Tackling the Ships Stern Circuit in Lamington National Park
Ahoy fellow hikers! Welcome back to another grand adventure, this time exploring one of Queensland’s treasures – the 20km Ships Stern Circuit in Lamington National park. A mere 70 minute hop from the Gold Coast, this park is part of the majestic Gondwana Rainforest, covering over 366,500 hectares of pure hiking heaven.
I’ve dallied with parts of Ships Stern before but never braved the full 20km loop. Well, today was the day! What could possibly go wrong, right? Spoiler alert: I didn’t anticipate the unseasonable heat, or the final unwelcome hitchhiker.
First Stage: Downward Delight (And Spiderweb Swords)
Being the clever clogs that I am, I arrived before 5.30am and parked at the top of the park near the Binna Burra Cafe, giving me an easy downhill finish to the hike. Plus, with a forecast of over 33 degrees Celsius, I wanted to beat the midday heat.
Pretty sunrise through the forestAlmost empty carpark
The first part of the trail was a lovely, gentle descent, perfect for soaking up the early morning rays….and as it turns out, spiderwebs. Oh, the webs! I became an impromptu samurai, waving a stick to fend off what felt like an entire arachnid population weaving across the trail! Note to self -arriving early means you get the fresh webs, lucky me.
start of the trail, make sure to clean your boots!Samurai sword in actionThe great work the parks staff do so we can enjoy the trails
At about 1.5km in I hit my first dry creek crossing and took in the beautiful views from Koolanbilba Lookout. The trail became steeper as I continued, but I couldn’t help pausing at a natural cave around the 2.6km mark. Who else had sheltered her over the centuries? I felt like an explorer uncovering new lands and treasures – until I remembered I was actually just sweaty and armed with a samurai spider-stick.
Second Stage: Snakes, Sticks and Stunning Views
By the time I hit the 6.5km mark, I started the uphill slog. Let’s be real, I was a little nervous that the rest of the hike might be all uphill from here – but hey, what’s life without a a challenge?
Bit of a clamber overRocking the hat…!Closed trails due to storm damageVery other worldly forest!
As I trudged upward, the trail opened up to spectacular valley views with grassy vistas, and I swapped my cobweb stick for a snake stick. in Queensland’s spring heat, snakes are out and about looking for love. Fortunately I only encountered one tine brown snake and it slithered away quicker than I could say, “NOPE!”
At 8.5km, I arrived at Charraboomba Rock, a stunning rocky outcrop with heart-stopping stairs that cling to the edge of the cliff. Heights aren’t my thing so I skipped this side adventure. Brave souls, you’re on your own for that one! I still had amazing views, so all was well.
Third Stage: Cliff Views and Cliffhangers
At 10km I found a perfect log for my snack break. Just me, my salad wrap, chocolate bar, and the valley stretching out below. I took the opportunity to spray myself liberally with insect repellent, than goodness for that decision as the next part of this tale will reveal!
Feeling refreshed, I set off again, only to find the second stunning lookout just 500m later. Could’ve had my breakfast with an even better view, but oh well! I had a sit and a look, and then continued along the trail, enjoying the breath-taking scenery and the stillness of the morning completely to myself. So far, I had not seen another soul on the trail – a very special experience.
By now I was halfway through the circuit and starting the long trek back. Around the 13km mark, I began the final ascent. I knew that the last 2km would be downhill, but getting there was a sweaty grind – happily the views made it worthwhile.
At 15km I took a breather at Nagarigoon Falls – the only ‘falling’ waterfall I found. Not a huge amount of water, but hey, it was still peaceful and pretty.
Fourth Stage: The Downhill Stretch (And… The Incident)
With around 1km to go, my backpack strap started to feel…odd. The right hand side was digging in, and no amount of adjusting seemed to help. But I pressed on, keen to finish. It wasn’t until I got back to the car that I discovered the truth.
Fifth Stage: THE TICK (Cue Dramatic Music)
Back at the car, sipping my well earned coffee, the discomfort in the front of my right shoulder was getting worse. What was going on? I checked the area, and there it was. A massive black tick, wriggling happily away like it was at a buffet.
My photographic skills right handed without glasses!
I’ll spare you the gruesome details (yeah nah), but let’s just say that tick had dug in DEEP. With a 70 minute drive home, I had to resist the urge to yank it out, knowing full well you can’t just pull a tick out without risking leaving its head – and its toxins – behind. I emptied a half a can of insect spray on the little bugger and called my sister (a.k.a. tick removal expert). After a tense tweezer-tugging session at her place, the tick was out, intact, and my armpit was back to normal the next day. Crisis averted!
Final Thoughts
Tick drama aside, Ships Stern Circuit was another incredible experience. Stunning views, varied terrain and a good mix of challenge and fun.
Just remember – pack extra insect repellent, watch out for snakes and always, always check for ticks!!
Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips, and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.
I’m a week into my holiday exploring the islands of England Scotland and Iceland. I have the opportunity to hike on not one BUT TWO SCOTTISH ISLES! I only have a short window to accomplish this and I’m pretty sure I can pull it off so let’s get into it.
So, this is where I am. What I understand to be the Inner Hebrides, a cluster of islands off the west coast of Scotland. The two isles in question are Mull and Iona.
The Isle of Mull sits northwest of Glasgow and is well known for the capital fishing village of Tobermory (Wombles anyone… 😉 ) and a single malt whisky distillery conveniently located about 120m from the pier. It’s green, lush, inviting, home to 1,000 people, and gives off a cosy, welcoming vibe.
The Isle of Iona is completely different in every way. It sits about 125km southwest of Tobermory, right on the western tip of Mull. It’s a tiny isle, no more than 5km long and 1.5km wide. Home to less than 17o residents and the world-famous Iona Nunnery and Abbey, it’s stark, windswept, and hauntingly beautiful. Standoffish but when you get to know it – unforgettable.
DAY ONE MORNING – Hiking the Isle of Mull
Welcome to Tobermory 🙂 We landed at the pier of this picture postcard village on the northeastern side of the Isle of Mull. It’s the capital of the island and is instantly recognisable for its brightly painted buildings that line the front of the fishing harbour. Tobermory comes from the Gaelic Tobar Mhoire or Mary’s Well, referring to a well nearby dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
‘scuse my lack of photo expertise….but tis a real shot!
We had a 6km hike that would take us out to the Aros waterfall and explore the harbour front. Rather than hike as part of a group, Mr PJ and I went rogue and decided to do our own thing. Now I wouldn’t usually recommend this, anyone on FB knows what happens to Australian tourists who abandon the cruise excursions and do their own thing…however, the hike was a ‘there and back’ and I was confident that we could manage this in the timeframe given to us.
The trail started at the pier, with an easy set of signs and a map. After a short but sharp climb, we were at the first clifftop and so began a hike that offered view after view after view. We were walking away from the village so every vantage point gave us stunning views back to the village and our ship – Silversea Endeavour.
back to the ship from the pier, the day was shaping up to be a stunneralways always always take a photo of your hike…regardless of length…
Tobermory has luscious trees and abundant vegetation with everything in spring bloom. The hike out to the waterfall was just gorgeous. It was mid-morning, the temperature was mild, and the clothing layers came off very quickly. After about 3km we arrived at the waterfall.
Easy and wide trailsView back to home baseThe green was even greener than I can capture on my phone!
It was a series of short, sharp switches up, and then the same back down to the base of the waterfall. If you hike in Australia, you might be used to high, narrow waterfalls. The Aros was wider and less high, but still very lovely to spend a moment or three contemplating.
We went beyond the falls and explored the adjoining camping and facilities area, where I sadly discovered that the toilets were ‘closed until further notice’. This gave the local wildlife an interesting morning show, but when you gotta go, you gotta go! After my unplanned toilet stop, we decided to head back so we were within our deadline for transfer back to the ship.
Can you see the ship in the background??!
Now, I’m not a petty person by nature, but….it gave me great pleasure to pass the ship hiking group as they huffed and puffed their way up the hill, walking poles flying in all directions and excursion staff urging them onwards and upwards. You take your joy where and when you find it 🙂
The return section was just as enjoyable as the outward section. We passed trail runners, hikers, walkers with dogs, and a heap of visitors just enjoying the Isle.
We did the hike in good time, but remember, it’s not about the time you take, but the time you spend. 🙂
Tobermory, you turned it on weather wise, hike wise and whisky wise. Oh, we had to stop at the distillery at the end of the hike and sample the wares, it would have been rude not to!
DAY TWO AFTERNOON – Hiking the Isle of Iona
If Tobermory was a soft spring morning, Iona was a wild and exciting afternoon. I could not have picked two more different isles to hike on.
Iona is world famous for the Iona Nunnery and Abbey. It’s one of the oldest Christian centres in Western Europe, with first dated records from about 560AD. It’s home to clan Donald and Macdonald, neither of which are my ancestors. I hail from mainland Scotland, clan Leslie just outside of Aberdeen 🙂
We had a fascinating walk around the Nunnery and the Abbey, then met for the hike traversing the Isle, Yep – traversing the isle! Not for the faint-hearted as we had limited time and a decent distance to travel, so only the fit and feisty were present. We started just outside the Abbey and made our way through the fields. The first thing that struck me as we walked along was the complete absence of any trees. Iona is at the western tip of a series of isles and is exposed to the forces of nature. Any trees on the island would be imported and protected as part of a house garden. There are no trees naturally on Iona, the winds destroy them long before they can take root.
At around the 1.5km mark, the guide took us up a hill to a cluster of stones, originally a hermit cell. It’s an ancient ruin nestled into the side of the hill, built by a devout Christian hermit – or so the legend says. Whether it was built by a hermit or shepherds wanting shelter, the structure is centuries old and pretty special to visit.
The terrain was interesting to traverse. Much of the ground is either boggy or a mixture of reeds and sphagnum moss, which looks dry and stable but is actually full of spring water. So as soon as you step on it, down you go! It caught out a few people wearing sneakers. Not me though, thank you Gore-tex Merrells 😉
To be honest, I found the landscape a little unnerving. If you hike regularly in forests and bush trails, a space devoid of any vegetation higher than your knee is ‘interesting’. There were rocky outcrops covered in lichen and magnificent views down to a grey and menacing sea. The hike was very much about the environment and what we were walking through – very different and visually confronting.
There were gates and stiles to navigate and at about 3km we went over a stile that marked the high point, we were officially in the middle of the island. Occasionally we passed flocks of sheep and their cute little black headed lambs.
Side note – Iona is home to seven crofts (little rented farmlets), two larger farms and over 1,000 native sheep. The wee black headed ones are Suffolk or Scotch Mule breeds. I know this as I may have spent some time pre-hike at the Iona Wool Store in the village. No judgment please, I like to shop and knit. Two for one! It’s that kind of blog.
Heading up to the hermit hutMy Iona wool purchase. Thinking bed socks Photo compliments of the lovely website http://www.Ionawool.com
We made our way downward, and what did we stumble upon but the local golf course! Well, this is Scotland so I’m not surprised. From what I understand, Scotland is first in the world for the most golf courses per capita. The Iona Golf Course is mown by sheep and cattle, free to play on, and has a wicked 14th hole 😉
Got Mr PJ out again… 14th hole, wicked fairway and tricky par 3 layup for the green….A green and a hole. I think.
Downward we went, and soon we arrived at the ocean, wild, grey, and absolutely breathtaking. We had the beach to ourselves, and forget sand, it was pebbles, grass, and sheep poop. Our final 1.2km was a brisk walk down the main (only) road back toward the village and pier.
see – no trees!One day I’ll work out selfies….not today tho!
I was struck yet again by the stark and windswept nature of the isle, and what it might mean for residents. Looking at the houses, they are all built to capture sunlight when possible, everyone has skylights and glass to make the most of daylight. I saw woodpiles for home fires, which must come in via ferry as there are no forests or trees on the isle.
Such a beautiful and awe-inspiring land to walk across, such a pleasure, such a privilege.
Just a fraction under 6km to hike across an island – pretty cool!The village’s name is Baile Mor… which means big town. It’s not…
So I did it, two Scottish Isle hikes in two days. WOOOOOOOHOOOOO!
Not the longest of hikes if you read some of my previous blogs, but definitely up there in terms of uniqueness and enjoyment.
The Scottish Isles offer such a range of experiences and opportunities, for all budgets, all mobilities, and all persons. I can absolutely recommend them as a destination for anyone wanting to simultaneously lose and discover themselves hiking. Have a look at visitscotland.com for more info.
Ahhh, the day hike. Nature’s cure for office chair back pain, screen-induced headaches and that nagging feeling that you’ve forgotten how the sun feels on your face. But there’s one tiny hurdle between you and hiking bliss: packing your backpack. Some might think, “its just a few hours, how hard can it be?” Well, let me tell you, it’s a lot harder than it seems if you’re the newbie who brought sunnies, a phone and no water.
Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or just fancy a stroll up and down a few hills, packing the right gear is key. So, let’s dive into the essential items every hiker should pack, and, equally important, the rookie mistakes you want to avoid.
1. Water: Your Best Friend
It sounds obvious, but you’d be surprised how many people underestimate their water needs. A good rule of thumb is to pack at least two litres for a moderate day hike. Add more if you’re hiking in summer, or on a challenging trail.
Hydration bladders are great because they fit snugly into your pack and you can sip as you hike without stopping. I have a 2L single, and a 2 x 1L double, both from Kathmandu. With the tubing conveniently on my backpack strap, I can rehydrate whenever I feel like it.
Rookie Mistake – Thinking a bottle of water is enough for an all day hike. It’s not. Unless you’re Bear Grylls and are prepared to drink from a dirty old stream, pack extra.
2. Snacks: Fuel for the Soul (and the legs)
Nothing says “I’m one with nature” like eating a protein snack bar halfway up a mountain. Seriously though, hiking burns calories and unless you enjoy that rumbling feeling on the way back to the car, pack plenty of snacks. Think nuts, fruit, highly dense protein and carb options that will keep you full. Even a good old sandwich does the trick.
snack time on the trail!
Rookie Mistake – forgetting snacks altogether, or worse, packing snacks that are highly fragile or perishable. I once packed sushi (which I thought was a great choice). Nope. It disintegrated during the hike because of the rough trail….! Stick to non-perishables that won’t turn into a science experiment by midday.
3. First Aid Kit: For when Nature Fights Back
You might think,” it’s only a day hike, I won’t need a first aid kit.” And that’s exactly when you’ll get a blister the size of a $1 coin, get poked in the head by a nasty branch, or discover the joys of a tick bite. A basic kit should include bandaids, wipes, painkillers or anti-imflammatories. Trust me, the one time you don’t pack it will be the time you trip over that rock and wish you had.
My kit when I hiked Kumano KodoAn absolute must for Queensland hiking
Rookie Mistake – Thinking a first aid kit is for “serious” hikes only. Even a short trail can deliver some nasty surprises (hello trips, falls and ticks)
4. Navigation Tools: GPS and Maps
You may be thinking, “I have my phone, why would I need a map?” Well, my friend, phone batteries die, GPS signals drop, and then there you are, lost in the wilderness, trying to find the Wi-Fi password of the nearest tree. Maps are lightweight and definitely don’t need charging.
Laminated maps that live in my backpack
Rookie Mistake – relying solely on your phone for navigation. Fun fact, phones don’t always work in the middle of nowhere and no, your phone flashlight doesn’t count as a backup plan.
5. Clothing: Playing the Weather Guessing Game
Here’s a fun game nature likes to spring on hikers. It’s called “Guess What the Weather Will Do Next!” You’ll be sweating one moment and freezing the next, so layers are your best friend. Pack a lightweight waterproof jacket and bring an extra layer for warmth. Even on warm days, the temperature can drop, especially at higher elevations. I’ve been hiking along a ridge in Binna Burra and gone from a t-shirt to a jumper, beanie, gloves and jacket within 2km and 20 minutes.
Contents of my backpack for a 40km hiking challenge in winter in Queensland. The mint green mound is my rolled up jacket!
Rookie Mistake – dressing for how it feels when you walk out the door. It might be sunny and warm now, but trust me, by the time you reach the summit, that singlet and shorts combo will be a regret you feel deep in your soul.
6. Sun Protection: Slip, Slop, Slap !
Down here in Australia, sun protection is a big deal. We are taught to slip on a shirt, slop on sunscreen and slap on a hat from before we can walk! Trust me, nothing ruins a good hike like turning into a human tomato. Sunscreen is a must, even if it’s overcast because UV rays don’t care about pesky things like clouds. I always have a hiking hat with me, I’m sure you’ve seen it in my photos! Added bonus, hats protect you from ticks that love to drop from the tree canopies…
Rookie Mistake – “It’s cloudy, I don’t need a hat or sunscreen.” If I had a dollar for every sunburnt hiker, I could afford to install shade sails across every trail in Queensland.
7. Hikers Wool: The Best Thing You Never Knew You Needed
I’ve waxed poetic in previous blogs about the undiscovered hero of hiking, Hikers Wool. It’s a kiwi product, and is a godsend for sore feet and toes on hikes. Use it to relieve pressure spots or in between your toes for support. It is a permanent fixture in my backpack.
Rookie Mistake – not taking some form of product to manage blisters. Your feet are the one tool you can’t replace on a hike, and even experienced hikers can suffer from blisters. Throw in some bandaids and some wool, all sorted!
8. Emergency Shelter: Because Sometimes Sh*# Happens
Even if you’re just out for the day, pack something for emergency shelter, something as simple as a space blanket. Hopefully you’ll never need it, but it’s a game changer if something does go wrong and you’re stuck on the trail longer than you planned. I have a couple of ‘crunchie wrappers’ in the bottom of my pack (crunchie because its gold on one side, silver on the other!) They take up very little room but I know I’ve got them if sh*# happens.
Rookie Mistake – Thinking a day hike means no emergency gear. Day hikes can turn into night hikes if you get lost, injured, or take a detour that your mate swore by!
9. Headlamp: When Flashlight-in-Teeth Isn’t a Good Look
Scrambling down the side of a mountain trail in the dark with your phone clamped in your teeth? Not ideal. Avoid the dental drama and pack a lightweight headlamp instead. Did you know that dusk in the bush comes 60-90 minutes before everywhere else?? A lamp is perfect for those “oops, I guess we’re hiking after dusk” moments.
Rookie Mistake – Assuming you’ll always beat the sunset. One day on Kumano Kodo, the trail was harder and longer than we planned, and the last hour we were barrelling down the mountain, wanting to be clear before we lost light! Nature’s got no respect for your itinerary…
Conclusion: Hike Smart, Not Hard
So, there you have it. Pack the essentials, avoid rookie mistakes, and you’ll be on your way to a glorious day on the trails. Or at least, you’ll be prepared when your mate shows up with nothing but flip-flops and a can of fizzy drink, saying “I thought we were just going for a stroll?!“
I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.
We’re back for the second instalment of “Rating the Ryokans” – with my very mathematical (!) approach that measures ambience, quality, cleanliness, onsen, dining and whether the establishment is Kumano and hiker friendly. In my last blog, TB and I had just departed the fantastic Manseiro in Kii-Katsuura which had a lovely onsen and a truly magical evening dining extravaganza.
TAKATA GREEN LAND (KUMOTORI ONSEN) – SORTA RYOKAN EXPERIENCE…
Our next stop was after our longest and most challenging day on Kumano. We did over 20km on some serious trails, finishing at a little village called Koguchi. We found a dinky corner store where we devoured drinks and snacks while waiting for our hotel shuttle.
Only just noticed that the label is mirrored! TB and her best friend cup!
We arrived at Takata Green Land – and were perplexed. It looked like a sports complex, or perhaps a school camp destination. There were a number of interconnected buildings and the reception area gave off a very backpacker vibe, complete with worn industrial carpet, vinyl seating, pingpong table and 27,000 vending machines.
The foyerOur dinky little shuttle van!
Happily our suitcases were waiting for us at reception. Unhappily we had a second floor tatami room and no lift. I almost killed me lifting cases up two flights of stairs after a 20km hike….
The room was very average. Clean, but sadly, much worse for wear with stained, damaged tatami matting, dings and dents in the walls. Such a shame as I suspect that it must have been quite lovely at one point in time. We had shared toilet and sink facilities right outside our room, and as it was very quiet, we pretty much had those to ourselves.
Example of room
The onsen, however, was first rate. Takata Green Land had an outside onsen which we could access via a private walkway. I am not the most graceful gazelle as my family will confirm, so add the complexity of full nudity, cold misty weather, a wet wooden walkway , and speed – and you can imagine the rest. I skidded into the outside hot pool very disgracefully but to the great amusement of my sister and the other onsen users, who were far too polite to show their mirth.
Travel photo of indoors
Unfortunately the onsen experience was the singular highlight of our stay. Post onsen we had high hopes for our evening meal. We were ushered into what looked like a school dining hall, which was doubling as a storage facility. Along two sides of the room were an array of plastic storage containers and boxes stacked ceiling high, and stored against wall was an outdoor canteen arrangement. We were two of the three guests dining that evening, three lonely place settings on a table about 20m long.
The food was fair, with a number of courses including salad, rice, miso, fish and a shabushabu with vegetables. I have to admit, we gave up before dessert and fled to our room.
TB decided that we were staying at the local Hi-De-Hic camp off season and I reckon she was right.
We departed early the next morning to get a bus connection to Hongu and then onto other hiking adventures. We were given a very substantial bento box, which was nice for lunch, well, more like a snack on the bus 🙂
HOTEL SUBARU – ROYKAN/HOT SPRINGS EXPERIENCE
After our Hi-De-Hi experience at Takata Green Land, I hit up Google to see what awaited us at Hotel Subaru. It looked OK – thank goodness.
Our instructions were to finish the hike, take the local bus, alight at the relevant stop and then walk down the road for 1.4km. Righto. There was a bit of excitement as the last half of the walk to the hotel was through a long road tunnel! We scurried through on a narrow pedestrian platform, and I didn’t realise how noisy a car tunnel was – deafening!
As we exited the tunnel – there was Hotel Subaru. It unfolded in front of us with a gigantic outdoor sound shell and fields to the right, and a sweeping driveway which led to the reception area.
Can I say – BEST WELCOME EVER!!!!!!
Name up in lights!Pretty good prices
Omotenashi was in full swing at Hotel Subaru. The front desk was attentive and very helpful. The hotel lobby was immaculate and had a very well stocked (and modestly priced) convenience store where we could purchase some sake ‘friend cups’.
We had been assigned our only western room for our whole Kumano experience. The staff were very insistent on showing us every feature of the room itself, which took some time – mostly via mime as our Japanese, I’m embarrassed to say, was limited to yes, no, hello, goodbye and thank you! But we had a very enthusiastic delivery of our Japanese phrases…
Our room was very clean and tidy – AND – we had a sink and a loo – happy days!
It was, however, frozen in 1989. Complete with bed ruffles, English tea sets and matching curtains. Which provoked a fit of the giggles from TB as the earnest Assistant Manager was pointing out the room features….endlessly. I think the friend cups had a bit to do with it.
Hotel Subaru is renowned for its onsen, and wowser – hello fantastic onsen! It was a remarkable setup, indoor and out. And again, we pretty much had it to ourselves and by now TB and I regarded ourselves as onsen aficionados! Off came the hiking gear, out came the wash bag and the onsen basket and pfffft – who needs a modesty towel?!
COLD plunge pool!!!Women’s outdoorWomen’s indoorWhere we wallowed for quite some time!
The outside onsen was tranquil, and soothing, and we had the place to ourselves (which meant I could sneak some photos!) We emerged squeaky clean and very relaxed.
This is where we both now did a happy dance. You know dinner is going to be great when you are shown to your own little dining enclave, complete with privacy curtain and a table set for a king (actually, two majestic queens).
TB happily seatedWhy yes I will have a glass…The beautifully scripted menuThis was actually BREAKFAST the next morning!!!! See our bento boxes for lunch...
We were treated to some incredible dishes including a whole cooked fish, a shabushabu which was a meal in itself and some beautiful sake. The atmosphere really made it a treat and the attendants were impeccable in their service and attention to detail.
I can see why omotenashi is such a part of the overall Japanese hospitality experience. I felt like visiting royalty, but in a way that showed immense respect to all parties. Well done Hotel Subaru.
NAN-IN TEMPLE – SHUKUBO EXPERIENCE
Our final destination before returning to Tokyo wasn’t on the Kumano trail, but falls within the prefecture of Wakayama, the spiritual centre of Kumano. Koyasan (Mount Koya) is the mountain of temples, comprised of 117 Buddhist temples founded over 1,200 years ago. Located high in the forest covered mountains, it won’t be a spoiler alert for me to say this was one of the most magical and spiritually affirming destinations I’ve ever had the privilege of going to.
Please put Koyasan on your list when hiking Kumano, you won’t be disappointed. And you will certainly get your walking distances in. TB and I walked 10km on our first day in Koyasan – so much to see!
Nan-In is one of the many temples which has been partially modified to allow for overnight experiences. They offer a simple, traditional glimpse into the Buddhist life and rituals. We were very impressed with the entrance to Nan-In, which was rather ornate to honour the gods. The temple is to the left, and the accommodation on the right of the compound.
We were greeted (as we were used to now) with outstanding omotenashi. Our boots had little homes to live in outside the front door and our raincoats and packs were dried and delivered to our room. Koyasan is quite high, and it was about 6 degrees and misty rain when we arrived…brrrrrrr.
We were looked after by a young monk who spoke English, he was very patient and helpful. He seemed to be on call 24/7 for guests as whenever we popped our heads into the office door, the monks waved us out and the young monk appeared soon after. That’s omotenashi!
We were shown to our room, past the communal sinks and toilet facilities. Everything was immaculate and I am not exaggerating when I say you could have eaten off the floor. The attention to detail was incredible and could be seen in every nook and cranny as we walked through the building.
Look out – incoming!Our lovely tatami room
Our room was superb and had a lovely courtyard view. It consisted of an entrance space where suitcases lived, and then the main tatami space, with a sunroom out to the courtyard. We were the only guests in the wing…there’s something to be said for travelling in shoulder season… 😉
Our dinner slot was 6pm. Because we had been exploring Koyasan until quite late, we flipped things around and had dinner before the onsen. We presented ourselves at the main entry, and were ushered into a very ornate and opulent private dining room. There was a shrine in one corner, beautifully decorated sliding panels and a low dining table set for two. The only indication that we weren’t alone in the temple were the twanging American voices of a group across the hallway as they a) struggled to sit down on the floor, b) figure out the eating utensils and c) make sense of the communal bathroom facilities 🙂
Our dining experience was a wonderful treat. Koyasan is a mountain village and was quite cold, even in late March. To counter that, we had UNDER TABLE HEATING!! Our meal was simple, but perfect. I am now an expert in how many ways tofu can be cooked and still taste lovely. All the temples are strictly vegetarian and based on what we were served, possibly plant based. We had (again) modestly priced sake and enjoyed every sip.
After our wonderful meal we went for a soak. The onsen, was very small and indoor only. It did the trick however and we were able to cleanse, bathe and soak solo. It’s not a prerequisite, but still nice to have the onsen to yourself.
Kumano Travel photo of the onsen
TIP
Most onsens are only open during the evening, not in the morning. Plan to bathe on your arrival, or after dinner. If you’re a morning bather, be prepared to adjust…or sponge bath in the loos! at Nan-In, the onsen was open from 4pm to 10pm. Look for the coloured curtains which denote gendered bathing areas – they also do swap around so always check the colours. I have no easy answer for my non-gendered readers except to follow you authentic self and enjoy your onsen experience.
Overnight, no complaints. We were warm and comfy. Except our pillows were beans. Yep, dried beans. Quite firm and small, maybe A4 size? I was clever, I ditched the pillow and went for a bundle of clothes. Worked a treat. TB persevered with her bean torture, and ended up doing emails for most of the night. Not me!
We had an invitation to attend morning prayers before breakfast. No way we were going to miss that! We almost didn’t get in as TB and I were trying to ‘pull’ a ‘slide’ door but we made it. The ceremony was very calming and beautiful to witness. I love the fact that Buddhism just assumes you’re good people, no threshold, no test, just come on in. I’m not a religious person but I appreciate anything that encourages me to stop – breathe – and centre myself.
Kumano Travel photo of worship hall
Breakfast was a cut down version of dinner, again in our own dining paradise with fabulous service and food. Lots of vegetables and tofu. I was very happy 🙂
TB and I left with our souls and tummies replenished and looking forward to our final leg in Japan.
So there you have it. my list of Rating the Ryokans. There are places I wouldn’t stay at again, but I wouldn’t change a thing.
TB and I had the trip of our lives and that included all the experiences. Ichie Cafe, the hairy snoring neighbour but wonderful chiffon cake, the Hi-De-Hi camp with a magical misty outside onsen…every less than ideal stay was also a travel moment to be treasured, embraced and remembered.
Take my rankings with a grain of salt and rather than put you off, I hope these two blogs enrich your decision making process. Not one of our nights on the trail was unpleasant. Every night was an experience – with maybe a couple I don’t need to repeat!
Hi and welcome to my LikeTheHike blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insight, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.
So, there are a million blogs and resources available for travel packing, how to pack light, how to pack smart, how to pack three items of clothing to last 3 weeks…etcetcetc. I won’t be covering any of that in this blog. This is a post about packing for 10 days hiking the amazing Kumano Kodo trail in Japan!!!!! BEYOND EXCITED!!!!!
Where are we going?
TB (sister) and I are heading to the Kumano Kodo Trail, a series of ancient pilgrimage routes that cross the Kii Hanto, the largest peninsula in Japan. For 1,000 years, pilgrims have been walking the routes as they undertook religious acts of worship and purification. In 2004, the Kuman Kodo routes were UNESCO world heritage listed, one of two alongside the Camino de Santiago in Spain. So, we are heading to a VERY COOL part of the world.
We have selected a 10 day self guided trek of the core section of Kumano Kodo called Nakahechi. It runs from Kii-Tanabe on the south western side of the peninsula, up into the mountains and finishes at Kii-Katsuura. It links the three Grand Shrines of Kumano, and has an incredibly rich historical and spiritual atmosphere.
The trek itself is 68km split into 7 days of hiking with 2 experience days and 1 rest day. We didn’t plan the whole trip ourselves, but decided to use an Aussie based trekking company called Raw Travel.
WHEN TO USE THE EXPERTS
When my husband and I travel for a holiday, I’m very happy to plot, plan and book as sorting the logistics for a holiday is part of the fun. However, this holiday is a bit different. We didn’t know exactly where we were going, what would happen, where to book overnights or what to expect. So, we decided to use a travel company that specialises in self-guided treks. Our accommodation, meals and daily luggage transfers are all sorted, we have maps, briefings, and in country support. All we have to do is walk! So far our experience with http://www.rawtravel.com has been excellent. Ask for Chris, she’s the Japan guru.
Why are we going?
Shouldn’t the question be why not? The window in which a person can both afford to travel and is fit enough to tackle multi day hikes is quite small – so we are seizing the day. And, this was a birthday trip planned for 2020, but scuttled thanks to COVID.
What am I packing?
I am a regular traveller so packing for a standard trip isn’t a challenge. However, this is a 13 day hiking trip, and 10 of those days are through terrain that doesn’t offer immediate access to amenities such as cafes, supermarkets or ATM machines. The good news is that our luggage is transferred each day to the next ryokan (B&B lodging) so we only have to carry a day pack.
So, what’s going to Japan??
1. CLOTHES
10 days of hiking in weather that may be cold, warm, gusty or raining – it’s tricky. I don’t want to pack too much, but conversely, I want to make sure I have enough so I’m not wearing crusty socks for 4 days in a row. Here’s my list from the inside out:
Undies – 14 – minimal seams and super comfy for all day walking
Bras – 3 – 1 standard sports bra (Berlei) and 2 wire free bras (Enell)
Swimsuit – although ryokan onsens are strictly a modesty towel only (yikes), the outside natural onsens on the trails are swimsuit friendly so I’m planning to frolic in the water. We are also transiting via Changi Airport on the way home, and I hear there’s a pool we can use there during layover!
Pjyamas – 2 – singlets and shortie sets
Tops – 7 – 3 short sleeved and 4 long sleeved (3 merino in total)
Bottoms – 4 – 3 full length and 1 calf length. Not a fan of hiking trousers…prefer stretchy.
Head & Hands – gloves, beanie and ear wraps (my ears ache in the cold), baseball cap and sun hat.
Vest – 1 – Kathmandu Heli down vest. I’m not sure how cold it will be in the mornings, and this packs down to nothing so it’s an easy inclusion. And it’s apricot – a good safe colour in the forest 🙂
Jackets – 2 – 1 waterproof raincoat (Kathmandu NGX3 Trailhead Jacket) and 1 softshell travel jacket (TK Maxx last winter)
Apricot – good colour for safetyWaterproof to 1,000m – or a days rainStylish and warm
WATCH THE RUB
When I hiked the Kokoda Challenge (49km over 15 hours non-stop), a small seam irritation or issue with clothes quickly escalates into something intolerable. Having clothing fit properly and lie smoothly under your backpack is critical. Ladies, I’m talking bras here! Try different bras, t-shirts, jumpers and jackets on your training hikes so you know what works, and more importantly, what doesn’t.
2. HIKING GEAR & EQUIPMENT
It’s the “too much vs not enough” argument here. What if it rains for 3 days straight and I can’t dry gear? What if the trail is actually really easy and light trail shoes are better than waterproof boots – or vice versa?
Footwear – North Face Vectiv Infinite trail shoes, Merrell waterproof hiking boots
Rainwear – Kathmandu NGX3 Trailhead Jacket (see above), and disposable ponchos. I’m not taking over-trousers because I just can’t walk in them. I’ll get wet, then dry off at the end of the day.
Day Pack – MacPac Rapaki Airstream 28L. ( I love the ventilated back – less “sweaty betty” and it can hold a lot of stuff)
Water – 3L MacPac camelpak which sits very nicely in the day pack and feeds out with a water tube. It’s not absolutely necessary for longer hikes like Kumano Kodo, but it means I have water on tap (*boomtish*) for the day.
Poles – MacPac telescopic hiking poles
Sleeping Pad – hear me out! When I was researching ryokan accommodation, there was mention that tatami mats and pillows can be quite firm. I really don’t want to be uncomfortable, so I bought a foot press inflatable air mattress that I can use under a tatami. Its only 500g and fits really nicely into the bottom of my pack. If I don’t need it – happy days.
Plastic Bags and Drinking Things – yes, I need plastic bags for wet gear, dirty shoes, dirty clothes and to protect my phone, laptop and passport. I am also taking a drink bottle which I can use for my protein water, and a little coffee mug to keep me happy in the mornings 🙂
UHOH…WE’VE LOST YOUR LUGGAGE
Lost and delayed luggage is a sad reality of travel. If my suitcase doesn’t make it to Tokyo in time to start Kumano Kodo, I can buy most things, but there are some things like boots and inserts which are worn in, and certain bits of clothing which I really prefer. So, I will be using my daypack as carry on, and will be packing non-negotiables such as hiking boots, inserts, one hiking outfit, medicine, laptop etc. Just in case…
3. MEDICAL & FIRST AID
I always carry a range of medications when travelling, Usually it’s gastro-stop, gaviscon, cold and flu tablets, panadol – drugs that keep you going as travel plans wait for no one! This trip is a little different as it’s post COVID, out of the main tourist areas, and we are hiking almost 70km in forests so the things I’m packing are:
Anti-inflammatory meds, a footcare kit, hikers wool, muscle ointment, strapping tape, allergy tablets, gastro-stop, bug spray, magphos tissue salts and a shaker of table salt (leeches…. 😦 )
I’m also taking face masks (Japan still requires masks to be worn on public transport and some flights) and a couple of packs of antiseptic wipes for hands and surfaces.
a cornucopia of pharmaceuticals!The OG
HIKERS WOOL
I grew up in New Zealand, and Hikers Wool is a fantastic kiwi product. My mum (SJ), an avid hiker in her time, swears by it and shared it when I started hiking seriously. It wraps around and underneath individual toes, moulds to your footprint, wicks away moisture and prevents friction – and therefore prevents blisters and damage. Don’t ask me the mechanics – it just works! See for yourself http://www.hikerswool.co.nz
4. FOOD
Another recommendation from Raw Travel was to take along hiking snacks. The Nakahechi section runs through some very traditional areas of the Kii Peninsula, so the ability to pop out for a latte will be limited. Corner stores are not on every corner so that means minimal access to snacks etc. TB and I are caffeine fiends, but only via the traditional coffee option and the feedback is most ryokans offer lovely tea, but not really coffee.
So, here’s what I’m taking sustenance wise:
Coffee – Avalanche Sugar Free Latte 10 pack. Its not a freshly made flat white, but it will do for that caffeine hit. Maybe it’s a good detox opportunity…!
Protein – FeedGood Tasteless Protein/Collagen which I add to my water bottle. It allows for easy protein delivery when you’re walking and you don’t want to be eating all the time. And it really is tasteless. Really!
Snacks – Carman’s Snack Bars and Aldi “On the Go” mixed nuts.
My snack needs are pretty simple when hiking. As you hike for longer periods of time, you find out what fuel works for your body, when and in what volume. I’m happy to have the same snacks each day 🙂 and then dive into the local delicacies at the evening meal.
5. OTHER STUFF
So, what else needs to be in my suitcase to ensure an amazing Kumano Kodo experience?
Electronics – laptop and phone, plug converter and charging cords. I’m still on the fence about taking a battery pack. They’re really heavy and we will be at a ryokan each night, so will be able to charge up. We also have access to an itinerary app via Raw Travel so we can track our daily instructions – what could go wrong?!
Cash – another tip from my research – take cash. There are very few EFTPOS and ATM facilities on Nakahechi. If we want a sake or two in the evenings, or buy things on the trail, it will most likely be a cash transaction. So, I did some complex calculations and decided on 5,000JPY a day ($55AUD). And, it was a nice round figure for the lovely Travelex kiosk lady. 🙂
Documentation – Japan travel requirements are pretty self explanatory, and they do require a COVID vaccination certificate at airport checkin, and there are a range of customs, immigration and quarantine forms online, which also have printouts you can take as backup. I’m not a luddite by any means, but I just don’t trust phones, links and screen shots when you’re next in line at customs. I’m a super law abiding traveller, but put me in front of a customers officer and I turn into a female version of Inspector Clouseau, complete with a severe case of the ‘dropsies’. So, I’m taking print copies of all of the above, as well as insurance docs, itinerary, train travel planning screen shots. I have a “folder”…. 🙂
Suitcase – this trip I’m trialling a soft shell Pacsafe Toursafe 96L anti-theft two wheel case. TBH I was quite surprised I got into this with all my stuff, so it’s deceptively roomy. I’ve paced around the house and driveway a couple of times fully loaded to see about wheel and handle robustness – so far so good.
Is That Everything?
After covering off all eventualities, all possibilities, all weather events and circumstances – I THINK I’M READY. AND SUPER EXCITED!!!
This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to experience something that is so different, so exciting and a hike that will, I feel, add to my growth as a human. I will be journaling on the hike, but will also be capturing some great stories (as I’m sure TB will do something very entertaining with her modesty towel in the onsens), so stay tuned for some more Kumano Kodo blogs!!!
Hello and welcome to my LikeToHike blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.
Today’s blog is pretty special – we are heading into the Gondwana Rainforest!
Gondwana Rainforest is a cluster of 50 separate reserves stretching from Newcastle in the south to Brisbane in the north. Gondwana was World Heritage listed in 1986, and contains the remnants of the great rainforests which once covered the entire continent of Australia.
Gondwana is known for vertical stone cliffs, volcanic craters, inspiring waterfalls and a range of ancient flora and fauna. Included in the Gondwana footprint is Lamington National Park, and within that, Binna Burra. One of the many trails at Binna Burra is the Lower Bellbird Track – which is my blog for today…
Welcome to Lower Bellbird Trail
CAUTION
Binna Burra is SW of Gold Coast and close to the Qld/NSW border. The road up to Binna Burra was washed out about a year ago in heavy rains. The trip up takes over an hour to travel 55km as sections of the road are down to single lane and controlled by traffic lights. Allow enough time to get up and down the mountain.
We chose the Lower Bellbird Trail because 1) the name is lovely, 2) I prefer hiking circuits so you’re on new ground the whole way and 3) we wanted a trail that was over 10km long. We are in training for Kumano Kodo, so need to get some miles on the boots.
We hiked Lower Bellbird anti-clockwise, starting at the southern entry point, and looping south, then turning north, and finishing at the northern exit point.
TIP
It’s important to note that Lower Bellbird Trail doesn’t fully loop. Otherwise it would be called Lower Bellbird Circuit! You will finish at a different place to where you started. We finished further down the mountain, and then walked back up the road to our car, which was at the southern entry point carpark. There are carparks near the southern and northern entry/exit points to Bellbird, but regardless where you park, you will still need to walk on the road to start or finish Bellbird.
Let’s Go!
carpark downhill, Bellbird entry to the rightBellbird entry pointGotta love Wildlife Ranger sense of humour
The Lower Bellbird Trail is well marked and easy to find. We started at 6am, and as you can see, no cars. By 9.30am when we returned, different story. Parking is limited so if you want a good park, start early.
Binna Burra Lodge and the surrounding areas were developed in the 1930’s. Many of the hiking trails were built around the same time. Along some of the older trails you will see stones set into the side of the trail. I find these stones immensely reassuring, because if the stones are there, that means I’m in the right place!
stones = right trail
The first 2.8km of Lower Bellbird leads you down a gentle slope, under a beautiful forest canopy. It doesn’t take long to realise you’re in for a very special hike. The forest is dense and cool, and the bird calls are an assault on the senses. It wasn’t long before we got our first glimpse of the views. The trail was taking us long the side of a cliff face, not exposed but certainly high and that afforded us a view from the top of the world.
Lookout Spots – AMAZING!
There are two lookout spots on the Lower Bellbird, Koolanbilba and Yangahla. Both are on the trail, so are worth a breather and a look. The signage at the Koolanbilba lookout confused me a little as it didn’t reference Bellbird at all, but you can’t get lost, there’s only one way to walk! The view is nothing short of amazing. There is a map at the lookout which explains what you’re looking at, all the way to the Gold Coast in the far distance.
TIP
The Lower Bellbird Trail is what I would call a medium challenge trail. It’s quite narrow and in parts there are natural obstacles like steep stairs, fallen branches, uneven surfaces, rather large spiderwebs (!) and my nemesis, cliff faces. It’s not aerobically challenging, but skill, experience and mettle challenging. I suspect because it starts and finishes at different points, it’s not as well hiked as other Binna Burra trail options so less well worn, but if you’ve hiked before and/or you’re agile, no worries mate!
Rock Formations – AMAZING!
As I mentioned earlier, one of the features of the Gondwana Rainforest is the incredible rock formations. We walked past them, through them, down them, alongside them and under them. I am in awe of the men and women who created these trails almost 100 years ago with the simplest of tools and equipment – no Google or GPS…
Morning Tea Anyone?
If I hike for more than about 10km, I like to stop for a break. Usually when hiking a circuit, the break is at the top (or bottom) which gives you a chance to either catch your breath, or steel yourself for what’s to come. By around the 8.5km we had been walking gently downhill for about 90 minutes – which was lovely, but what goes down has to go back up!
We arrived at the split between Ships Stern Trail and the Lower Bellbird Trail. Our trail was taking us up, so we stopped for a short break of apples, scroggin, iced coffee and marshmallows. (don’t ask, they were in the scroggin!)
The signage around Binna Burra is pretty clear and our trail was well marked. You will start your hike upward around the 8.8km mark, but don’t’ worry, the first upward section is quite gentle.
Scarred Landscape
Australia is known globally for a few things. Kangaroos, drop bears, flies, BBQ’s and hot summers. Along with hot summers comes bush fires. The 2019-20 Black Summer bushfires were some of the worst recorded across Australia. In September 2019, a fast-moving bushfire swept through Binna Burra and burned homes, buildings, lodges and infrastructure to the ground. It also caused unusually significant damage to the surrounding rainforest. Every Australian knows the smell of a bushfire and the visceral fear it can create. Blackened tree trunks identifies a bushfire area and can remain as evidence for many years.
Stone Cliffs – AMAZING!
After walking up a gentle incline through a lovely carpet of dry leaves and another cool rainforest canopy for about 3km, we came across a very imposing set of stone cliffs. The cartographer in me was eyeing up the stone cliffs with some trepidation as I couldn’t see how we were going to traverse our way up and out. What I didn’t know was the trail hugged its way around the stone cliffs to the north, and then turned left into the forest.
The cliffs have regular rock falls, so signage asks you not to stop as you move through two key sections. The feel of walking this section of the trail was very imposing as our human frailty was very much in evidence when compared to eons of rock formations.
Dairy Farm in a Rainforest??
Around the 13km mark, we came out into the most picturesque clearing…in face my niece SB likened it to the Twilight Meadow, and you can see what she means. All we needed was sparkly skin and we would be in a movie set!
I read somewhere that part of the Lower Bellbird used to be a dairy farm, and this clearing definitely had a relaxed bovine vibe to it. We could have plonked here all day and just revelled in the ambience.
PS – it was at this point we saw the first hikers walking the other way. Up to this point, we hadn’t passed anyone!
Back to Reality
The last section of the trail is a gravel access road going up from the Twilight Meadow to Binna Burra Rd. It’s only about 1km from the meadow back to reality. There is a slightly confusing fork in the gravel road, with an arrow to the left, and the gravel road continuing straight ahead. We studied our print map and decided that both led back to the road, so we took the recommended left turn.
Rubber to the Road
Oh my.
We weren’t anticipating the uphill hike back to the carpark.
We exited Lower Bellbird at the first “x marks the spot”. We had to walk back to the carpark, which is the second “x marks the spot”. The difference? 2.5km. Up. Or as I described it to my hiking buddies “just a bit further!”
However, the views from the road our over Lamington were fantastic , and we could just see where we finished Lower Bellbird, circled in blue. Thankfully it wasn’t a hugely aerobic hike, otherwise the last leg up the road would have been painful.
TIP
I would recommend you plan for this last section. Either allow for it at the start, or as we did, at the end. Unless you have a driver on call, you will be walking 2.5km on the road at some stage as part of your Lower Bellbird hike.
So, What Did We Think?
I give this trail two thumbs up. So do my hiking buddies TB(sister), SB and MB (nieces). It’s a visually stunning way to spend 3 hours – even the road section views are awesome.
We saw such a range of Australian forest history, walking in a rainforest that has been in existence for thousands of years *mindblown*
We were serenaded with a cascade of forest sounds. We heard whipbirds, green catbirds (very unnerving, they sound like babies crying), cicadas, bullfrogs, kookaburras – and a whole lot more we couldn’t identify but enjoyed nonetheless.
We had the trail to OURSELVES! We didn’t see hikers until we were in the Twilight meadow. That never happens. It was our own little bit of rainforest fabulousness. Forest bathing uninterrupted. yay.
FINAL TIP
It’s great to support local businesses when you hike. We try to buy a coffee, a snack, a map, a hat, and spend our dollars as we hike. If you go to Binna Burra on a Sunday, stop in afterward at the Beechmont Farmers Market (3rd Sunday of the month). hey offer a range of local products and services. I can recommend the Beech Mountain Distillery stand, they do a mean Lemon Myrtle Gin!
Wrapping Up
So there you have it. Binna Burra in a nutshell. Take the time to drive up to Binna Burra and explore the trails. You won’t be disappointed.
See you next time out on the trails.
PJ
PS – remember last time I was talking about one of the benefits of hiking being good muscle tone? Well, I managed to face plant on the footpath walking the dogs last week, and gave myself a spectacular black eye.
I also banged my hand, knee and shoulder but guess what – NO BROKEN BONES 🙂
Hello and welcome to my LikeToHike blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insight, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.
So, I bet you’re wondering, how did I start hiking, and more importantly, why do I keep doing it?
Well, the second part of that question is easier to answer than the first part, but let’s see how we go.
CAUTION
In this blog I’ll be talking a bit about my own hiking journey and life, some of of the personal things I discovered along the way and doing some “sharing”…..which I’m sure you won’t mind…if you aren’t feeling the vibe, skip and I’ll see you next time!
How Did I Start Hiking?
I used to be a runner. Not a lithe, lean, easy runner but a hot, sweaty, ungainly one. I thought that running was the only way to keep fit and healthy. And I did enjoy it. Somewhat. Apart from the chafing, sore knees, sore hips, constant bra issues and blisters.
What really ticked the boxes was being outside, feeling the seasons, moving through different landscapes, having different terrain underfoot, seeing different people and things.
As I transitioned from my third decade into my fourth, I decided there had to be a better way to keep fit and enjoy the outdoors. So, I just slowed it down. I went from running (jogging!) to walking. Albeit fast walking. I found that I had more time to see, feel and experience what was happening around me.
It gave me time to reflect, to ruminate, to problem solve, to de-stress and to mentally and emotionally breathe.
TIP
When you start walking/hiking, some of the apps and tools available make a big difference to your experience. I have used sites like AllTrails and TrailHiking, and apps like Strava and Relive to research and then track my hikes. It makes it feel “real” and in a way, validates what you are doing. If you want to go all in, most apps have a community you can connect with and exchange trails, hikes and performance data.
In the middle of my fourth decade I was travelling for work. A lot. Walking was my excuse to explore new cities and towns, to find the walking trails, the rivers, the beaches, the forests and the bush. Every time I packed my suitcase, I threw in my sneakers and my walking gear. So, now I was a walker. Note quite a hiker. Yet.
Clockwise – Canungra, Brisbane & Sawtell (Australia), Havelock North (NZ) and Berlin (Germany)
Hello Hiking!
About eight years ago, a work colleague and I had the bright idea of putting a four-person team in for the Gold Coast Kokoda Challenge, which is an endurance event held in the Gold Coast hinterland.
Yes, it was about fundraising and developing professional and personal relationships, but it was also about committing to training and pushing, both mentally and physically. We trained as a team for six months – every weekend and sometimes during the week, all through a Queensland summer, then hiked 48km non-stop in July, starting at 11am and finishing at 3am the next day.
And it was FANTASTIC!
However, if you want to try hiking for the first time, maybe aim for something a little less hard core. But then again….there’s a lot to be said for jumping in boots and all…
2016 – the hiking love affair begins
So, Why Do I Keep Hiking?
When I went from my fourth decade into my fifth, some things happened. I got fat. Not super fat, but about 20kg worth. Some was diet and lifestyle, but most of it was age and stage. I was still walking, but hormones were dictating the direction, not me.
I did realise that if I wanted things to change, it was up to me to create the environment, the conditions and the outcomes.
So, what were the things in my world that brought me pleasure, and what were the things I really didn’t like? What did I want in my life? What were my non-negotiables?
The good news? Husband, child and the two dogs made the cut. So did hiking.
The bad news? The unwanted weight didn’t make the cut. Neither did the job I didn’t like, the commute I hated, the stress, the gaslighters and the crappy food.
At the end of 2021 I made a commitment and embarked on the “year of me”. As this isn’t a self transformation blog I’ll park it there, but by the end of 2022 my goals were met – and hiking played a big part.
Back to the top five benefits of hiking that YOU NEED TO KNOW!
1. Self Esteeem
Nope, the first benefit isn’t weight loss. It’s actually about you. Your confidence, your self esteem. We live in a fast paced world, driven by social media and impossible standards which presume to tell us all the things we aren’t doing well. Or correctly. Or at the right time. Or the right way.
Hiking makes you feel good about you. You’re in charge of the hike. It’s all about where you want to walk, when you want to walk, how fast, how long, with whom and why. You’re in charge of everything. This provides an incredible push of confidence. Embrace the new experiences….
2. Shinrin-Yoku
My favourite pastime. Forest bathing. A phrase coined in Japan about 40 years ago to describe the process of taking in the forest atmosphere to combat tech burnout and reconnect with the natural environment. I love embracing the calm and quiet in the bush, listening to the sounds and just being. Everywhere I hike has a soundtrack, and I love tuning in.
The best part? You don’t need to hike 20km to enjoy the benefits of shinrin-yoku. Try the park down the road. Sit. Listen. Enjoy.
Forest Bathing in a park in Melbourne, Australia
3. Stress Reduction
Told you, weight loss probably won’t make the top 5…
A common by-product of our busy lives is stress. In Australia right now, we have cost of living and mortgage stress as inflation creeps and a recession may be on the horizon. Job security, job performance, family, relationships, being perfect. Its a tough ask.
Hiking gives you a reason to park all that for a short while. Boots. Backpack. Hike. Rinse and repeat. Concentrating on a hike means your brain has less time to worry endlessly about the above. When I hike I’m focussed on my feet, the trail, the trees, the map, my poles, hydrating, saying hello to people and generally what’s happening around me. I unplug from all the “things”.
Less stress. It works.
Springbrook National Park, Queensland
4. Muscles and Bones
It’s a fact of life that as we get older, muscles and bones age also. Strength, density and tone become more important, especially for women. Toned muscles support bones. How many times have you heard about that nana who tripped and broke a wrist? Or that auntie who rolled an ankle? Good muscle tone might not prevent the fall, but it will help minimise the damage.
Hiking is an activity that encourages good muscle development and maintenance. Uneven terrain, hills, slopes, valleys, steps, rocks – they engage and encourage muscle tone in legs, arms, back, feet and core. All the good places.
5. Sense of Community
Rounding out my top 5 benefits of hiking is a sense of community. A sense of belonging to something bigger than you.
Hiking is a popular pastime and offers some incredible events and opportunities on a global scale. You can hike Everest, slog the Kokoda Challenge, shinrin-yoku the Nakasendo Way or commit to the Camino Trail – there’s a hike for you and a fantastic network of like-minded individuals who will be cheering you on. If you haven’t participated in a hiking event, I can highly recommend it., Having a shared purpose and common experience is something very special.
Kokoda Start 2016Kokoda Finish 2021 (at 3.35am!)
Hiking gives you entry into a community of people who not only accept you and your goals, but actively encourage and support your endeavours. Pretty cool huh?!
Wrapping It Up
So there you have it.
My top 5 benefits of hiking that you need to know. Keep in mind, this is my top 5, and have come from my hiking journey of discovery. Everyone has a different journey with different experiences and milestones – which is the fun of it.
See you next time out on the trails.
PJ.
PS – weight loss is definitely a benefit – but it’s a result of hiking – not the reason 🙂
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