring new trails. It was also a godsend as I got really stuck on a section of the Circuit with a “frozen legs my god its steep” moment. But more of that later…

I hiked this trail with my sister – TB. She’s a great hiking partner as we are about the same age (give or take), fitness level and generally the same enthusiasm for hiking.

Technically you can hike the Giant Circuit either way, but it’s recommended to hike counter clockwise. We hiked in the afternoon in early autumn which is a fantastic time to be in New Zealand and outdoors – a balmy 16 degrees, no humidity (!) and a slight breeze.

Te Mata Peak makes the most of its natural surrounds and has a strong Ngati Kuhungunu importance. Ngati Kuhungunu is the local iwi (tribe) traditionally centred in the Hawkes Bay region and also Wairarapa which runs south of the Bay. It’s important to acknowledge the land, the culture and the history and embrace the overall experience as you hike Te Mata. Being surrounded by such rich history makes a hike that much more enjoyable.

Easing Into It

Several of the trails run concurrently and then split at certain points in the park. The trails are clearly marked with their respective colour and you’ll see the red market for the Giant Circuit as you hike. Another fun fact is that the whole of the park is an ‘off leash’ area for dogs. Which is unusual. So don’t be surprised if you’re greeted by a groodle or surprised by a staffy…

Who are those masked hikers?!

TB and I set off counter clockwise and the first section of the trail takes you gently down into a gully, past some great vantage points for views over Havelock North and Hastings.

The shorter trails are all in this initial section which is a densely wooded gully, with lots of lovely twists and turns, and loops back to the carpark. You can start on one colour, intersect with another and take a new direction. They myriad of trail colours on the main map brings a sense of anticipation of what may unfold.

TIP

Take advantage of short trails and circuits to introduce hiking to your family, your kids, friends or colleagues. Short hikes of 2km or less are not so intimidating and give hikers the chance to try new equipment, clothing or shoes with minimal risk. My son loved bush walks when he was young – it gave him the opportunity to express his sense of adventure and be “in charge” of our destination.

The Big Redwoods (Te Hau Valley)

About 1.6km into your hike, welcome to the Big Redwoods copse.

The redwoods were planted almost 100 years ago and make for an ethereal section of the Circuit. They provide natural shade and you’ll see some cute huts and lean-tos made by kids playing in the area. The Te Mata Park website mentions the Redwood copse being used for weddings, events and even plays! When you enter it, the vibe is rather incredible.

If you continue walking in a general southerly direction toward the opposite side of the redwood copse and keep your eyes peeled, you’ll spot the Giant Circuit red marker. You will feel its taking you away from the park and into farmland, and you’d be somewhat correct. Part of Te Mata Park is farmland. Complete with sheep. And fences. And more sheep.

The Gully

So far, the Giant Circuit was a gentle, pleasant hike. TB and I were walking, chatting and enjoying the outdoors. Our pace was pretty quick as the terrain was mostly either downhill or flat.

The beauty of walking in New Zealand is the incredible terrain scupted by eons of volcanic activity. A bird’s eye view of Te Mata Park shows the land pushed together like ruffled fabric, resulting in rugged peaks and valleys. Think Lord of the Rings! Hiking in these areas means you’re either on the top of a peak, or walking along the floor of a valley, or traversing between the two.

Had studied my maps more closely, I would have realised where the gully was heading. And possibly turned around…

TIP

I always take a photo of the information panel when I arrive at a hike. Regardless of mobile coverage, I then have a photo of the map which I can blow up and scrutinise at my leisure. I also take a print copy of the trail map. Call me old fashioned but a printout is a great backup.

‘Snakes and Ladders’

You will arrive at the base of the Snakes and Ladders about 4.5km into the hike. Now I’m not sure of the origin of the name, I remember reading somewhere that the park ranger who created the track named it – and TBH – you need a ladder to get up the blimmin thing! It actually starts off quite gently, and after all, the hillside was scattered with sheep, how hard could it be?

It’s about now I will apologise. I didn’t take many photos from here, I was concentrating more on the track, my feet and balancing….then recovering!

It’s a steep, sharp switchback climb up the side of the largest peak in the Park. This track takes you up the southern face to the Summit, where the views are unrivalled.

Here’s where things got a bit hairy. I’m not amazing with heights. You know that prickly, hot, clammy feeling you get in your hands and feet? Yep, that’s me.

As the track narrowed from a comfortable width down to one that was only about 25cm wide, I knew I was going to struggle. Thankfully it didn’t phase TB at all. One of us kept her cool…

So, I didn’t look back/down, and used the vegetation to balance my climb. I think I zoomed up this section in a time to rival an Olympic runner. I just wanted it over and done with.

TIP

If you find yourself on a section of a hike that you’re not comfortable with, take a moment to centre yourself and make a decision to focus forward. If you don’t like super steep climbs and feel nervous, focus upward, and lean into the track. I use strong vegetation as a tool to balance. Not to pull myself up, but as reassurance that I’m grounded and stable. KEEP MOVING!! The hill isn’t going to get any smaller and you magically won’t float to the top. Every step forward is an achievement and when you’re done – breathe…

Summit and Saddle Lookout

The view from the Summit almost made Snakes and Ladders worth it. If you google Te Mata, most of the imagery is from this vantage point. This is why hikers and trekkers LOVE New Zealand. It was quite windy on the day TB and I hiked, so be prepared for some gusts as you walk along the Summit toward the Saddle. There is also a carpark at the Summit, so don’t be surprised when you heave yourself over the last couple of rocks, you are greeted by five curious tourists watching your efforts. The view from the Saddle Lookout is again – spectacular. You’re on the homeward section now, so spend a moment, have a sip of water and drink in the vista. *boomtish*

CAUTION

The section of track from the Summit to the Saddle Lookout runs adjacent to the road. Don’t be tempted to walk on the road (as many day-trippers do). You’ll be competing for space with a constant flow of cars going both ways. Enjoy walking on the track and continue with your Giant Circuit hike.

Interesting to see that the road really hasn’t changed in 100 years….

A Quick Peek at Peak House

The final section from Saddle Lookout to the Main Gate Car Park takes you through a lovely wooded area and past Peak House. Built as a destination venue in the late 1960’s, Peak House now offers coffee, meals and in the afternoons, a great bar and live music. As you can imagine, the views from their balcony make that glass of Clearview Reserve Chardonnay taste divine.

Nope, I didn’t stop but maybe next time…

After two hours of walking, climbing, sheer panic and recovery, TB and I arrived back at the car.

This is a great circuit to hike, not for the fainthearted (or those a little bit unsure of cliff faces) however the sense of achievement is worth the push.

Pat yourself on the back, you’ve just completed a fantastic hike, enjoyed the outdoors, perhaps tried some new gear for the first time. You’ve definitely done your steps for the day and embraced the experience.

Love and thanks to my bestest hiking buddy TB – and see you next time out on the trails.

PJ.