Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

HOW EXCITING!!! I’m coming to you from the green and lush countryside of Kent, in southern England. Him and me are on holiday for a month, so come with me on some hikes as we make our way through England, Scotland, Iceland, and beyond!

Today we are in Kent, staying in a lovely pub called The Three Chimneys for three nights. The best barman ever (Scott) gave me a local map that showed a range of footpaths and bridle trails which made planning my hike super easy. Three Chimneys has a 350-year history and an association with Sissinghurst Castle that is fascinating, but more on that later…

I thought it prudent to map a hike out the night before and identified Sissinghurst Castle as my preferred destination. To be fair, I did map it out at the same time I sampled the local pressed cider….so buckle in for a bit of an adventure… 🙂

Thursday morning, 6am. I rugged up and left the warmth of our room. The English countryside in spring means it’s light around 5.15am and dusk doesn’t hit until around 8.30pm, so I had the benefit of an early start. However, the air does have a bit of a nip in it, so remember to layer if needed. I also took my phone and checked I had 4G coverage. Safety first hikers!

I was determined to explore the bridle and footpath trails which crisscrossed the countryside. Bridle paths and footpaths are legally protected routes that the public can use on foot or on horseback. It’s even legislated under a national act, the Highways Act 1980! This includes farm fields with cattle, sheep, you name it.

As you can see, my first departure down a footpath (which isn’t a footpath as you think, but merely a sign into a field) was a bit of a bust, it led back to the pub across the paddock. So nope! Back onto the road, and thankfully the next footpath sign was about 150m down and was the correct one. Off I went, the path was freshly mown, and I was on my way. I weaved behind a row of farmhouses feeling quite brave and breathing deeply, loving the fresh bracing air with my merino beanie firmly covering my ears, which don’t like the cold 🙂

I came upon my first stile – how exciting!! The stile opened into a large field with hedgerows on three sides, and two cows…..have a look in the distance and you will see them right down the end of the field. I had a fair idea of where I was aiming for, so off I went. Now, if you haven’t walked through a farming field before, they can be challenging. It’s not the same as walking in a park. Cattle are heavy, usually around 600kg. And in this field, there were two cows. Paying me attention. Which is fine, I grew up on a farm so cows I’m OK with. But this wasn’t my field, my farm, or my cows. Thankfully the inhabitants were two ladies, and guessing from their heavy udders, they may have just weaned some calves. So, starting my brisk walk across the field I had to traverse a terrain that was pockmarked with cattle hoof divots. Definitely not flat and definitely a potential menace to the ankles.

I wasn’t even 100m into the field and I had two escorts…..trotting up to say hello and find out all my business!

Even though I am used to farms and cattle, having two 600kg+ cows cantering up to you is a little intimidating! About now I realised I couldn’t see my exit point in the opposite hedgerow. Imagine this. I’m in a foreign field, with two huge cows tracking me like F18 Hornets, what’s my next move? I saw a gate. To the left. Which opened back onto the lane. Change of plan. Bessie and Biddy would have preferred I stay for a chat, but I had a hike to enjoy and it wasn’t going to end in a boggy field in Biddenden. Two minutes later I scaled a fence and was back out in the lane, a little sweaty and slightly defeated. You can see the loop at the start of my hike tracking pic. SIGH. I ventured down the adjacent lane to see if I could find the next stile, but no luck. Back to the original mission – my castle! The destination is important, but really, hiking is all about the journey.

I knew there was a castle in the vicinity and a range of ways to get there. It was now down to my google map reading skills (and the map Scott gave me) to get there.

You gotta love some of the Kentish road names. HarePlain Rd. Grandshore Lane. DigDog Lane. Lewd Lane. How did these names come about?? The mind boggles.

I loved walking down DigDog Lane to find my castle. I saw the bridle trail markers at about the 2.5km mark so it was time to leave the road and start into the trails proper, thankfully without my friends of the bovine persuasion. And wow, was I in for a fantastic few kms!!! I entered what can only be described as a leafy green otherworld tunnel heading up a gentle slope that seemed to run forever, and I had it all to myself.

This is what I craved, beautiful English countryside trails that ran through rolling fields with a smattering of happy woolly sheep. The trail was very well used, with an equal mix of horse and human prints. Oh. And doggos. I encountered a few during my hike who were having the best day ever! I even had an intimate experience with a very exuberant Dalmatian who left an indelible imprint on me….!

Around 2.8km I encountered what looked like a tiny wooden bus stop, but it was a hide. A hide is a wee structure that people use to observe wildlife, usually birds. Which makes sense as I could hear several very busy ducks in the nearby pond, and in the background, the haunting call of peacocks. Once you hear a peacock call, you’ll never forget it…. magical.

The temperature was cool, but not cold. I had on a long sleeved merino and a sleeveless puffer, and heading uphill I was starting to feel quite warm. Around the 3.5km mark I took a right hand turn and had an orchard on my left, and a bluebell forest on my right. Stunning.

By the time I reached the 4km mark, I started to think I had overshot my castle. I was still on the bridle path, but had gone past a couple of farm houses, and seemed to be heading for another main road (not my fav place to hike). I had also passed a large estate called Horse Race House. Now, I’m about to say some not very nice things about the owners of Horse Race House. Skip on if you don’t want to read my savage interpretation of some Kent locals!

So, imagine buying a heritage house and woods adjacent to a national park and castle. You have land, I’m guessing a few acres, and you are next to a bridle path. The public uses the land all around you. So, what do you do? Go with the flow? Hell no. You put up as many unfriendly signs as possible which, TBH I didn’t see anywhere else in four days of wandering, and label yourself as a bit of a tosspot. All these signs were along a 300m section of the path. SIGH.

I did a u-turn just after Horse Race House (a great name!) and came back down the bridle path hill. I had gone through a couple of forks in the path on my way up, so one of those was going to be my next destination. What’s the saying? “when you come to a fork in the road, take it”. I knew one of the forks would take me to my castle.

YAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAY!!! I found my castle at 5.5km. I knew it was there, I just had to take the right bridle path.

My castle isn’t the biggest. It’s not the oldest or the most famous. But at about 7am I found it. And it was all mine to explore. I saw the castle vegetable garden that generates over 6 tonnes of produce a season for the local castle restaurant. I saw the perfectly preserved Oast hop kilns that dry hops to make beer. I saw the barn where French prisoners of war lived during the Seven Years’ War which kicked off in 1756. The POWs were allowed out on parole to venture as far as the Three Chimneys Pub, which they called Tres Chemins (three junctions)…which over the generations, morphed into Three Chimneys. I think there may be quite a few descendants in the area!!

I wandered around the moat and grounds which are expertly managed by the National Trust. I felt honoured to have this perfect castle all to myself on a still spring morning. As hikers would understand, the best hikes not only ground your day, but they fill your soul.

All good things must, however, come to an end. It was time to leave my castle. I had maybe 3-4km back to my digs and no firm plan on how to get there. I chose the bridle trail that made sense, in the general direction of my destination. I was sidetracked at the 6km mark with the Frogmead restoration project, but it’s important to appreciate the land you’re hiking through. And who doesn’t love a frog!

I found DigDog Lane, more by luck than design. The narrow hedgerow lanes are quiet and intimate. The barman at Three Chimneys said the drummer from Cold Play lives in DigDog Lane…I can’t confirm or deny, but I kept my eyes peeled for fancy cars and tinted windows!

If you want to experience a hike that you definitely WON’T forget, I can absolutely recommend Kent and Sissinghurst. I stayed at a 350 year old pub, ate some incredible food, met some warm and friendly locals, hiked in the English countryside and I found my very own castle.

How can you top that???!!! (stay tuned to find out), and see you out on the English, Scottish, and Icelandic trails.

PJ