Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips, and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

I’m a week into my holiday exploring the islands of England Scotland and Iceland. I have the opportunity to hike on not one BUT TWO SCOTTISH ISLES! I only have a short window to accomplish this and I’m pretty sure I can pull it off so let’s get into it.

So, this is where I am. What I understand to be the Inner Hebrides, a cluster of islands off the west coast of Scotland. The two isles in question are Mull and Iona.

The Isle of Mull sits northwest of Glasgow and is well known for the capital fishing village of Tobermory (Wombles anyone… 😉 ) and a single malt whisky distillery conveniently located about 120m from the pier. It’s green, lush, inviting, home to 1,000 people, and gives off a cosy, welcoming vibe.

The Isle of Iona is completely different in every way. It sits about 125km southwest of Tobermory, right on the western tip of Mull. It’s a tiny isle, no more than 5km long and 1.5km wide. Home to less than 17o residents and the world-famous Iona Nunnery and Abbey, it’s stark, windswept, and hauntingly beautiful. Standoffish but when you get to know it – unforgettable.

DAY ONE MORNING – Hiking the Isle of Mull

Welcome to Tobermory 🙂 We landed at the pier of this picture postcard village on the northeastern side of the Isle of Mull. It’s the capital of the island and is instantly recognisable for its brightly painted buildings that line the front of the fishing harbour. Tobermory comes from the Gaelic Tobar Mhoire or Mary’s Well, referring to a well nearby dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

We had a 6km hike that would take us out to the Aros waterfall and explore the harbour front. Rather than hike as part of a group, Mr PJ and I went rogue and decided to do our own thing. Now I wouldn’t usually recommend this, anyone on FB knows what happens to Australian tourists who abandon the cruise excursions and do their own thing…however, the hike was a ‘there and back’ and I was confident that we could manage this in the timeframe given to us.

The trail started at the pier, with an easy set of signs and a map. After a short but sharp climb, we were at the first clifftop and so began a hike that offered view after view after view. We were walking away from the village so every vantage point gave us stunning views back to the village and our ship – Silversea Endeavour.

Tobermory has luscious trees and abundant vegetation with everything in spring bloom. The hike out to the waterfall was just gorgeous. It was mid-morning, the temperature was mild, and the clothing layers came off very quickly. After about 3km we arrived at the waterfall.

It was a series of short, sharp switches up, and then the same back down to the base of the waterfall. If you hike in Australia, you might be used to high, narrow waterfalls. The Aros was wider and less high, but still very lovely to spend a moment or three contemplating.

We went beyond the falls and explored the adjoining camping and facilities area, where I sadly discovered that the toilets were ‘closed until further notice’. This gave the local wildlife an interesting morning show, but when you gotta go, you gotta go! After my unplanned toilet stop, we decided to head back so we were within our deadline for transfer back to the ship.

Now, I’m not a petty person by nature, but….it gave me great pleasure to pass the ship hiking group as they huffed and puffed their way up the hill, walking poles flying in all directions and excursion staff urging them onwards and upwards. You take your joy where and when you find it 🙂

The return section was just as enjoyable as the outward section. We passed trail runners, hikers, walkers with dogs, and a heap of visitors just enjoying the Isle.

We did the hike in good time, but remember, it’s not about the time you take, but the time you spend. 🙂

Tobermory, you turned it on weather wise, hike wise and whisky wise. Oh, we had to stop at the distillery at the end of the hike and sample the wares, it would have been rude not to!

DAY TWO AFTERNOON – Hiking the Isle of Iona

If Tobermory was a soft spring morning, Iona was a wild and exciting afternoon. I could not have picked two more different isles to hike on.

Iona is world famous for the Iona Nunnery and Abbey. It’s one of the oldest Christian centres in Western Europe, with first dated records from about 560AD. It’s home to clan Donald and Macdonald, neither of which are my ancestors. I hail from mainland Scotland, clan Leslie just outside of Aberdeen 🙂

We had a fascinating walk around the Nunnery and the Abbey, then met for the hike traversing the Isle, Yep – traversing the isle! Not for the faint-hearted as we had limited time and a decent distance to travel, so only the fit and feisty were present. We started just outside the Abbey and made our way through the fields. The first thing that struck me as we walked along was the complete absence of any trees. Iona is at the western tip of a series of isles and is exposed to the forces of nature. Any trees on the island would be imported and protected as part of a house garden. There are no trees naturally on Iona, the winds destroy them long before they can take root.

At around the 1.5km mark, the guide took us up a hill to a cluster of stones, originally a hermit cell. It’s an ancient ruin nestled into the side of the hill, built by a devout Christian hermit – or so the legend says. Whether it was built by a hermit or shepherds wanting shelter, the structure is centuries old and pretty special to visit.

The terrain was interesting to traverse. Much of the ground is either boggy or a mixture of reeds and sphagnum moss, which looks dry and stable but is actually full of spring water. So as soon as you step on it, down you go! It caught out a few people wearing sneakers. Not me though, thank you Gore-tex Merrells 😉

To be honest, I found the landscape a little unnerving. If you hike regularly in forests and bush trails, a space devoid of any vegetation higher than your knee is ‘interesting’. There were rocky outcrops covered in lichen and magnificent views down to a grey and menacing sea. The hike was very much about the environment and what we were walking through – very different and visually confronting.

There were gates and stiles to navigate and at about 3km we went over a stile that marked the high point, we were officially in the middle of the island. Occasionally we passed flocks of sheep and their cute little black headed lambs.

Side note – Iona is home to seven crofts (little rented farmlets), two larger farms and over 1,000 native sheep. The wee black headed ones are Suffolk or Scotch Mule breeds. I know this as I may have spent some time pre-hike at the Iona Wool Store in the village. No judgment please, I like to shop and knit. Two for one! It’s that kind of blog.

We made our way downward, and what did we stumble upon but the local golf course! Well, this is Scotland so I’m not surprised. From what I understand, Scotland is first in the world for the most golf courses per capita. The Iona Golf Course is mown by sheep and cattle, free to play on, and has a wicked 14th hole 😉

Downward we went, and soon we arrived at the ocean, wild, grey, and absolutely breathtaking. We had the beach to ourselves, and forget sand, it was pebbles, grass, and sheep poop. Our final 1.2km was a brisk walk down the main (only) road back toward the village and pier.

I was struck yet again by the stark and windswept nature of the isle, and what it might mean for residents. Looking at the houses, they are all built to capture sunlight when possible, everyone has skylights and glass to make the most of daylight. I saw woodpiles for home fires, which must come in via ferry as there are no forests or trees on the isle.

Such a beautiful and awe-inspiring land to walk across, such a pleasure, such a privilege.

So I did it, two Scottish Isle hikes in two days. WOOOOOOOHOOOOO!

Not the longest of hikes if you read some of my previous blogs, but definitely up there in terms of uniqueness and enjoyment.

The Scottish Isles offer such a range of experiences and opportunities, for all budgets, all mobilities, and all persons. I can absolutely recommend them as a destination for anyone wanting to simultaneously lose and discover themselves hiking. Have a look at visitscotland.com for more info.

See you soon out on the Icelandic trails!

PJ 🙂