Urban Hikes – A 9km Autumn Wander in Cornall Park

As the crisp bite of autumn rolls into Tamaki Makaurau (Auckland), there’s no better time to lace up your boots and head for one of the city’s most iconic walks, the loop through Cornwall Park and up to the summit of Maungakiekie, also known as One Tree Hill. The leaves are putting on their best autumn fashion show, there’s a gentle crunch underfoot and the sheep are living their best lives, like they own the place, which to be fair they kinda do.

Cornwall Park in autumn is pure magic. Towering oaks, sycamores and liquid ambers are bursting into colour, paths wind past stone walls, grassy knolls and the occasional moo or baa remind you that you’re sharing the space with a range of original inhabitants. It’s a country getaway, minus the traffic, petrol costs and inevitable car snack disaster.

I started my 9km morning hike in Epsom and walked the quiet streets to an entry point for Cornwall Park, hidden away in a suburban cul-de-sac. Let Google Maps show you where you can walk, it’s surprising what pops up. Approaching the formal entrance to the park proper is rather imposing, with the liberal use of volcanic rock to welcome you.

The real climb befgins as you head toward One Tree Hill, and yes the name is a bit misleading these days. Maungaekiekie is not just a pretty volcano, it’s a place steeped in history and cultural weight. It was once home to one of the largest Maori pa sites in the region, with evidence of terracing and fortifications still etched into its slopes. Ngati Awa and later, Ngati Watua call this maunga home, and standing up there, you can still feel its mana.

Pano view from the top – rather amazing morning

And the tree? That’s a story. The original totara was felled in the 1800s. A Monterey pine replaced it, standing proudly (if controversially) for decades until it was removed in 2000 after being damaged during protests. These days, the hilltop is mostly treeless, but the obelisk still stands tall, a monument to Maori, commissioned by Sir John Logan Campbell, who also donated the land that became Cornwall Park.

Speaking of legacy, don’t miss Acacia Cottage, nestled near the park’s main gates. It’s the oldest surviving wooden building in Auckland, built by Campbell himself in 1841. Stepping inside is just like walking into a time capsule, you can imagine what life might’ve looked like back when your sourdough came from necessity, not a pandemic hobby! It’s a perfect mid-hike break to soak up some settler history.

What makes this hike even better? It’s urban. No need to travel to the ends of the earth to get your nature fix. Urban hiking is the unsung hero of weekend adventures. It’s cheap, it’s close, and it comes with actual toilets, albeit disguised! You get the buzz of discovery without the panic of getting lost in the bush. And let’s be honest, exploring your own backyard feels good. It’s grounding. It reminds you that beauty, history and a bit of exercise are all within reach.

So, if you’re after a hike with heart, heritage and a side of sheep, pop this one on your list. Bring a mate, bring your dog (on lead please, the cows are sensitive), and enjoy the simple magic of walking where the city meets the sky.

Like the hike? You’ll love this one. See you next time out on the trails.

PJ.

The Top Six Reasons Why You Need to Take a Hike – Literally!

How Hiking Can Fix Your Brain and Your Mood

Let’s face it, when someone says, “Let’s go for a hike”, your brain might conjure up idyllic images of mountaintop vistas, birds chirping, gentle breezes in the trees and your social feed blowing up with likes. Meanwhile, your legs are filing a formal complaint. But don’t let the prospect of sore calves fool you. Hiking isn’t just good for your quads and glutes; it’s also a mental health miracle worker. Here are my top six psychological benefits of hiking – and why you should lace up those boots and hit the trails, even if you’re convinced you’re really more “indoorsy”.

1. Nature is Basically a Mood Booster on Steroids

Ever notice how being in nature makes your problems feel as insignificant as a mosquito’s opinion? That’s because exposure to greenery reduces cortisol (a.k.a. the stress hormone) faster than that mosquito will get you. Studies show that spending time in nature can help alleviate anxiety, depression and stress. It’s like therapy, but cheaper – and with fewer awkward silences.

Plus, lets be honest: trees don’t judge you.

Chilling with a coffee in Lamington National Park

2. It’s Meditation But with Better Scenery

Hiking is basically meditation for people who hate sitting still. Yep – that’s me! The rhythmic act of putting one foot in front of the other helps quiet your mind, while the ever-changing scenery keeps your brain from checking out. Bonus: unlike that perfect yoga instructor you went to for a while, the mountains and trails won’t annoyingly suggest you “focus on your breathing“…

Gold Coast hinterland, Berlin, Brisbane, Hawkes Bay and Coffs Harbour..some of my favourite meditations!

Trail time also encourages mindfulness. You’ll find yourself tuning into the sound of rustling leaves, the feel of the ground beneath your boots or the sunrise over the hills. Maybe it’s the distant sound of a stream bubbling away or the earthy smell of eucalyptus after rain. Hiking immerses you in the present moment, making it easier to leave your worries behind – and reminding you that sometimes, the journey is actually the reward.

3. It Sparks Creativity (even if you’re not an artsy type)

If you’ve ever needed a fresh perspective on life – or just a clever caption for your hiking selfies – hiking is your creative catalyst. Studies show that spending time outdoors can boost creative problem-solving by up to 50%. Something about all that fresh air and Vitamin D makes your brain go, “Oh hey, I have ideas!”

A contemplative break on the Ships Stern Circuit on Gold Coast

So, the next time you’re feeling uninspired or stuck on a personal project, grab your boots and head out for a hike. Worst case? You’ll return with a fresh outlook. Best case? You’ll stumble upon a stunning view, an Icelandic volcano, or a quirky wildlife encounter that sparks your imagination.

4. It Builds Confidence (and Muscles)

There’s nothing quite like summiting a hill – or even surviving a particularly muddy or difficult trail section – to make you feel like an absolute legend. Hiking challenges you mentally and physically, pushing you out of your comfort zone. Every step you take (cue The Police) reinforces your resilience, reminding you that you’re more capable than you think.

And if the trail beats you this time? Don’t worry. You’ll have an epic story about how you heroically wrestled with nature (or at least your bootlaces). Maybe you’ll remember the time you climbed Heartbreak Hill on the Kokoda Challenge despite every muscle screaming for a break or how you navigated through ever-diminishing daylight after 8 hours on Kumano Kodo like the determined explorer you are.

These moments remind you that overcoming challenges – big or small – is always worth it.

5. It’s Social – But in a Chill Way

Hiking with friends is like a group chat, but with fewer emojis and more meaningful conversations. The shared experience of conquering a trail together strengthens bonds and creates memories you will fondly recall for years. (Like the time when you took the ‘shortcut’ that added two hours and 5km onto your hike!)

Even solo hikers get a social boost. The hiking community is surprisingly friendly, and fellow hikers will smile, nod, or share a quick chat about trail conditions. Sometimes, you’ll find yourself swapping stories with strangers at a scenic overlook, united by the simple joy of the journey. It’s humanity at it’s best – refreshingly kind, genuine, and far removed from the digital noise of your daily life.

6. Your Gateway to Travel and Adventure

I could never have dreamed 10 years ago that I would hike in as many countries as I have. Hiking isn’t just about local trails; it’s a gateway to travel and adventure. You get to explore different landscapes and meet a diverse range of people. From seasoned hikers sharing stories to locals offering tips about hidden gems, every encounter enriches your experience

Travelling for hiking also broadens your horizons, literally and figuratively. Whether you’re trekking along 1,000-year-old monk trails in Japan or scaling a volcano in Iceland, each new trail is a cultural and personal discovery. Plus, nothing bonds people faster than getting lost together or making it to the end of the hike intact and before sunset!

So, Why Should You Try Hiking?

Sure, hiking involves sweat, blisters, discomfort and the occasional “why am I doing this” moment.

But, the psychological benefits far outweigh the temporary irritation. It’s a workout for your body and a holiday for your mind. Plus, it gives you an excuse to wear that $350 rain jacket you impulsively bought on sale at the end of summer!

So go ahead: embrace the experience (and the great outdoors). Your brain will thank you.

See you out on the trails.

PJ 🙂

Drink Like a Pro – How to Survive a Day Hike Without Becoming a Human Raisin!

So, you’ve decided to join an amazing group of individuals and conquer the great outdoors. Good for you! Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or the kind who thinks taking the rubbish out in the dark counts as “adventuring”, there’s one thing everyone needs to get right: HYDRATION.

But not all liquids are created equal, and what you sip can make or break your hike. Let’s dive into the world of liquids that will keep you going – and maybe even help you survive the great outdoors (or at least look impressive while you’re out there).

1. Water – The Classic Companion

First things first, let’s talk about water. It’s reliable, classic, and does exactly what it says on the label – keeps you hydrated. No surprise here; it’s your go-to liquid for a day-long hike and not negotiable.

My water pack is totally worth the investment!

But let’s be honest, water can be boring. It’s the liquid equivalent of a first aid kit – practical and essential but not exactly the life of the party. I will say, though, when I hiked the Kokoda Challenge for 15 hours, plain cold water transformed into the nectar of the gods.

PRO TIPS

  • Take at least 2 litres of water for a full-day hike. A single 500ml bottle just won’t cut it.
  • Fancy it up with an infuser. Throw in some mint, lemon, or cucumber slices, and you’ll be the poshest person on the trail. Your fellow hikers might roll their eyes, but hey, at least your water won’t taste like, well, water.

2. Electrolyte Drinks: The Athlete’s Secret Weapon

Yep, hiking is definitely a sport, and electrolytes are like water’s smarter, more athletic cousin. When you’re sweating buckets and feeling like you’re auditioning for The Survivor, your body loses more than just water – it loses electrolytes. These are the little ions responsible for things like muscle function and energy. A big deal, actually.

Look for sports drinks like Gatorade or Powerade, or go for a tablet or powder you can add to water on the go or before you start.

PRO TIPS

  • Don’t take electrolytes INSTEAD of water. Take both. For longer hikes, I use a dual bladder from Kathmandu. Epic game changer.
  • Watch sugar content. Some sports drinks are basically sugar disguised as ‘performance enhancers’. You don’t want to crash 45 minutes into your hike because your electrolyte drink is a lolly in liquid form.

3. Tea and Coffee: Could be the Buzz that Backfires

Ahhhhh, coffee. The liquid motivation that gets me out of bed, into my hiking boots, and out the door. Tea is also a very civilised choice for a little caffeine kick. BUT – and this is a big BUT – these liquids have a dark side. Caffeine is a diuretic, which means it will have you looking for the nearest bush more than once.

However, I run the gauntlet because I LOVE a coffee break on a day hike. And, let’s be honest, hiking must be about what you enjoy. I found a fantastic little thermos in Japan when hiking Kumano Kodo, and I’m now a devotee of coffee whenever and wherever I hike. I’ve made peace with the fact that a quick wee behind a tree is all part of the fun.

Say hello to my two coffee carriers…blue and green!

4. Coconut Water: The Trendy but Worthy Pick

Coconut water is like the Insta influencer of hydration. It’s everywhere, it looks incredible, and it swears it will change your life. But surprisingly, it’s not just a fad. Coconut water is rich in potassium and electrolytes, making it a decent option for rehydrating on the go.

PRO TIPS

  • It’s not going to quench a heavy thirst like water or a sports drink. It’s more like a bonus drink – the one when you’re taking a breather and feeling a bit extra.
  • I really don’t like lukewarm coconut water; it’s like drinking…blerk. Get yourself some 300ml sizes, freeze them, and enjoy them on the trail once they’ve thawed. They can also keep food cool – how clever is that!

5. Soup: Yep Soup!

You didn’t misread me. Soup can actually be an incredible hiking liquid, especially if you’re trekking in cooler climates. Imagine you’re halfway through your hike, and instead of slurping boring old water, you pull out a thermos of warm, savoury goodness. Hydration and calories in one go – you can thank me later 😉

PRO TIPS

  • I would recommend avoiding chunky soups; blended soups are best. There’s nothing worse than a log jam in the thermos as you try to shake it out and end up wearing it.
  • Watch temperatures. My little Japanese thermos is a beast for keeping fluids at entry temperature, so don’t pack a scalding soup – go for soup on the warm side; otherwise, you won’t be drinking it until you’re driving home.

6. Avoid Soft Drinks or Sugar Fixes

You might be tempted to chuck a fizzy drink or energy shot into your pack, but hold your horses. Soft drinks are loaded with sugar, which leads to an energy spike and inevitable crash, usually at the worst moment. Imagine being halfway up a mountain and realising you have the energy of a sloth in slow motion.

As for energy drinks? Unless you want your heart racing faster than a Swiftie with a VIP meet and greet pass – leave those at home. Save the heart-pounding excitement for when you see that “danger cliff edge” sign.

Te Mata Peak in New Zealand, now that’s a cliff edge!

Wrapping It Up: Hydrate or Hike NOT

So, water is your MVP, but a bit of variety (electrolytes, coconut water, soup) can spice things up – without turning you into a mobile sugar factory. Plan ahead, sip smartly, and your hike will be a great memory rather than a nightmare.

I’m keen to hear what you think your ‘ride or die’ hydration options are when you’re out hiking, comment below and lets see what new ideas we can come up with 🙂

See you out on the trails, and may your bottle never run dry.

PJ

Urban Hikes #2 – Views and Volcano Blues on Mt Eden

Hello and welcome to Like the Hike, a blog written by yours truly giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking as much as I do. Today we’re talking about urban hiking. Back in the day, I did a blog on urban hiking in Sydney, covering some great options. We are in Auckland, New Zealand this time – bring it on!

If you’re in Auckland and your idea of exercise is strolling from the couch to the fridge, it’s time to shake things up. Let me introduce you to urban hiking, the hybrid sport where you’re as likely to dodge coffee-carrying commuters as you are to admire distant scenic vistas. And what better place to try it than the iconic Mt Eden, a 5-6km round trip guaranteed to get your heart pumping and your socials popping.

The Lowdown on Mt Eden (or Maungawhau if you’re up for a bit of bilingual education)

Mt Eden/Maungahwau isn’t just a bump on the Auckland skyline; it’s a literal high point, being the city’s tallest natural elevation at 196 metres. This extinct volcano – yes, Auckland is basically a city built on geological firecrackers – has a history as rich as your post-hike flat white (that’s a latte in Aotearoa).

The Maori name for Mt Eden, Maungawhau, means “Mountain of the Whau Tree”. The summit crater, affectionately called Te Ipu-a-Mataaho (“Bowl of Mataaho”), was formed by volcanic activity around 28,000 years ago. In pre-pakeha times, it was a bustling Maori settlement housing several hundred people, with terraced garden, food storage pits and fortified living spaces. Today, its a protected archaeological and culturally significant site – so no, you can’t dig for treasure but you can marvel at it’s natural grandeur and incredible views.

The Urban Hiking Experience

Urban hiking is like regular hiking, but with bonus features: public bathrooms, nearby bakeries and zero chance of encountering a snake or a spider (unless you count the suited ones on their way to work!). Mt Eden’s foot print is perfect for city slickers, runners and hikers who want to channel their inner explorer without sacrificing wifi.

The trail I took winds through suburban streets, tree lined paths and a winding track that circles its way up the mount to the summit. There are a number of access points to get into the reserve, I took the one with about 4 flights of stairs from Glenfell Place. That’s the red bit in my tracking! Along the way you’ll spot everything from joggers to locals walking their highly enthusiastic dogs. The ascent is steep enough to feel accomplished but mercifully short…you can see that in the red and yellow sections!

Why You’ll Love It

  1. Views that WOW – at the summit, you’re rewarded with 360 panoramic views of Auckland, including Waitemata Harbour, Rangitoto Island, a plethora of extinct volcanos and the city skyline. It’s like Mother Nature’s way of saying “thanks for sweating“.
  2. History on Tap – as you explore the summit, you’ll literally be walking through centuries of history and cultural richness. The Maungawhau Visitor Experience Centre is also worth a recce after you’ve finished at the crater.
  3. Fitness without the Fuss – forget treadmills and fluro gym lighting. Urban hiking lets you burn calories while soaking up sunshine and fresh air (remember your hat!). Both are scientifically proven to improve your mood, or at least make you less grumpy about steep hills.
  4. Cafe Proximity – end your adventure with a well deserved treat at one of the local cafes. Nothing says “hiker’s reward” like a flaky croissant and a flat white.

Tips for First Timers

Pick your Footwear – you probably don’t need to wear hiking boots, I prefer a hybrid shoe or sturdy sneaker for urban hikes, still supportive but not too inflexible.

Wear Layers – Auckland’s weather changes faster than a TikTok trend, so be prepared for sun, wind and rain, all probably in the same hour.

Respect the Significance of the Land – Mt Eden/Maungawhau is a strongly sacred site, or a wahi tapu. The crater is especially significant, so stick to the marked paths and enjoy the views. This isn’t a race, it’s a walk….with style.

Enjoy your Surrounds – urban hiking isn’t just about the mountains or the reserves, it’s also about the scenery along the way. Seek out interesting architecture, buildings or streets. I found the Governors Residence and a lovely old house with stone maori carvings…quite special.

Final Thoughts

Hiking around Mt Eden is proof that adventure doesn’t have to involve remote wilderness or epic gear. In fact, a hike of just 5.8km is more than satisfying, it’s downright enjoyable. Sometimes, all you need is a good pair of sneakers, a sense of curiosity and a willingness to sweat a little.

So, lace up, hydrate, slap on sunscreen and a hat, and get ready to like the hike. Who knows, you may even fall in love with it 😉

See you out on the trails

PJ

Ships Ahoy and Ticks Galore!

Tackling the Ships Stern Circuit in Lamington National Park

Ahoy fellow hikers! Welcome back to another grand adventure, this time exploring one of Queensland’s treasures – the 20km Ships Stern Circuit in Lamington National park. A mere 70 minute hop from the Gold Coast, this park is part of the majestic Gondwana Rainforest, covering over 366,500 hectares of pure hiking heaven.

I’ve dallied with parts of Ships Stern before but never braved the full 20km loop. Well, today was the day! What could possibly go wrong, right? Spoiler alert: I didn’t anticipate the unseasonable heat, or the final unwelcome hitchhiker.

First Stage: Downward Delight (And Spiderweb Swords)

Being the clever clogs that I am, I arrived before 5.30am and parked at the top of the park near the Binna Burra Cafe, giving me an easy downhill finish to the hike. Plus, with a forecast of over 33 degrees Celsius, I wanted to beat the midday heat.

The first part of the trail was a lovely, gentle descent, perfect for soaking up the early morning rays….and as it turns out, spiderwebs. Oh, the webs! I became an impromptu samurai, waving a stick to fend off what felt like an entire arachnid population weaving across the trail! Note to self -arriving early means you get the fresh webs, lucky me.

At about 1.5km in I hit my first dry creek crossing and took in the beautiful views from Koolanbilba Lookout. The trail became steeper as I continued, but I couldn’t help pausing at a natural cave around the 2.6km mark. Who else had sheltered her over the centuries? I felt like an explorer uncovering new lands and treasures – until I remembered I was actually just sweaty and armed with a samurai spider-stick.

Second Stage: Snakes, Sticks and Stunning Views

By the time I hit the 6.5km mark, I started the uphill slog. Let’s be real, I was a little nervous that the rest of the hike might be all uphill from here – but hey, what’s life without a a challenge?

As I trudged upward, the trail opened up to spectacular valley views with grassy vistas, and I swapped my cobweb stick for a snake stick. in Queensland’s spring heat, snakes are out and about looking for love. Fortunately I only encountered one tine brown snake and it slithered away quicker than I could say, “NOPE!”

At 8.5km, I arrived at Charraboomba Rock, a stunning rocky outcrop with heart-stopping stairs that cling to the edge of the cliff. Heights aren’t my thing so I skipped this side adventure. Brave souls, you’re on your own for that one! I still had amazing views, so all was well.

Third Stage: Cliff Views and Cliffhangers

At 10km I found a perfect log for my snack break. Just me, my salad wrap, chocolate bar, and the valley stretching out below. I took the opportunity to spray myself liberally with insect repellent, than goodness for that decision as the next part of this tale will reveal!

Feeling refreshed, I set off again, only to find the second stunning lookout just 500m later. Could’ve had my breakfast with an even better view, but oh well! I had a sit and a look, and then continued along the trail, enjoying the breath-taking scenery and the stillness of the morning completely to myself. So far, I had not seen another soul on the trail – a very special experience.

By now I was halfway through the circuit and starting the long trek back. Around the 13km mark, I began the final ascent. I knew that the last 2km would be downhill, but getting there was a sweaty grind – happily the views made it worthwhile.

At 15km I took a breather at Nagarigoon Falls – the only ‘falling’ waterfall I found. Not a huge amount of water, but hey, it was still peaceful and pretty.

Fourth Stage: The Downhill Stretch (And… The Incident)

Finally, I reached the marker for the Border Track and the start of the downhill section, just 2.3km to my car, and more importantly, a flat white at the Binna Burra Café. With gravity on my side, I happily trotted along, oblivious to the horror that awaited me.

With around 1km to go, my backpack strap started to feel…odd. The right hand side was digging in, and no amount of adjusting seemed to help. But I pressed on, keen to finish. It wasn’t until I got back to the car that I discovered the truth.

Fifth Stage: THE TICK (Cue Dramatic Music)

Back at the car, sipping my well earned coffee, the discomfort in the front of my right shoulder was getting worse. What was going on? I checked the area, and there it was. A massive black tick, wriggling happily away like it was at a buffet.

My photographic skills right handed without glasses!

I’ll spare you the gruesome details (yeah nah), but let’s just say that tick had dug in DEEP. With a 70 minute drive home, I had to resist the urge to yank it out, knowing full well you can’t just pull a tick out without risking leaving its head – and its toxins – behind. I emptied a half a can of insect spray on the little bugger and called my sister (a.k.a. tick removal expert). After a tense tweezer-tugging session at her place, the tick was out, intact, and my armpit was back to normal the next day. Crisis averted!

Final Thoughts

Tick drama aside, Ships Stern Circuit was another incredible experience. Stunning views, varied terrain and a good mix of challenge and fun.

Just remember – pack extra insect repellent, watch out for snakes and always, always check for ticks!!

See you out on the trails…

PJ

The One Where A Girl Went Up the Side of an Icelandic Volcano…!

Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips, and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

VELKOMINN TIL ISLANDS! We’re in Iceland! Land of fire and ice, home to huldufolk, Bjork, the cod wars, glaciers, puffins, $25 glasses of wine (!), and whales.

One of our destinations was the island town of Vestmannaeyjar. Located off the southern coast of Iceland, Vestmannaeyjar is a small fishing town on the island of Heimaey, and completely unremarkable except for an incident in 1973 that made global headlines and firmly planted this small island on the tourist map forever.

Before we get into the hike – and yes, I really did hike up and down a live volcano – a bit of context about Heimaey. It’s part of a group of 15 islands and has about 5,000 residents. Believe it or not, this makes Vestmannaeyjar the 12th most populous place in Iceland, given the total population is only 380,000, and 140,000 of those live in the capital Reykjavik.

Heimaey was settled sometime in the 9th century and has remained populated since then, despite losing large numbers of residents to a Turkish pirate raid in 1627 and then the inevitable disease and infant mortality in the 18th century.

Fast forward to January 1973.

Without any warning, an eruption started in the early hours of 23 January and completely destroyed about 60% of the town. Half the houses disappeared under a lava flow, and almost all of the residents were evacuated to the nearby mainland. Bad weather the previous week meant the fishing fleet was in port, miraculous indeed as this enabled the residents to be moved to safety. Amazingly, only one resident died during the eruption. Our local guide advised that the person had broken into a local pharmacy during the eruption and died from noxious fumes after lingering too long…. eek!

The eruption was declared over by July 1973, when the massive cleanup operation commenced. 300 houses had gone under the lava field, and the rest of the town was covered in thick black ash.

The result of the eruption was the creation of a brand new volcano called Eldfell (hill of fire). Eldfell recently turned 50 years old, so is younger than yours truly! The eruption and resulting lava flow increased the island size by about 20% and completely changed the coastline, pushing into the sea before finally cooling.

Eldfell was our hiking destination – I was going to climb an active volcano!!!

About 20 of us started but that number dropped quickly when the incline of the hike became apparent. We started at the port with our guide taking us past the edge of the lava field, pretty much where the residents were able to stop the lava flow by pumping sea water at it for over 4 months, via huge pumps provided by the US military.

The main export of Heimaey is fish, but not just for eating. The town manufactures fish oil, and also artificial skin for grafting – all from fish skin! Absolutely fascinating – if you can stand the smell of the factory 😦

We started upward past what was once the town swimming pool and water supply, now under 10m of lava field. The eruption destroyed much of the island’s small forest, which has been replanted. However, due to such a short growing season, it’s taking a while to get reforested. There’s a saying in Iceland, if you get lost in the forest, just stand up 🙂

The day was cold but clear and the sun provided some relief from the biting wind. I was pleased the hike was heading uphill – it gave me a good chance to warm up.

I really struggled to wrap my head around the fact that before January 1973, the landscape we were hiking through didn’t exist. It’s not like the volcano was there before and erupted….nope. Before 1973 it was fields, a dairy farm, and houses. The volcano literally came up out of the earth and grew.

The hiking terrain quickly changed from grass and vegetation to red volcanic rubble. Every now and again little bits of vegetation were present, but it was pretty much barren. It really did feel like we were hiking on the moon. the trail switched back and forth up the side of the volcano and then trekked along the crests. Some parts were a little narrow, but I found that if I kept my head down and focussed on the path, the edges were less scary. Some readers may recall that I really don’t like hiking along cliff edges, it’s not the fear of heights, it’s the fear of falling… 🙂

Two cairns marked the start of the final climb. I could see our destination across the valley and the silhouettes of a couple of hikers right up the top – eeek! It seemed like quite a long way and 200m doesn’t sound that bad until you have to hike it.

After a lot of huffing and puffing, we made it to the top – kinda. There was a stone marker and a bit of flat space to stand and look at the amazing views, and the original inactive Heimaey volcano called Helgafell.

What the photo on the right shows very clearly, is the original coastline to the right, and the new land on the left created by the lava flow….quite incredible.

We then walked along the final quite narrow crest to a section of the volcano where the ground remains warm – confirming we were on an active volcano! Our lovely guide told us that until recently, his party trick was to drop a piece of paper into one of the fissures at the top of the volcano and it would burst into flames. Imagine his disappointment when one day – no fire…! Eldfell is slowly cooling down, but we still felt the warmth in the ground. Thankfully the weather held and the views from the top were pretty amazing.

FUN FACT

The island to the right in the photo is called Ellioaey and is meme famous for being the loneliest place on earth. However – it’s not in the “middle of nowhere” and it’s not “Bjork’s old home” nor has it been “empty for 100 years” and definitely not “built by a billionaire to escape a zombie invasion”– it’s a lodge that can be booked for weekend getaways, and as you can see, it’s literally within spitting distance from Heimaey. Myth busted!

It was time to start the downward journey. Funnily enough, downhill is actually harder than uphill. We were hiking on volcanic scree (little stones) and it made the path quite slippery. More than one person took a backward tumble onto their butts!

I have mentioned this before, but there is a knack to hiking downhill, especially if you’re on loose gravel. If you tilt every so slightly forward from your waist, and just go a little bit faster than normal, your centre of gravity stays marginally in front, so rather than your feet slipping out from under you (and you ending up on your butt) you tend to stay upright. Trust me – it works!

We weren’t going down the trail we came up, We deviated to the southern side of the volcano as our destination was Eldheimar – a museum dedicated to the Eldfell eruption. At the museum, there were a couple of partially excavated homes, and our guide dropped a bombshell. One of the homes belonged to his foourafi (grandfather)!! Very personal.

Our hike then looped back into town and down to the port. We saw markers for lava flow, where the side of a street was destroyed, and the other side untouched. We covered about 7km and it was worth every chilly and windy step!

Some of the most interesting hikes emerge from the unlikeliest of places, and our hike up Eldfell was exactly that. If you choose to be a traveller, rather than a tourist, you will discover some amazing opportunities and experiences. Being open is the key.

As you saw above, Mr PJ was along for the hike and loved it. There was a bit of grumbling about the climb, but that quickly evaporated with the amazing views.

As Icelandic folk say to describe a really great experience…..rusinan I pylsuendanum….. have fun unpicking that one!

See you out on the trails

PJ 🙂

Two Scottish Isles, Two Hikes, Two Days – Can It Be Done??

Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips, and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

I’m a week into my holiday exploring the islands of England Scotland and Iceland. I have the opportunity to hike on not one BUT TWO SCOTTISH ISLES! I only have a short window to accomplish this and I’m pretty sure I can pull it off so let’s get into it.

So, this is where I am. What I understand to be the Inner Hebrides, a cluster of islands off the west coast of Scotland. The two isles in question are Mull and Iona.

The Isle of Mull sits northwest of Glasgow and is well known for the capital fishing village of Tobermory (Wombles anyone… 😉 ) and a single malt whisky distillery conveniently located about 120m from the pier. It’s green, lush, inviting, home to 1,000 people, and gives off a cosy, welcoming vibe.

The Isle of Iona is completely different in every way. It sits about 125km southwest of Tobermory, right on the western tip of Mull. It’s a tiny isle, no more than 5km long and 1.5km wide. Home to less than 17o residents and the world-famous Iona Nunnery and Abbey, it’s stark, windswept, and hauntingly beautiful. Standoffish but when you get to know it – unforgettable.

DAY ONE MORNING – Hiking the Isle of Mull

Welcome to Tobermory 🙂 We landed at the pier of this picture postcard village on the northeastern side of the Isle of Mull. It’s the capital of the island and is instantly recognisable for its brightly painted buildings that line the front of the fishing harbour. Tobermory comes from the Gaelic Tobar Mhoire or Mary’s Well, referring to a well nearby dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

We had a 6km hike that would take us out to the Aros waterfall and explore the harbour front. Rather than hike as part of a group, Mr PJ and I went rogue and decided to do our own thing. Now I wouldn’t usually recommend this, anyone on FB knows what happens to Australian tourists who abandon the cruise excursions and do their own thing…however, the hike was a ‘there and back’ and I was confident that we could manage this in the timeframe given to us.

The trail started at the pier, with an easy set of signs and a map. After a short but sharp climb, we were at the first clifftop and so began a hike that offered view after view after view. We were walking away from the village so every vantage point gave us stunning views back to the village and our ship – Silversea Endeavour.

Tobermory has luscious trees and abundant vegetation with everything in spring bloom. The hike out to the waterfall was just gorgeous. It was mid-morning, the temperature was mild, and the clothing layers came off very quickly. After about 3km we arrived at the waterfall.

It was a series of short, sharp switches up, and then the same back down to the base of the waterfall. If you hike in Australia, you might be used to high, narrow waterfalls. The Aros was wider and less high, but still very lovely to spend a moment or three contemplating.

We went beyond the falls and explored the adjoining camping and facilities area, where I sadly discovered that the toilets were ‘closed until further notice’. This gave the local wildlife an interesting morning show, but when you gotta go, you gotta go! After my unplanned toilet stop, we decided to head back so we were within our deadline for transfer back to the ship.

Now, I’m not a petty person by nature, but….it gave me great pleasure to pass the ship hiking group as they huffed and puffed their way up the hill, walking poles flying in all directions and excursion staff urging them onwards and upwards. You take your joy where and when you find it 🙂

The return section was just as enjoyable as the outward section. We passed trail runners, hikers, walkers with dogs, and a heap of visitors just enjoying the Isle.

We did the hike in good time, but remember, it’s not about the time you take, but the time you spend. 🙂

Tobermory, you turned it on weather wise, hike wise and whisky wise. Oh, we had to stop at the distillery at the end of the hike and sample the wares, it would have been rude not to!

DAY TWO AFTERNOON – Hiking the Isle of Iona

If Tobermory was a soft spring morning, Iona was a wild and exciting afternoon. I could not have picked two more different isles to hike on.

Iona is world famous for the Iona Nunnery and Abbey. It’s one of the oldest Christian centres in Western Europe, with first dated records from about 560AD. It’s home to clan Donald and Macdonald, neither of which are my ancestors. I hail from mainland Scotland, clan Leslie just outside of Aberdeen 🙂

We had a fascinating walk around the Nunnery and the Abbey, then met for the hike traversing the Isle, Yep – traversing the isle! Not for the faint-hearted as we had limited time and a decent distance to travel, so only the fit and feisty were present. We started just outside the Abbey and made our way through the fields. The first thing that struck me as we walked along was the complete absence of any trees. Iona is at the western tip of a series of isles and is exposed to the forces of nature. Any trees on the island would be imported and protected as part of a house garden. There are no trees naturally on Iona, the winds destroy them long before they can take root.

At around the 1.5km mark, the guide took us up a hill to a cluster of stones, originally a hermit cell. It’s an ancient ruin nestled into the side of the hill, built by a devout Christian hermit – or so the legend says. Whether it was built by a hermit or shepherds wanting shelter, the structure is centuries old and pretty special to visit.

The terrain was interesting to traverse. Much of the ground is either boggy or a mixture of reeds and sphagnum moss, which looks dry and stable but is actually full of spring water. So as soon as you step on it, down you go! It caught out a few people wearing sneakers. Not me though, thank you Gore-tex Merrells 😉

To be honest, I found the landscape a little unnerving. If you hike regularly in forests and bush trails, a space devoid of any vegetation higher than your knee is ‘interesting’. There were rocky outcrops covered in lichen and magnificent views down to a grey and menacing sea. The hike was very much about the environment and what we were walking through – very different and visually confronting.

There were gates and stiles to navigate and at about 3km we went over a stile that marked the high point, we were officially in the middle of the island. Occasionally we passed flocks of sheep and their cute little black headed lambs.

Side note – Iona is home to seven crofts (little rented farmlets), two larger farms and over 1,000 native sheep. The wee black headed ones are Suffolk or Scotch Mule breeds. I know this as I may have spent some time pre-hike at the Iona Wool Store in the village. No judgment please, I like to shop and knit. Two for one! It’s that kind of blog.

We made our way downward, and what did we stumble upon but the local golf course! Well, this is Scotland so I’m not surprised. From what I understand, Scotland is first in the world for the most golf courses per capita. The Iona Golf Course is mown by sheep and cattle, free to play on, and has a wicked 14th hole 😉

Downward we went, and soon we arrived at the ocean, wild, grey, and absolutely breathtaking. We had the beach to ourselves, and forget sand, it was pebbles, grass, and sheep poop. Our final 1.2km was a brisk walk down the main (only) road back toward the village and pier.

I was struck yet again by the stark and windswept nature of the isle, and what it might mean for residents. Looking at the houses, they are all built to capture sunlight when possible, everyone has skylights and glass to make the most of daylight. I saw woodpiles for home fires, which must come in via ferry as there are no forests or trees on the isle.

Such a beautiful and awe-inspiring land to walk across, such a pleasure, such a privilege.

Just a fraction under 6km to hike across an island – pretty cool! The village’s name is Baile Mor… which means big town. It’s not…

So I did it, two Scottish Isle hikes in two days. WOOOOOOOHOOOOO!

Not the longest of hikes if you read some of my previous blogs, but definitely up there in terms of uniqueness and enjoyment.

The Scottish Isles offer such a range of experiences and opportunities, for all budgets, all mobilities, and all persons. I can absolutely recommend them as a destination for anyone wanting to simultaneously lose and discover themselves hiking. Have a look at visitscotland.com for more info.

See you soon out on the Icelandic trails!

PJ 🙂

Backpack Hacks: What You Really Need for a No-Regret Day Hike

Ahhh, the day hike. Nature’s cure for office chair back pain, screen-induced headaches and that nagging feeling that you’ve forgotten how the sun feels on your face. But there’s one tiny hurdle between you and hiking bliss: packing your backpack. Some might think, “its just a few hours, how hard can it be?” Well, let me tell you, it’s a lot harder than it seems if you’re the newbie who brought sunnies, a phone and no water.

Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or just fancy a stroll up and down a few hills, packing the right gear is key. So, let’s dive into the essential items every hiker should pack, and, equally important, the rookie mistakes you want to avoid.

1. Water: Your Best Friend

It sounds obvious, but you’d be surprised how many people underestimate their water needs. A good rule of thumb is to pack at least two litres for a moderate day hike. Add more if you’re hiking in summer, or on a challenging trail.

Hydration bladders are great because they fit snugly into your pack and you can sip as you hike without stopping. I have a 2L single, and a 2 x 1L double, both from Kathmandu. With the tubing conveniently on my backpack strap, I can rehydrate whenever I feel like it.

Rookie Mistake – Thinking a bottle of water is enough for an all day hike. It’s not. Unless you’re Bear Grylls and are prepared to drink from a dirty old stream, pack extra.

2. Snacks: Fuel for the Soul (and the legs)

Nothing says “I’m one with nature” like eating a protein snack bar halfway up a mountain. Seriously though, hiking burns calories and unless you enjoy that rumbling feeling on the way back to the car, pack plenty of snacks. Think nuts, fruit, highly dense protein and carb options that will keep you full. Even a good old sandwich does the trick.

snack time on the trail!

Rookie Mistake – forgetting snacks altogether, or worse, packing snacks that are highly fragile or perishable. I once packed sushi (which I thought was a great choice). Nope. It disintegrated during the hike because of the rough trail….! Stick to non-perishables that won’t turn into a science experiment by midday.

3. First Aid Kit: For when Nature Fights Back

You might think,” it’s only a day hike, I won’t need a first aid kit.” And that’s exactly when you’ll get a blister the size of a $1 coin, get poked in the head by a nasty branch, or discover the joys of a tick bite. A basic kit should include bandaids, wipes, painkillers or anti-imflammatories. Trust me, the one time you don’t pack it will be the time you trip over that rock and wish you had.

Rookie Mistake – Thinking a first aid kit is for “serious” hikes only. Even a short trail can deliver some nasty surprises (hello trips, falls and ticks)

4. Navigation Tools: GPS and Maps

You may be thinking, “I have my phone, why would I need a map?” Well, my friend, phone batteries die, GPS signals drop, and then there you are, lost in the wilderness, trying to find the Wi-Fi password of the nearest tree. Maps are lightweight and definitely don’t need charging.

Rookie Mistake – relying solely on your phone for navigation. Fun fact, phones don’t always work in the middle of nowhere and no, your phone flashlight doesn’t count as a backup plan.

5. Clothing: Playing the Weather Guessing Game

Here’s a fun game nature likes to spring on hikers. It’s called “Guess What the Weather Will Do Next!” You’ll be sweating one moment and freezing the next, so layers are your best friend. Pack a lightweight waterproof jacket and bring an extra layer for warmth. Even on warm days, the temperature can drop, especially at higher elevations. I’ve been hiking along a ridge in Binna Burra and gone from a t-shirt to a jumper, beanie, gloves and jacket within 2km and 20 minutes.

Contents of my backpack for a 40km hiking challenge in winter in Queensland. The mint green mound is my rolled up jacket!

Rookie Mistake – dressing for how it feels when you walk out the door. It might be sunny and warm now, but trust me, by the time you reach the summit, that singlet and shorts combo will be a regret you feel deep in your soul.

6. Sun Protection: Slip, Slop, Slap !

Down here in Australia, sun protection is a big deal. We are taught to slip on a shirt, slop on sunscreen and slap on a hat from before we can walk! Trust me, nothing ruins a good hike like turning into a human tomato. Sunscreen is a must, even if it’s overcast because UV rays don’t care about pesky things like clouds. I always have a hiking hat with me, I’m sure you’ve seen it in my photos! Added bonus, hats protect you from ticks that love to drop from the tree canopies…

Rookie Mistake – “It’s cloudy, I don’t need a hat or sunscreen.” If I had a dollar for every sunburnt hiker, I could afford to install shade sails across every trail in Queensland.

7. Hikers Wool: The Best Thing You Never Knew You Needed

I’ve waxed poetic in previous blogs about the undiscovered hero of hiking, Hikers Wool. It’s a kiwi product, and is a godsend for sore feet and toes on hikes. Use it to relieve pressure spots or in between your toes for support. It is a permanent fixture in my backpack.

Rookie Mistake – not taking some form of product to manage blisters. Your feet are the one tool you can’t replace on a hike, and even experienced hikers can suffer from blisters. Throw in some bandaids and some wool, all sorted!

8. Emergency Shelter: Because Sometimes Sh*# Happens

Even if you’re just out for the day, pack something for emergency shelter, something as simple as a space blanket. Hopefully you’ll never need it, but it’s a game changer if something does go wrong and you’re stuck on the trail longer than you planned. I have a couple of ‘crunchie wrappers’ in the bottom of my pack (crunchie because its gold on one side, silver on the other!) They take up very little room but I know I’ve got them if sh*# happens.

Rookie Mistake – Thinking a day hike means no emergency gear. Day hikes can turn into night hikes if you get lost, injured, or take a detour that your mate swore by!

9. Headlamp: When Flashlight-in-Teeth Isn’t a Good Look

Scrambling down the side of a mountain trail in the dark with your phone clamped in your teeth? Not ideal. Avoid the dental drama and pack a lightweight headlamp instead. Did you know that dusk in the bush comes 60-90 minutes before everywhere else?? A lamp is perfect for those “oops, I guess we’re hiking after dusk” moments.

Rookie Mistake – Assuming you’ll always beat the sunset. One day on Kumano Kodo, the trail was harder and longer than we planned, and the last hour we were barrelling down the mountain, wanting to be clear before we lost light! Nature’s got no respect for your itinerary…

Conclusion: Hike Smart, Not Hard

So, there you have it. Pack the essentials, avoid rookie mistakes, and you’ll be on your way to a glorious day on the trails. Or at least, you’ll be prepared when your mate shows up with nothing but flip-flops and a can of fizzy drink, saying “I thought we were just going for a stroll?!

See you out on the trails

PJ 😉

Why Hiking Saved my Sanity – and the 5 Hiking Benefits You Need to Know!

Hello and welcome to my LikeToHike blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insight, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

So, I bet you’re wondering, how did I start hiking, and more importantly, why do I keep doing it?

Well, the second part of that question is easier to answer than the first part, but let’s see how we go.

CAUTION

In this blog I’ll be talking a bit about my own hiking journey and life, some of of the personal things I discovered along the way and doing some “sharing”…..which I’m sure you won’t mind…if you aren’t feeling the vibe, skip and I’ll see you next time!

How Did I Start Hiking?

I used to be a runner. Not a lithe, lean, easy runner but a hot, sweaty, ungainly one. I thought that running was the only way to keep fit and healthy. And I did enjoy it. Somewhat. Apart from the chafing, sore knees, sore hips, constant bra issues and blisters.

What really ticked the boxes was being outside, feeling the seasons, moving through different landscapes, having different terrain underfoot, seeing different people and things.

As I transitioned from my third decade into my fourth, I decided there had to be a better way to keep fit and enjoy the outdoors. So, I just slowed it down. I went from running (jogging!) to walking. Albeit fast walking. I found that I had more time to see, feel and experience what was happening around me.

It gave me time to reflect, to ruminate, to problem solve, to de-stress and to mentally and emotionally breathe.

TIP

When you start walking/hiking, some of the apps and tools available make a big difference to your experience. I have used sites like AllTrails and TrailHiking, and apps like Strava and Relive to research and then track my hikes. It makes it feel “real” and in a way, validates what you are doing. If you want to go all in, most apps have a community you can connect with and exchange trails, hikes and performance data.

In the middle of my fourth decade I was travelling for work. A lot. Walking was my excuse to explore new cities and towns, to find the walking trails, the rivers, the beaches, the forests and the bush. Every time I packed my suitcase, I threw in my sneakers and my walking gear. So, now I was a walker. Note quite a hiker. Yet.

Clockwise – Canungra, Brisbane & Sawtell (Australia), Havelock North (NZ) and Berlin (Germany)

Hello Hiking!

About eight years ago, a work colleague and I had the bright idea of putting a four-person team in for the Gold Coast Kokoda Challenge, which is an endurance event held in the Gold Coast hinterland.

Yes, it was about fundraising and developing professional and personal relationships, but it was also about committing to training and pushing, both mentally and physically. We trained as a team for six months – every weekend and sometimes during the week, all through a Queensland summer, then hiked 48km non-stop in July, starting at 11am and finishing at 3am the next day.

And it was FANTASTIC!

However, if you want to try hiking for the first time, maybe aim for something a little less hard core. But then again….there’s a lot to be said for jumping in boots and all…

So, Why Do I Keep Hiking?

When I went from my fourth decade into my fifth, some things happened. I got fat. Not super fat, but about 20kg worth. Some was diet and lifestyle, but most of it was age and stage. I was still walking, but hormones were dictating the direction, not me.

I did realise that if I wanted things to change, it was up to me to create the environment, the conditions and the outcomes.

So, what were the things in my world that brought me pleasure, and what were the things I really didn’t like? What did I want in my life? What were my non-negotiables?

The good news? Husband, child and the two dogs made the cut. So did hiking.

The bad news? The unwanted weight didn’t make the cut. Neither did the job I didn’t like, the commute I hated, the stress, the gaslighters and the crappy food.

At the end of 2021 I made a commitment and embarked on the “year of me”. As this isn’t a self transformation blog I’ll park it there, but by the end of 2022 my goals were met – and hiking played a big part.

Back to the top five benefits of hiking that YOU NEED TO KNOW!

1. Self Esteeem

Nope, the first benefit isn’t weight loss. It’s actually about you. Your confidence, your self esteem. We live in a fast paced world, driven by social media and impossible standards which presume to tell us all the things we aren’t doing well. Or correctly. Or at the right time. Or the right way.

Hiking makes you feel good about you. You’re in charge of the hike. It’s all about where you want to walk, when you want to walk, how fast, how long, with whom and why. You’re in charge of everything. This provides an incredible push of confidence. Embrace the new experiences….

2. Shinrin-Yoku

My favourite pastime. Forest bathing. A phrase coined in Japan about 40 years ago to describe the process of taking in the forest atmosphere to combat tech burnout and reconnect with the natural environment. I love embracing the calm and quiet in the bush, listening to the sounds and just being. Everywhere I hike has a soundtrack, and I love tuning in.

The best part? You don’t need to hike 20km to enjoy the benefits of shinrin-yoku. Try the park down the road. Sit. Listen. Enjoy.

Forest Bathing in a park in Melbourne, Australia

3. Stress Reduction

Told you, weight loss probably won’t make the top 5…

A common by-product of our busy lives is stress. In Australia right now, we have cost of living and mortgage stress as inflation creeps and a recession may be on the horizon. Job security, job performance, family, relationships, being perfect. Its a tough ask.

Hiking gives you a reason to park all that for a short while. Boots. Backpack. Hike. Rinse and repeat. Concentrating on a hike means your brain has less time to worry endlessly about the above. When I hike I’m focussed on my feet, the trail, the trees, the map, my poles, hydrating, saying hello to people and generally what’s happening around me. I unplug from all the “things”.

Less stress. It works.

Springbrook National Park, Queensland

4. Muscles and Bones

It’s a fact of life that as we get older, muscles and bones age also. Strength, density and tone become more important, especially for women. Toned muscles support bones. How many times have you heard about that nana who tripped and broke a wrist? Or that auntie who rolled an ankle? Good muscle tone might not prevent the fall, but it will help minimise the damage.

Hiking is an activity that encourages good muscle development and maintenance. Uneven terrain, hills, slopes, valleys, steps, rocks – they engage and encourage muscle tone in legs, arms, back, feet and core. All the good places.

5. Sense of Community

Rounding out my top 5 benefits of hiking is a sense of community. A sense of belonging to something bigger than you.

Hiking is a popular pastime and offers some incredible events and opportunities on a global scale. You can hike Everest, slog the Kokoda Challenge, shinrin-yoku the Nakasendo Way or commit to the Camino Trail – there’s a hike for you and a fantastic network of like-minded individuals who will be cheering you on. If you haven’t participated in a hiking event, I can highly recommend it., Having a shared purpose and common experience is something very special.

Hiking gives you entry into a community of people who not only accept you and your goals, but actively encourage and support your endeavours. Pretty cool huh?!

Wrapping It Up

So there you have it.

My top 5 benefits of hiking that you need to know. Keep in mind, this is my top 5, and have come from my hiking journey of discovery. Everyone has a different journey with different experiences and milestones – which is the fun of it.

See you next time out on the trails.

PJ.

PS – weight loss is definitely a benefit – but it’s a result of hiking – not the reason 🙂