Hiking the Bridle Trails in Kent, England

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn Hiking, Uncategorized3 Comments

Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

HOW EXCITING!!! I’m coming to you from the green and lush countryside of Kent, in southern England. Him and me are on holiday for a month, so come with me on some hikes as we make our way through England, Scotland, Iceland, and beyond!

Today we are in Kent, staying in a lovely pub called The Three Chimneys for three nights. The best barman ever (Scott) gave me a local map that showed a range of footpaths and bridle trails which made planning my hike super easy. Three Chimneys has a 350-year history and an association with Sissinghurst Castle that is fascinating, but more on that later…

I thought it prudent to map a hike out the night before and identified Sissinghurst Castle as my preferred destination. To be fair, I did map it out at the same time I sampled the local pressed cider….so buckle in for a bit of an adventure… 🙂

Thursday morning, 6am. I rugged up and left the warmth of our room. The English countryside in spring means it’s light around 5.15am and dusk doesn’t hit until around 8.30pm, so I had the benefit of an early start. However, the air does have a bit of a nip in it, so remember to layer if needed. I also took my phone and checked I had 4G coverage. Safety first hikers!

I was determined to explore the bridle and footpath trails which crisscrossed the countryside. Bridle paths and footpaths are legally protected routes that the public can use on foot or on horseback. It’s even legislated under a national act, the Highways Act 1980! This includes farm fields with cattle, sheep, you name it.

As you can see, my first departure down a footpath (which isn’t a footpath as you think, but merely a sign into a field) was a bit of a bust, it led back to the pub across the paddock. So nope! Back onto the road, and thankfully the next footpath sign was about 150m down and was the correct one. Off I went, the path was freshly mown, and I was on my way. I weaved behind a row of farmhouses feeling quite brave and breathing deeply, loving the fresh bracing air with my merino beanie firmly covering my ears, which don’t like the cold 🙂

I came upon my first stile – how exciting!! The stile opened into a large field with hedgerows on three sides, and two cows…..have a look in the distance and you will see them right down the end of the field. I had a fair idea of where I was aiming for, so off I went. Now, if you haven’t walked through a farming field before, they can be challenging. It’s not the same as walking in a park. Cattle are heavy, usually around 600kg. And in this field, there were two cows. Paying me attention. Which is fine, I grew up on a farm so cows I’m OK with. But this wasn’t my field, my farm, or my cows. Thankfully the inhabitants were two ladies, and guessing from their heavy udders, they may have just weaned some calves. So, starting my brisk walk across the field I had to traverse a terrain that was pockmarked with cattle hoof divots. Definitely not flat and definitely a potential menace to the ankles.

I wasn’t even 100m into the field and I had two escorts…..trotting up to say hello and find out all my business!

Even though I am used to farms and cattle, having two 600kg+ cows cantering up to you is a little intimidating! About now I realised I couldn’t see my exit point in the opposite hedgerow. Imagine this. I’m in a foreign field, with two huge cows tracking me like F18 Hornets, what’s my next move? I saw a gate. To the left. Which opened back onto the lane. Change of plan. Bessie and Biddy would have preferred I stay for a chat, but I had a hike to enjoy and it wasn’t going to end in a boggy field in Biddenden. Two minutes later I scaled a fence and was back out in the lane, a little sweaty and slightly defeated. You can see the loop at the start of my hike tracking pic. SIGH. I ventured down the adjacent lane to see if I could find the next stile, but no luck. Back to the original mission – my castle! The destination is important, but really, hiking is all about the journey.

I knew there was a castle in the vicinity and a range of ways to get there. It was now down to my google map reading skills (and the map Scott gave me) to get there.

You gotta love some of the Kentish road names. HarePlain Rd. Grandshore Lane. DigDog Lane. Lewd Lane. How did these names come about?? The mind boggles.

I loved walking down DigDog Lane to find my castle. I saw the bridle trail markers at about the 2.5km mark so it was time to leave the road and start into the trails proper, thankfully without my friends of the bovine persuasion. And wow, was I in for a fantastic few kms!!! I entered what can only be described as a leafy green otherworld tunnel heading up a gentle slope that seemed to run forever, and I had it all to myself.

This is what I craved, beautiful English countryside trails that ran through rolling fields with a smattering of happy woolly sheep. The trail was very well used, with an equal mix of horse and human prints. Oh. And doggos. I encountered a few during my hike who were having the best day ever! I even had an intimate experience with a very exuberant Dalmatian who left an indelible imprint on me….!

Around 2.8km I encountered what looked like a tiny wooden bus stop, but it was a hide. A hide is a wee structure that people use to observe wildlife, usually birds. Which makes sense as I could hear several very busy ducks in the nearby pond, and in the background, the haunting call of peacocks. Once you hear a peacock call, you’ll never forget it…. magical.

The temperature was cool, but not cold. I had on a long sleeved merino and a sleeveless puffer, and heading uphill I was starting to feel quite warm. Around the 3.5km mark I took a right hand turn and had an orchard on my left, and a bluebell forest on my right. Stunning.

By the time I reached the 4km mark, I started to think I had overshot my castle. I was still on the bridle path, but had gone past a couple of farm houses, and seemed to be heading for another main road (not my fav place to hike). I had also passed a large estate called Horse Race House. Now, I’m about to say some not very nice things about the owners of Horse Race House. Skip on if you don’t want to read my savage interpretation of some Kent locals!

So, imagine buying a heritage house and woods adjacent to a national park and castle. You have land, I’m guessing a few acres, and you are next to a bridle path. The public uses the land all around you. So, what do you do? Go with the flow? Hell no. You put up as many unfriendly signs as possible which, TBH I didn’t see anywhere else in four days of wandering, and label yourself as a bit of a tosspot. All these signs were along a 300m section of the path. SIGH.

I did a u-turn just after Horse Race House (a great name!) and came back down the bridle path hill. I had gone through a couple of forks in the path on my way up, so one of those was going to be my next destination. What’s the saying? “when you come to a fork in the road, take it”. I knew one of the forks would take me to my castle.

YAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAY!!! I found my castle at 5.5km. I knew it was there, I just had to take the right bridle path.

My castle isn’t the biggest. It’s not the oldest or the most famous. But at about 7am I found it. And it was all mine to explore. I saw the castle vegetable garden that generates over 6 tonnes of produce a season for the local castle restaurant. I saw the perfectly preserved Oast hop kilns that dry hops to make beer. I saw the barn where French prisoners of war lived during the Seven Years’ War which kicked off in 1756. The POWs were allowed out on parole to venture as far as the Three Chimneys Pub, which they called Tres Chemins (three junctions)…which over the generations, morphed into Three Chimneys. I think there may be quite a few descendants in the area!!

I wandered around the moat and grounds which are expertly managed by the National Trust. I felt honoured to have this perfect castle all to myself on a still spring morning. As hikers would understand, the best hikes not only ground your day, but they fill your soul.

All good things must, however, come to an end. It was time to leave my castle. I had maybe 3-4km back to my digs and no firm plan on how to get there. I chose the bridle trail that made sense, in the general direction of my destination. I was sidetracked at the 6km mark with the Frogmead restoration project, but it’s important to appreciate the land you’re hiking through. And who doesn’t love a frog!

I found DigDog Lane, more by luck than design. The narrow hedgerow lanes are quiet and intimate. The barman at Three Chimneys said the drummer from Cold Play lives in DigDog Lane…I can’t confirm or deny, but I kept my eyes peeled for fancy cars and tinted windows!

If you want to experience a hike that you definitely WON’T forget, I can absolutely recommend Kent and Sissinghurst. I stayed at a 350 year old pub, ate some incredible food, met some warm and friendly locals, hiked in the English countryside and I found my very own castle.

How can you top that???!!! (stay tuned to find out), and see you out on the English, Scottish, and Icelandic trails.

PJ

The Blog about NOT HIKING…

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn Hiking, Uncategorized2 Comments

Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

Ahhhh, the enjoyment of a hike. Getting your pack ready, pouring over hiking maps, deciding on your snacks, your gear, the timing, then actually getting there and having a fantastic day.

EXCEPT.

When you don’t.

HIKING IN QUEENSLAND SUMMERS

I’m very lucky to live in a beautiful part of Australia. Queensland is an outdoor pursuits paradise and as they say, it’s beautiful one day and perfect the next. I can drive one hour south and been in the middle of the Gondwana Forest. An hour north puts me in a subtropical rainforest wonderland.

For nine months of the year, hiking in Queensland is a pure delight. For the other three months, it can be positively hazardous to your health.

Let me tell you why…..in escalating order of threat to safety and sanity….

#1 Hazard – Leeches

Or scientifically speaking, the Gnathobdellida (jawed leech). Leeches are closely related to earthworms, but act very differently especially when hikers are around!

Leeches are common on the ground or in foliage in rain forests. They are sanguivorous, blood sucking parasites that feed on preferred hosts like kangaroos, possums, padymelons, birds, frogs and HIKERS.

My first encounter with leeches was about 10 years ago when I did a short hike in Lamington National Park. The waterfalls were in full flow, the birds were singing, the sun was shining and it was a great day….until I got back to the car and took my boots off. There, tucked into the top of my socks and firmly attached to my legs were about eight leeches.

They ranged in size from a thin worm (like above) to fat black sausages the size of a thumb, all pulsing in sheer delight as they feasted. To say I panicked was an understatement. I didn’t know anything about leeches, how to remove them, what to do….so I ripped them all off as I hopped and cursed around the car. Not a pretty sight.

I now know that leeches are not painful, nor are they poisonous. In fact, you rarely know you have one on yo, so they are rather polite creatures. They inject an anticoagulant/anaesthetic as part of their feeding process so when they’re removed, you continue to bleed for quite some time. Leeches aren’t dangerous but they rate quite high in the YUK category so prevention is much better than cure.

TIP

Carry either bug repellent or a Ziploc of salt, either will easily remove a feasting leech. I liberally spray myself with bug repellent before I hike and this seems to keep most creepy crawlies at bay. Remember to spray BEFORE you put on socks, pants etc as they just love to burrow under clothing…

#2 Hazard – Ticks

So now we head into more dangerous territory. Ticks are parasites that feed on human and animal blood, They can vary in size from a pinhead to a fingernail, and they need blood to grow. Unlike leeches which drop off once finished, ticks stay attached to their hosts and feed for several days. Depending on the species of tick, this longevity can make the host quite sick.

Hikers are susceptible to ticks in summer. I went on a two day group hike last October, and ticks were literally dropping out of the trees onto us. Each rest break involved some serious tick inspections, with several of the group removing ticks from chests, groins and even ears!

Tick season runs from the end of winter, through spring and into summer, with ticks being most active during periods of high humidity, which in Queensland is summer.

Just because it’s Australia, we have a tick called Ixodes holocyclus, or the Australian Paralysis Tick.

This nasty causes paralysis by injecting neurotoxins into its host. Tick paralysis is most often seen in animals but humans can also be affected.

Locating and removing ticks early is important as human reactions can range from itching, to full blown allergies, and respiratory distress. There is a saying in Australia, “freeze it, don’t squeeze it” which means, don’t try to pull the tick off as often its head remains embedded…along with the toxins. Instead use a pressurised cryoliquid product like Tick Off to kill the tick.

TIP

I carry Tick Off as part of my first aid kit when I hike. I haven’t needed to use it (but friends have) and it works by killing the tick, which then drops off. I do know some hikers who are confident to tweezer ticks out, and there’s a tale that you can remove them safely by twisting them out anticlockwise but I will stick with the spray thanks!

#3 Hazard – Snakes

The one thing that will strike fear in my heart is the thought of a snake bite when I’m hiking. But really, how prevalent are snakes when out hiking in summer?

In Queensland more that 800 people were bitten by snakes annually in 2020-2022. In January 2023, 97 people were bitten.

As snakes are cold blooded, these encounters happen during our summer months when the slithery critters are on the move for food or a mate. Interestingly, most snake bites occur when people are trying to interact with a snake, to move it or kill it. 90% of these bites happen in people’s homes or back yards and not all snakes are venomous.

So, statistically, my chance of being bitten by a venomous snake when out hiking is pretty low. Doesn’t change how I feel about it though!

I have only ever seen two snakes out hiking. One was a lovely emerald tree snake sunning itself on a trail and the other was a death adder, also snoozing on a trail. Both scarpered pretty quickly.

My philosophy is to treat all wildlife with healthy caution, especially snakes. Given they are much more active in summer, I’m very happy for them to have the bush for those months, and I’ll hike in the cooler months 🙂

TIP

Snakes aren’t aggressive unless they are threatened, so if you come across a snake, stand still and wait to see where it goes. Then you go the other way, letting it disappear. Whatever you do, don’t try to move it, touch it or scare it. They sense the vibrations in the ground as you approach and are usually long gone before you even see them.

#4 Hazard – Dehydration

I bet you were expecting me to name another dreaded Aussie insect or animal as my highest summer hiking hazard – but NO!

From my experience, the most hazardous aspect of hiking in a Queensland summer is dehydration. Temperatures can reach well over 35 degrees (95+f) by mid-morning and any strenuous prolonged exercise can trigger dangerous dehydration. And our 2023-2024 summer has been brutal with a number of heatwaves lasting days.

The worts part about dehydration is you may not even know its happening. Feeling thirsty means you’ve gone too long without fluids and a dry mouth and decreased energy could be mistaken for a response to summer heat. Another good trick to stay alert for dehydration is the “umbles”. Stumbling, mumbling, grumbling and fumbling are all signs that you need to stop and hydrate.

The added challenge for staying hydrated in summer is that water alone isn’t going to cut it. Your body needs electrolytes and minerals such as potassium, magnesium and zinc. When I hike in hotter months, I use a dual water bladder so I can carry plain water in one chamber and electrolytes in the second chamber. And when you think you’ve packed enough fluid, throw in another bottle because you just might need it! The general rule of thumb for hydration while hiking in heat is one litre per hour.

TIP

If you are hiking in summer, hydrate BEFORE you start, Chug down 500-750ml of fluid in the hour before you hit the trail. When you’re hiking, take small, frequent sips. My water bladder has a great mouth piece that I thread through my shoulder straps and it sits nicely near my neck, handy for sipping. Finally, continue to hydrate AFTER you’re done, using electrolytes or a sports supplement like DripDrop or Skratch in at least 1 litre of water.

In Summary…

So there we are. My top four reasons for not hiking in the height of summer in Queensland.

It’s a personal preference only, and of course, anyone can enjoy hiking in any season and not experience discomfort, but I really enjoy my hikes and I don’t want to be panicking about sucky, slithery, bitey creatures!!

The threat of leeches, ticks, snakes and heat keep me off the trails for just a few months, but trust me, the rest of the year I’m out there having a ball!

See you out on the trails (very soon)

PJ

Backpack Hacks: What You Really Need for a No-Regret Day Hike

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn UncategorizedLeave a comment

Ahhh, the day hike. Nature’s cure for office chair back pain, screen-induced headaches and that nagging feeling that you’ve forgotten how the sun feels on your face. But there’s one tiny hurdle between you and hiking bliss: packing your backpack. Some might think, “its just a few hours, how hard can it be?” Well, let me tell you, it’s a lot harder than it seems if you’re the newbie who brought sunnies, a phone and no water.

Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or just fancy a stroll up and down a few hills, packing the right gear is key. So, let’s dive into the essential items every hiker should pack, and, equally important, the rookie mistakes you want to avoid.

1. Water: Your Best Friend

It sounds obvious, but you’d be surprised how many people underestimate their water needs. A good rule of thumb is to pack at least two litres for a moderate day hike. Add more if you’re hiking in summer, or on a challenging trail.

Hydration bladders are great because they fit snugly into your pack and you can sip as you hike without stopping. I have a 2L single, and a 2 x 1L double, both from Kathmandu. With the tubing conveniently on my backpack strap, I can rehydrate whenever I feel like it.

Rookie Mistake – Thinking a bottle of water is enough for an all day hike. It’s not. Unless you’re Bear Grylls and are prepared to drink from a dirty old stream, pack extra.

2. Snacks: Fuel for the Soul (and the legs)

Nothing says “I’m one with nature” like eating a protein snack bar halfway up a mountain. Seriously though, hiking burns calories and unless you enjoy that rumbling feeling on the way back to the car, pack plenty of snacks. Think nuts, fruit, highly dense protein and carb options that will keep you full. Even a good old sandwich does the trick.

snack time on the trail!

Rookie Mistake – forgetting snacks altogether, or worse, packing snacks that are highly fragile or perishable. I once packed sushi (which I thought was a great choice). Nope. It disintegrated during the hike because of the rough trail….! Stick to non-perishables that won’t turn into a science experiment by midday.

3. First Aid Kit: For when Nature Fights Back

You might think,” it’s only a day hike, I won’t need a first aid kit.” And that’s exactly when you’ll get a blister the size of a $1 coin, get poked in the head by a nasty branch, or discover the joys of a tick bite. A basic kit should include bandaids, wipes, painkillers or anti-imflammatories. Trust me, the one time you don’t pack it will be the time you trip over that rock and wish you had.

My kit when I hiked Kumano Kodo
An absolute must for Queensland hiking

Rookie Mistake – Thinking a first aid kit is for “serious” hikes only. Even a short trail can deliver some nasty surprises (hello trips, falls and ticks)

4. Navigation Tools: GPS and Maps

You may be thinking, “I have my phone, why would I need a map?” Well, my friend, phone batteries die, GPS signals drop, and then there you are, lost in the wilderness, trying to find the Wi-Fi password of the nearest tree. Maps are lightweight and definitely don’t need charging.

Laminated maps that live in my backpack

Rookie Mistake – relying solely on your phone for navigation. Fun fact, phones don’t always work in the middle of nowhere and no, your phone flashlight doesn’t count as a backup plan.

5. Clothing: Playing the Weather Guessing Game

Here’s a fun game nature likes to spring on hikers. It’s called “Guess What the Weather Will Do Next!” You’ll be sweating one moment and freezing the next, so layers are your best friend. Pack a lightweight waterproof jacket and bring an extra layer for warmth. Even on warm days, the temperature can drop, especially at higher elevations. I’ve been hiking along a ridge in Binna Burra and gone from a t-shirt to a jumper, beanie, gloves and jacket within 2km and 20 minutes.

Contents of my backpack for a 40km hiking challenge in winter in Queensland. The mint green mound is my rolled up jacket!

Rookie Mistake – dressing for how it feels when you walk out the door. It might be sunny and warm now, but trust me, by the time you reach the summit, that singlet and shorts combo will be a regret you feel deep in your soul.

6. Sun Protection: Slip, Slop, Slap !

Down here in Australia, sun protection is a big deal. We are taught to slip on a shirt, slop on sunscreen and slap on a hat from before we can walk! Trust me, nothing ruins a good hike like turning into a human tomato. Sunscreen is a must, even if it’s overcast because UV rays don’t care about pesky things like clouds. I always have a hiking hat with me, I’m sure you’ve seen it in my photos! Added bonus, hats protect you from ticks that love to drop from the tree canopies…

Rookie Mistake – “It’s cloudy, I don’t need a hat or sunscreen.” If I had a dollar for every sunburnt hiker, I could afford to install shade sails across every trail in Queensland.

7. Hikers Wool: The Best Thing You Never Knew You Needed

I’ve waxed poetic in previous blogs about the undiscovered hero of hiking, Hikers Wool. It’s a kiwi product, and is a godsend for sore feet and toes on hikes. Use it to relieve pressure spots or in between your toes for support. It is a permanent fixture in my backpack.

Rookie Mistake – not taking some form of product to manage blisters. Your feet are the one tool you can’t replace on a hike, and even experienced hikers can suffer from blisters. Throw in some bandaids and some wool, all sorted!

8. Emergency Shelter: Because Sometimes Sh*# Happens

Even if you’re just out for the day, pack something for emergency shelter, something as simple as a space blanket. Hopefully you’ll never need it, but it’s a game changer if something does go wrong and you’re stuck on the trail longer than you planned. I have a couple of ‘crunchie wrappers’ in the bottom of my pack (crunchie because its gold on one side, silver on the other!) They take up very little room but I know I’ve got them if sh*# happens.

Rookie Mistake – Thinking a day hike means no emergency gear. Day hikes can turn into night hikes if you get lost, injured, or take a detour that your mate swore by!

9. Headlamp: When Flashlight-in-Teeth Isn’t a Good Look

Scrambling down the side of a mountain trail in the dark with your phone clamped in your teeth? Not ideal. Avoid the dental drama and pack a lightweight headlamp instead. Did you know that dusk in the bush comes 60-90 minutes before everywhere else?? A lamp is perfect for those “oops, I guess we’re hiking after dusk” moments.

Rookie Mistake – Assuming you’ll always beat the sunset. One day on Kumano Kodo, the trail was harder and longer than we planned, and the last hour we were barrelling down the mountain, wanting to be clear before we lost light! Nature’s got no respect for your itinerary…

Conclusion: Hike Smart, Not Hard

So, there you have it. Pack the essentials, avoid rookie mistakes, and you’ll be on your way to a glorious day on the trails. Or at least, you’ll be prepared when your mate shows up with nothing but flip-flops and a can of fizzy drink, saying “I thought we were just going for a stroll?!“

See you out on the trails

PJ 😉

Toolona Creek Circuit – your beautiful hike awaits!

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn Gold Coast Hinterland, Hiking, mental health, Outdoors, UncategorizedLeave a comment

Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

It’s Been A While…

Looking at my blog, it’s been a while since I’ve shared. That’s not to say I haven’t been hiking, but I’ve also been working and travelling, which unfortunately has cut into my blogging time.

However – I’m back and ready to share some of the great hikes I’ve done in the last couple of months.

Toolona Creek Circuit

What a stunning hike – and it’s all yours to explore. Hidden away in the Green Mountains section of Lamington National Park, Toolona is a half day circuit, starting and finishing at O’Reillys Rainforest Retreat. Strava advises that I hiked 18.6km that day and Fitness says 18.3km so safe to say, 18.5km is the distance.

Maps make life easy

The Toolona Circuit provides a shady and protected experience for hikers and is a true rainforest paradise sitting around 1,000m above sea level, complete with a plethora of waterfalls and creek crossings to keep you entertained. Along with the rainforest encounter comes the risk of creepy crawlies, but more on that later…

I departed obscenely early to get up to O’Reillys by 6 a.m. I realised that I was hiking on a weekend during the school holidays , so if I wanted a quiet experience on the trail, an early start was essential. It was a lot cooler up in the Green Mountains, I had packed my raincoat and a lightweight merino jumper, but left my gloves and headwrap at home – rookie mistake!

Chillier than I thought!
Lush, green, beautiful

The track early in the morning was made cooler with a light drizzle. Happily, the mist dampened down the dusty track, and as I ploughed through cobwebs, I realised I was the first hiker on the track 🙂

The Department of Environment recommends Toolona to be walked clockwise, although now that I’ve hiked it, it can be walked either way. As with any circuit involving creeks and waterfalls, you will have a hike down, and then the corresponding hike back up. I started off on the Main Border Track and at 1.7km, took the signposted left hand turn to start Toolona proper. Once on the trail, it starts gently descending down through the forest.

Switchbacks start around 2.4km and the gradient got steeper. At 3km another junction appeared, and I had the choice of going to Box Forest Circuit or Toolona, so just follow the directions which are very clear and well posted. I started to encounter creek crossings and little secret waterfalls…it was just lovely. It was very obvious that the whole area is quite low on rainfall so far this season. Some crossings were completely dry and I didn’t get wet feet at all during the day.

Picnic Rock – and the Creepy Crawlies!

About 3.5km down the circuit I arrived at Picnic Rock. As the name suggests, this is one of the lower points of the hike and is a small enclave nestled against the hillside, with a picturesque waterfall and smooth rocks to perch on while you have morning tea and admire the surroundings.

I stopped here for coffee and a snack, and about 23 seconds after I finished this wee video, I found a leech who was attached to my sleeve and determined to find some skins to make his snack!!!!

CAUTION – Creepy Crawlies

Leeches, ticks and other fauna are a fact of life when hiking. The time of year does make a difference in Australia – ticks seem to come out during spring and summer, and leeches just love the wet, however both can be present any time of the year. Right now, both are present in South East Queensland. It’s important to be aware of the risks they pose – and prepare accordingly.

So there I was, flailing around Picnic Rock trying to dislodge the leech. First he suckered from my arm to my finger, and then as I flicked him, he suckered onto my other hand. It was all a bit frantic! I found my bug repellent and emptied most of the can onto my hand, and then sprayed a fog over every body surface. Backpack was hurriedly packed up and I made haste up the hill away from the leech infested Picnic Rock….

I really did think they were chasing me up the hill….I did the first 2km up in record time…..I really don’t like leeches :O

TIP – FIRST AID FOR CREEPY CRAWLIES

There are two main perpetrators when hiking in Queensland (apart from snakes and just steer clear of those). Leeches are the lesser ones and can be dislodged with either bug repellent or salt. They inject an anticoagulant and an anaesthetic so you won’t feel them but after a while you can certainly see them 🙂 Ticks are more treacherous and left in situ can cause problems. I haven’t been ‘ticked’ but people say it’s like a small bee sting. You will know when you have one. There are products which direct a jet of liquid nitrogen at them, they freeze and you wait for them to fall out, OR you can remove them, keeping the body and head intact. I’m told that you twist them out counter clockwise as they burrow in clockwise. If you can’t remove the whole tick, it’s off to the doctor to have it extracted. Preventative wise, I’ve found that a very thorough bug repellent spray before and after getting dressed works….

Moving Onward and Upward

After my leech encounter, I passed a lovely swimming hole which I imagine is very popular in summer. The track was becoming narrower and rougher as I wound my way up the other side of the gorge. As I crisscrossed the creek, the waterfalls, although gentle, were quite beautiful. For those of you who enjoy forest bathing, it was an absolute delight.

Me red faced after running up the hill away from the wild rampant leech

The misty rain had certainly come down the side of the mountain, and at the 10km mark I re-joined the Main Border Track. Up on the ridge it was windy and raining, my coat was on and I was moving to stay warm! There was time for a couple of lookouts, but I was keen to clear the ridge and the wind.

I made it off the eastern ridge after the turnoff to Bithongabel Lookout and once I headed west at 12km, the wind and rain stopped, and I was back in the calm forest oasis that is the beauty of the Gondwana Rainforest. Estimated to be over 100 million years in the making, this area of Queensland is a superb example of the forest mosaic that makes Gondwana a world heritage listed site.

?

No more wind, no more rain, just me and a glorious forest. Walking through the dappled sunlight with the delicious earthy loamy smell of the leaves underfoot is such a happy thing to experience.

Before I knew it, the O’Reillys paved path was in front of me, which means the end of my hike was near.

I completed Toolona in just under five hours. I hiked around 18.5km, climbed around 470m and my average heart rate was 137 (we aren’t counting the spike when I ran away from the marauding leech).

Slippers, hot chips and wine…
Note the eastern ridge on the far right – wind and rain galore!

The fun bit about finishing at O’Reillys is they have a great café where I got hot chips for my drive home. I may have also picked up some O’Reillys wine, which is *chefs kiss*.

In Summary

Toolona is a half day trail, family friendly and a good beginner hike that can easily be achieved by all levels of fitness. I absolutely recommend this as a way to immerse yourself in a stunningly beautiful part of Queensland and hey – who doesn’t like hot chips as a reward for escaping the marauding leeches??!

See you out on the trails 😉

PJ

THE HIKE THAT WENT WRONG….!

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn Gold Coast Hinterland, Hiking, mental health, Outdoors, Uncategorized4 Comments

Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog.

I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

Ahhh – Kokoda Gold Coast 2023. My friend Fran and I decided that we would register for the new 30km Kokoda Challenge.

And then it went wrong! OUCH 😮

The Kokoda Challenge

The Kokoda Challenge is Australia’s toughest team endurance event that raises funds for programs run by the Kokoda Youth Foundation. Events are held mainly in Queensland (Brisbane, Sunshine Coast and Gold Coast) and in New South Wales (Lake Macquarie).

For those of you not from the Antipodes, Kokoda is referring to the 1942 Kokoda Campaign in Papua New Guinea, where Australian troops and local infantry battled the advancing Japanese army to protect access to the local airfield. The challenge distances ( 96km and under ) represent the real Kokoda Track distance of 96km and the history of Kokoda is recognised and honoured by many Australians, with many families having generational ties to the campaign.

Kokoda on the Gold Coast

I’ve hiked Kokoda 48km twice before. The first time was in 2016 as part of a work team and then again in 2021 with my sister TB and her two daughters. Our team was aptly named “SistasnBlistas” 🙂

I’ve not tried the 96km, not sure if I have the intestinal fortitude to tackle it but… never say never.

The 30km was a new addition to Kokoda Gold Coast in 2023 and meant that we could sign up with a short training lead time. I regularly hike 20+ so 30km was very achievable.

Hikers – Start Your Engines!

My Kokoda buddy Fran is a hiker from way back. She used to volunteer with NSW Rural Fire Service and spent many days hiking in the Blue Mountains so she was keen to flex a bit of hiking muscle for Kokoda. Our hike started at 2pm at Little Clagiraba Reserve. We kicked off along with what felt like 3,000 school teams – but was probably only about 300 kids. There was a little bit of a kerfuffle delay with the start shute as it led straight into a narrow creek crossing and a single file track, but once we hit the start line we were off! Thankfully it was a mild, cloudy Queensland winter day so perfect conditions for hiking.

The official opening
Fancy dunnies!
The swathe of participants
A fantastic drum team send-off

Section 1 – Up a Hill and Down Again

So the start of the 30km is actually the support crew location for the 48 and 96km. Once you go through the start shute, its 2.6km straight up.

In 2016 and 2021, you could sit at your support crew camp, have a bit to eat and a rest while you watch the headlamps twinkle as teams wound their way up the side of the mountain. A bit different for the 30km as it’s the first thing you do – slog up a huge hill!

We climbed 250m as we hiked 2.6km pretty much straight upward. Underfoot was shale and rock, and boy was it dusty. Lots of feet kicking up dust as everyone climbed. It was slow, and still quite warm. Took about an hour to make it up to the top with little stops to catch our breath.

Steep and dusty
The ribbons on the right denote the correct track direction

We crested the top of the hill and came into a lovely grassy meadow, the perfect place to stop and take a short break. It also allowed some of the larger school teams to move off and we could then hike with a little more peace and quiet 😉

10 minute RnR
Coffee time!

What’s in the Backpack?

Pleased you asked.

Packing for a 30km hike is a bit of a hybrid. It’s 10 hours and crosses from day into night. We had planned to complete the 30km before midnight, so averaging 3km an hour. Food and water was a must. The Kokoda organisers also require to you have a high vis vest as we cross a couple of large roads, a whistle, a first aid kit and we needed to download an emergency finder app. I included a couple of layers – merino wool, as well as a beanie, gloves and my trusty raincoat. Then I had assorted items – headphones, headlamp and batteries, two mobiles, drugs, antiseptic wipes, hikers wool and…here is what I packed…

Clockwise from 6pm we have raincoat, food, coffee, scarf, tops, extra socks, glasses, earbuds, high vis vest, space blankets, wipes, gloves and hat, gaiters, bags, hikers will and water bladder. Fran carried the first aid kit and whistle 🙂

After our little rest at the top of the hill we then walked along the ridge, with stunning views down to the Gold Coast glitter strip. The weather turned on some lovely mild temperatures and the cloud cover was just perfect. After walking for 3km on shale and rocks, the grassy paths were very welcome. It was then time to start walking downhill to Nathan Valley where the first checkpoint was located – which transitioned us onto a local road.

Of course hikers know what goes down, must go up…..!

Lovely softness underfoot
Gold Coast skyline
Nathan Valley Rd

Section 2 – Into the Forest and Disaster!

Committing to the Kokoda Challenge means you need to travel through the requisite checkpoints and pass over the electronic pads to record your progress. Importantly, teams need to pass through the checkpoints together – for safety as well as reflecting Kokoda mateship. Nobody gets left behind.

Fran and I arrived at the first checkpoint in good shape and really enjoying the hike so far. We had come about 6km, and it was late afternoon. Time for another photo, and toilet break and steeling ourselves for the next big mountain climb.

Checkpoint 1 for 30km hikers

We crossed over Maudsland Rd, tracked alongside it for a bit and entered into Nerang National Park proper. We had another big hill to hike up, around 200m and 2km. Again, we were back on the shale and rock hiking underfoot, which can be quite punishing on the soles of your feet.

Again with the Sweaty Betty’s!
Glorious Track Sunset

Around 5pm we were almost at the top – and disaster struck!

Fran injured herself…!

Not badly, but enough for us to stop and have a bit of a think about what the rest of the hike was going to look like. She was already hiking with a knee brace so this wasn’t a good thing.

It was heading into dusk – so it was headlamps on and darkness was upon us.

You can see a team ahead of us on the track 🙂

A decision needed to be made. Could Fran keep going and finish the 30km or did we need to cut our hike short and live to fight another day?

I’m very pragmatic about my hiking, and given that I’m over the half century mark, keeping my body intact is important. A quinquagenarian doesn’t bounce back injury wise as quickly as a quadranscentennial – sad but true.

Decisions decisions…

As you can see below, the 30km map involved a loop in the forest, and the 48km map was a shorter distance back to the finish. Unfortunately I didn’t have the two maps to look at when we were deciding what to do, but instead referenced the challenge signage on the track, so we made the call to hike the remainder of the 48km challenge route, estimating it would take us to the finish in 10km, rather than 20km…

What I should have done is taken the short route to Checkpoint 13 and then dropped down to the finish. Lesson learned.

Our pace slowed a bit, which was OK as we knew we only had about 10km to cover. We still had some hills and valleys, but they were a lot smaller. I reckon there were about 500 hikers looping around following the blue route, and the fast 48km hikers were also coming through, so it was a busy couple of hours. Lots of dust being kicked up…!

Checkpoint 13 is about 4km from the finish. We stopped there for a break so Fran could rest up and make sure she could walk out. There were a few younger hikers parked up there waiting for first aid and 4×4 pickups, but Fran was emphatic she wanted to walk to the end and finish – even if it was a shorter distance.

So, the earbuds went in and the podcasts went on – and we walked.

The finish line is down the bottom of a gentle hill, and you can see the lights and hear the loudspeakers so it’s a fantastic atmosphere. Fran was in a fair bit of pain by now so it was a very welcome sight.

We crossed around 9pm, having just clocked over 20km. Unfortunately you can only walk through the fancy finish line and they read your names out AND your time AND there are a million enthusiastic supporters clapping etc…. 😮 . It was lovely but we hadn’t done 30km and Fran just really wanted to get off her feet.

DONE.DOT.COM

I emailed the organisers the next day, explained the situation and asked them to take us off the finish board, and put us on the ‘incomplete’…..we didn’t want credit for something we didn’t actually do.

In Summary…

The Kokoda Challenge is a terrific event and one really worth doing.

30km vs 48km – lots to say 🙂

It was the first time the 30km distance was offered and it was chaotic at the start. It was full of school teams, including primary schools kids so if you are a regular hiker, I’d avoid the 30km. I found it too visually and audibly frantic. The route quickly became littered with the emotional wailings of young people realising that a challenge is exactly that….We passed one young person halfway up a hill who was refusing to take another step and was throwing the hugest hissy fit. I felt very sorry for the exasperated, yet very patient teacher.

The other thing about the 30km is most of it is walking around the Nerang National Forest. You loop back and forth for 20km on a kind of circuit. Kokoda training hikes are often done in Nerang due to the fact that you finish there, so for me it was hours hiking on ground that I’ve already spent quite a bit of time on….meh.

Consider training for and entering the 48km. I’ve done it twice and it’s such a great event, you get to walk on private land, army land – places that you would not be able to access. And importantly, it’s a track that goes in one direction, from start to finish, and because of the distance, teams are more prepared and committed.

It’s important to remember- any hike is a great experience. You will be out in nature, having a wonderful time and along with any challenge comes the huge sense of achievement when you finish. Injured or not!

See you out on the trails 😉

PJ

THE MAIN BORDER TRACK – EXPLORING LAMINGTON NATIONAL PARK

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn Gold Coast Hinterland, Hiking, mental health, Outdoors, UncategorizedLeave a comment

Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog.

I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

Today we are exploring the Main Border Track in Lamington National Park, in the Gold Coast hinterland. A track that’s been making hikers happy for almost 100 years.

A Weekend Escape!

It was time for me to return to my hiking roots, and what better way than a hike in the South East Queensland corner. Other Half (OH) and I had a birthday weekend planned at O’Reilly’s Retreat, a delightful tourist destination high in the McPherson Ranges, a two hour drive from the coast. Another reason to go to O’Reilly’s was to finally hike the Main Border Track!

O’Reilly’s Retreat is embedded in Queensland history. It was founded in 1926 by the O’Reilly family when an attempt at dairy farming in the ranges failed. To be fair, they bought the land sight unseen, and there was NO WAY dairy farming was going to be possible in the mountainous and uncleared forest. So, rather than selling milk and cheese, they started selling eco-tourism. O’Reilly’s gained global fame in 1937 when Bernard O’Reilly tramped for three days through impenetrable forest to locate a downed Australian National Airways flight missing enroute from Brisbane to Sydney with seven people on board. A nationwide search for over a week failed to find any sign of the plane, but Bernard had a good idea where it may have come down, based on his knowledge of the area, the storm patterns and down drafts. Because of Bernard, the two survivors were rescued 10 days after the crash and reunited with loved ones.

The Main Border Track

The Main Border Track runs between O’Reilly’s Resort and Binna Burra. It was built in July 1937 in two sections, with one crew cutting in from O’Reilly’s toward the second track crew working in from Binna Burra. It took 50 men 18 months to join the 22km track.

FUN FACT

As the crow flies, O’Reilly’s and Binna Burra are only 6km apart. However, the track is 22km as it winds its way around escarpments and ranges, and the drive from one to the other is over 70km!

The track can be walked in either direction. I caught a shuttle from O’Reilly’s to Binna Burra and walked back. Mary, our driver, is a long term employee at O’Reilly’s and had lots of tips and fascinating information about the area, the Track and whether leeches are around in winter. They are but only come out when it rains…

We departed around 7.45am, which put me at Binna Burra around 9.15am and I was off! Mary advised that most hikers tend to pop out the other end somewhere around 4pm, so a hike time was anticipated of around 6 hours. That was my goal, and it also meant I would be off the track before forest dusk.

Starting the Track…0-5km

It was a bit chilly…lovely Icelandic head wrap
Follow the signs

The commencement of the Border Track is pretty simple. You walk under the arch – and you have started! Lamington National Park is very good with signage, and the Track is very well signposted from start to finish.

Don’t be freaked out when the first sign you see has “Green Mountains” as the destination, not O’Reilly’s. Green Mountains is a section of Lamington National Park and the day use area is adjacent to O’Reilly’s so they are one in the same. Your end goal is Green Mountains 🙂

Green Mountains here I come
Misty and lovely

The first few kilometres are a gentle incline away from Binna Burra. You will be climbing several hundred metres upward over the first half of the track, but it’s gentle. This part of the track is taking you up the side of the Beechmont Range, with Coomera Gorge to your right. There are several circuit walks and tracks intersecting with the Border Track, just keep an eye on the signage.

About 3.7km in, I arrived at the first lookout, Joalah, and my first glimpse of a view. The vegetation has been growing vigorously since the last fires came through, so I wasn’t holding out much hope for clear lookouts. I stopped for a photo and a coffee. Those of you familiar with my Kumano Kodo blogs will remember the trusty Thermos – it was ready to go in my backpack!

The track has a primordial forest feel. It was an overcast winters day with lots of low cloud and mist blowing up from the south. I had the place to myself and there was an abundance of trees and flora to look at as I walked. Until you get on the Border Track proper (no criss cross trails) the path is wide and flat. Once you move beyond other trails, the track narrows considerably, and is strewn with rocks and root systems.

Regular obstacles…
But lots of ‘middle earth’ landscapes to make it worthwhile…

CAUTION – EYES ON THE PRIZE

Foot placement and managing the terrain are two really important aspects of hiking. It’s unusual to be on a hike where you don’t ever have to look down to navigate the terrain. Sometimes it feels that you can’t lift your head as you are forever looking down to plan your next safe step. Beware the temptation to look at a map or your phone while mobile, chances are you’ll stack. That’s the fun of hiking, keeping your eyes on the prize and staying upright…

Getting into a Rhythm…5-10km

I must admit, rocks and root systems aren’t my favourite terrain, but you play the cards you’re dealt. As I moved through the 5km mark I was feeling great. The track narrowed again and became a little rougher. There were a few creek crossings, and whilst not in full flow, they weren’t dry either so it was a careful transit across Hobwee Creek at 5.7km, Bower Bird Creek at 6.3km and Dragoon Bird Creek at 7km.

Dragoon crossing was a slippery sucker! I can only imagine what it would be like at the height of summer with the creeks roaring with water… you’d need a snorkel and flippers to make it across.

What a great name!

At the 8km mark there was the option to detour to the Dacelo Lookout. So far the southerly had been delivering misty squalls so I decided not to add 2km to my hike to see it. However, at around 8.5km I did sneak off the track (safely and without risk) to take a fabulous photo of the view down into the Woggunba Valley – and lo – the clouds stayed on the western side. Take a look…

How about that for a view???!!!

The attraction of a new trail is discovering new things, sometimes odd things. Along the track I saw stones which appeared to be covered in a light green calcification, not the whole stone but just part of it. No idea what it is, so dear readers, fill me in if you know.

Oh, and then I saw the white stuff which I thought was a type of moss or fungus… ? Got all excited – then I realised what it was…..doh. It’s the underlay put down before gravel.

Photo doesn’t do it justice…..it’s quite stunning
Worked out what it is yet??!!!

Around 9.5km I came across the sign and trail for Mt Marino. A large tree had taken exception to the sign and completely destroyed it. This quickly became the theme for the hike. There were a number of downed trees and vine entanglements to navigate over, under or around. It did provide for some interesting moments as I am not the most flexible of humans and clambering through downed foliage was a bit of a challenge.

Over Halfway…10-15km

It was time for morning tea and a break. The first half of the hike had been a gradual climb upward, with an altitude gain of around 600m. The lookout and rest opportunities had been few and far between so when I came to Chakoonya Lookout which had a view AND a place to sit, I sat.

If you squint a certain way you can see the Gold Coast skyline

The views, when you come across them, are simply spectacular. When you can’t see the distance, you are enveloped in the green hug of the forest. You can see how narrow the track becomes and the vines were that close you are pushing your way through. However, you never feel lost thanks to the stone markers on the track floor, most of which are close to 100 years old.

Single file only
Quite the explorer

By now I was passing hikers coming from the O’Reilly’s side. For about 45 minutes, it was rush hour as we all crossed over. I also passed the original halfway marker, at around 10.5km. Luckily for the American followers, the marker shows our old imperial measurements. The Main Border Track is exactly 14 miles long and thoughtfully it shows the direction and distance for each destination.

Heading back to Binna Burra
More vines!
And my destination…

A few more lookouts, Nyamulli, Wanugara and Tooloona, so more impressive escarpment vantage points. There was a distinct lack of places to sit, which may be a small failing of the track because unless you sit on the ground for a rest, there really is nowhere else to park up. Perhaps I have been spoiled on other hikes where carefully placed rocks and logs provide welcome perching places.

I was starting to count down the kilometres now, and each sign showed that I was getting closer to my destination. I did pass another triangular marker sign, but couldn’t work out the etchings….a mystery for another time 🙂

7.6km to destination
The sun finally breaking through
6.3km to destination

Almost There…15-22km

The Border Track is advertised as a 20km hike. It is, in fact, close to 22km. If you are dead set on accuracy, the last couple of km might be soul destroying so factor this in.

The marker for the last 6km downwards to O’Reilly’s is the Bithongabel Bush Camp sign, which is cryptically signposted as “Bithongabel”.

6km to go!
So pretty

I did a bit of research, and Bithongabel is where keen hikers doing the full immersive experience of the Gold Coast Great Walk can camp overnight. So, once you arrive at this sign you’re almost done, and O’Reilly’s is not far away. The sun was out so the last couple of hours were in dappled sun and on a wider, more forgiving track. It was transitioning from 100% rocks and roots to a springy leaf litter surface. I was definitely in the Antarctic Beech Forest section now.

You’re almost finished when you reach the paved trail, which is about 800m from the end. It was such a lovely sight, as dusk was falling in the forest and the light starting to dim.

I knew that a warm shower and a lovely glass of O’Reilly’s Sparkling Chambourcin was awaiting me, as well as a sumptuous dinner next to a roaring fire. Funny how that put a spark in my step 🙂

Only a few steps left
Border Track FINISHED!
A welcome sight

In Summary…

I’m really pleased that I hiked this track solo. It was great to boost my confidence as a ‘hiker’ and tick off an achievement that was mine alone.

I was prepared. I had food, water, a headlamp, a space blanket and additional clothing in case I was delayed on the track. I sent my Strava beacon to OH, who tracked my progress and came down to meet me at the finish.

The Border Track is challenging, but not insurmountable. It’s beautiful, wild and ancient, and perfect for a solo hike.

Go on, discover what might be in your back yard and as always, embrace the experience.

See you next time out on the trails

PJ 😉

RATING THE RYOKANS – PART TWO

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn Hiking, Kumano Kodo, Onsen, Ryokans, UncategorizedLeave a comment

Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog.

I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

We’re back for the second instalment of “Rating the Ryokans” – with my very mathematical (!) approach that measures ambience, quality, cleanliness, onsen, dining and whether the establishment is Kumano and hiker friendly. In my last blog, TB and I had just departed the fantastic Manseiro in Kii-Katsuura which had a lovely onsen and a truly magical evening dining extravaganza.

TAKATA GREEN LAND (KUMOTORI ONSEN) – SORTA RYOKAN EXPERIENCE…

Our next stop was after our longest and most challenging day on Kumano. We did over 20km on some serious trails, finishing at a little village called Koguchi. We found a dinky corner store where we devoured drinks and snacks while waiting for our hotel shuttle.

Only just noticed that the label is mirrored!
TB and her best friend cup!

We arrived at Takata Green Land – and were perplexed. It looked like a sports complex, or perhaps a school camp destination. There were a number of interconnected buildings and the reception area gave off a very backpacker vibe, complete with worn industrial carpet, vinyl seating, pingpong table and 27,000 vending machines.

The foyer
Our dinky little shuttle van!

Happily our suitcases were waiting for us at reception. Unhappily we had a second floor tatami room and no lift. I almost killed me lifting cases up two flights of stairs after a 20km hike….

The room was very average. Clean, but sadly, much worse for wear with stained, damaged tatami matting, dings and dents in the walls. Such a shame as I suspect that it must have been quite lovely at one point in time. We had shared toilet and sink facilities right outside our room, and as it was very quiet, we pretty much had those to ourselves.

Example of room

The onsen, however, was first rate. Takata Green Land had an outside onsen which we could access via a private walkway. I am not the most graceful gazelle as my family will confirm, so add the complexity of full nudity, cold misty weather, a wet wooden walkway , and speed – and you can imagine the rest. I skidded into the outside hot pool very disgracefully but to the great amusement of my sister and the other onsen users, who were far too polite to show their mirth.

Travel photo of indoors

Unfortunately the onsen experience was the singular highlight of our stay. Post onsen we had high hopes for our evening meal. We were ushered into what looked like a school dining hall, which was doubling as a storage facility. Along two sides of the room were an array of plastic storage containers and boxes stacked ceiling high, and stored against wall was an outdoor canteen arrangement. We were two of the three guests dining that evening, three lonely place settings on a table about 20m long.

The food was fair, with a number of courses including salad, rice, miso, fish and a shabushabu with vegetables. I have to admit, we gave up before dessert and fled to our room.

TB decided that we were staying at the local Hi-De-Hic camp off season and I reckon she was right.

We departed early the next morning to get a bus connection to Hongu and then onto other hiking adventures. We were given a very substantial bento box, which was nice for lunch, well, more like a snack on the bus 🙂

HOTEL SUBARU – ROYKAN/HOT SPRINGS EXPERIENCE

After our Hi-De-Hi experience at Takata Green Land, I hit up Google to see what awaited us at Hotel Subaru. It looked OK – thank goodness.

Our instructions were to finish the hike, take the local bus, alight at the relevant stop and then walk down the road for 1.4km. Righto. There was a bit of excitement as the last half of the walk to the hotel was through a long road tunnel! We scurried through on a narrow pedestrian platform, and I didn’t realise how noisy a car tunnel was – deafening!

As we exited the tunnel – there was Hotel Subaru. It unfolded in front of us with a gigantic outdoor sound shell and fields to the right, and a sweeping driveway which led to the reception area.

Can I say – BEST WELCOME EVER!!!!!!

Name up in lights!
Pretty good prices

Omotenashi was in full swing at Hotel Subaru. The front desk was attentive and very helpful. The hotel lobby was immaculate and had a very well stocked (and modestly priced) convenience store where we could purchase some sake ‘friend cups’.

We had been assigned our only western room for our whole Kumano experience. The staff were very insistent on showing us every feature of the room itself, which took some time – mostly via mime as our Japanese, I’m embarrassed to say, was limited to yes, no, hello, goodbye and thank you! But we had a very enthusiastic delivery of our Japanese phrases…

Our room was very clean and tidy – AND – we had a sink and a loo – happy days!

It was, however, frozen in 1989. Complete with bed ruffles, English tea sets and matching curtains. Which provoked a fit of the giggles from TB as the earnest Assistant Manager was pointing out the room features….endlessly. I think the friend cups had a bit to do with it.

Hotel Subaru is renowned for its onsen, and wowser – hello fantastic onsen! It was a remarkable setup, indoor and out. And again, we pretty much had it to ourselves and by now TB and I regarded ourselves as onsen aficionados! Off came the hiking gear, out came the wash bag and the onsen basket and pfffft – who needs a modesty towel?!

COLD plunge pool!!!
Women’s outdoor
Women’s indoor
Where we wallowed for quite some time!

The outside onsen was tranquil, and soothing, and we had the place to ourselves (which meant I could sneak some photos!) We emerged squeaky clean and very relaxed.

This is where we both now did a happy dance. You know dinner is going to be great when you are shown to your own little dining enclave, complete with privacy curtain and a table set for a king (actually, two majestic queens).

TB happily seated
Why yes I will have a glass…
The beautifully scripted menu
This was actually BREAKFAST the next morning!!!! See our bento boxes for lunch...

We were treated to some incredible dishes including a whole cooked fish, a shabushabu which was a meal in itself and some beautiful sake. The atmosphere really made it a treat and the attendants were impeccable in their service and attention to detail.

I can see why omotenashi is such a part of the overall Japanese hospitality experience. I felt like visiting royalty, but in a way that showed immense respect to all parties. Well done Hotel Subaru.

NAN-IN TEMPLE – SHUKUBO EXPERIENCE

Our final destination before returning to Tokyo wasn’t on the Kumano trail, but falls within the prefecture of Wakayama, the spiritual centre of Kumano. Koyasan (Mount Koya) is the mountain of temples, comprised of 117 Buddhist temples founded over 1,200 years ago. Located high in the forest covered mountains, it won’t be a spoiler alert for me to say this was one of the most magical and spiritually affirming destinations I’ve ever had the privilege of going to.

Please put Koyasan on your list when hiking Kumano, you won’t be disappointed. And you will certainly get your walking distances in. TB and I walked 10km on our first day in Koyasan – so much to see!

Nan-In is one of the many temples which has been partially modified to allow for overnight experiences. They offer a simple, traditional glimpse into the Buddhist life and rituals. We were very impressed with the entrance to Nan-In, which was rather ornate to honour the gods. The temple is to the left, and the accommodation on the right of the compound.

We were greeted (as we were used to now) with outstanding omotenashi. Our boots had little homes to live in outside the front door and our raincoats and packs were dried and delivered to our room. Koyasan is quite high, and it was about 6 degrees and misty rain when we arrived…brrrrrrr.

We were looked after by a young monk who spoke English, he was very patient and helpful. He seemed to be on call 24/7 for guests as whenever we popped our heads into the office door, the monks waved us out and the young monk appeared soon after. That’s omotenashi!

We were shown to our room, past the communal sinks and toilet facilities. Everything was immaculate and I am not exaggerating when I say you could have eaten off the floor. The attention to detail was incredible and could be seen in every nook and cranny as we walked through the building.

Look out – incoming!
Our lovely tatami room

Our room was superb and had a lovely courtyard view. It consisted of an entrance space where suitcases lived, and then the main tatami space, with a sunroom out to the courtyard. We were the only guests in the wing…there’s something to be said for travelling in shoulder season… 😉

Our dinner slot was 6pm. Because we had been exploring Koyasan until quite late, we flipped things around and had dinner before the onsen. We presented ourselves at the main entry, and were ushered into a very ornate and opulent private dining room. There was a shrine in one corner, beautifully decorated sliding panels and a low dining table set for two. The only indication that we weren’t alone in the temple were the twanging American voices of a group across the hallway as they a) struggled to sit down on the floor, b) figure out the eating utensils and c) make sense of the communal bathroom facilities 🙂

Our dining experience was a wonderful treat. Koyasan is a mountain village and was quite cold, even in late March. To counter that, we had UNDER TABLE HEATING!! Our meal was simple, but perfect. I am now an expert in how many ways tofu can be cooked and still taste lovely. All the temples are strictly vegetarian and based on what we were served, possibly plant based. We had (again) modestly priced sake and enjoyed every sip.

After our wonderful meal we went for a soak. The onsen, was very small and indoor only. It did the trick however and we were able to cleanse, bathe and soak solo. It’s not a prerequisite, but still nice to have the onsen to yourself.

Kumano Travel photo of the onsen

TIP

Most onsens are only open during the evening, not in the morning. Plan to bathe on your arrival, or after dinner. If you’re a morning bather, be prepared to adjust…or sponge bath in the loos! at Nan-In, the onsen was open from 4pm to 10pm. Look for the coloured curtains which denote gendered bathing areas – they also do swap around so always check the colours. I have no easy answer for my non-gendered readers except to follow you authentic self and enjoy your onsen experience.

Overnight, no complaints. We were warm and comfy. Except our pillows were beans. Yep, dried beans. Quite firm and small, maybe A4 size? I was clever, I ditched the pillow and went for a bundle of clothes. Worked a treat. TB persevered with her bean torture, and ended up doing emails for most of the night. Not me!

We had an invitation to attend morning prayers before breakfast. No way we were going to miss that! We almost didn’t get in as TB and I were trying to ‘pull’ a ‘slide’ door but we made it. The ceremony was very calming and beautiful to witness. I love the fact that Buddhism just assumes you’re good people, no threshold, no test, just come on in. I’m not a religious person but I appreciate anything that encourages me to stop – breathe – and centre myself.

Kumano Travel photo of worship hall

Breakfast was a cut down version of dinner, again in our own dining paradise with fabulous service and food. Lots of vegetables and tofu. I was very happy 🙂

TB and I left with our souls and tummies replenished and looking forward to our final leg in Japan.

So there you have it. my list of Rating the Ryokans. There are places I wouldn’t stay at again, but I wouldn’t change a thing.

TB and I had the trip of our lives and that included all the experiences. Ichie Cafe, the hairy snoring neighbour but wonderful chiffon cake, the Hi-De-Hi camp with a magical misty outside onsen…every less than ideal stay was also a travel moment to be treasured, embraced and remembered.

Take my rankings with a grain of salt and rather than put you off, I hope these two blogs enrich your decision making process. Not one of our nights on the trail was unpleasant. Every night was an experience – with maybe a couple I don’t need to repeat!

That’s all for now, see you out on the trails

PJ 🙂

RATING THE RYOKANS – PART ONE

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn Hiking, Kumano Kodo, mental health, Onsen, Outdoors, Ryokans, UncategorizedLeave a comment

Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog.

I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

I’ve just returned from an amazing hiking experience on the Kumano Kodo and what better way to help you plan your Kumano adventure than for me to share my experiences on ryokans 🙂

One big consideration when planning your Kumano kike is accommodation and deciding where to stay. Modern? Traditional? Backpacker? Five Star?

There are many options available to the discerning hiker (you’re welcome) and it’s both fun and frantic navigating the plethora of options.

These two blogs pull back the curtain on what you can expect from your overnights. I will cover off the good, the bad and the ugly as I rate the ryokans! Note – our accommodation was booked via our Kumano travel company, Raw Travel.

WHAT IS A RYOKAN?

First, lets talk specifics. There are a few names used when discussing accommodation in Japan. It’s important to know the difference before you start making your bookings or confirming with your travel company.

RYOKAN – traditional style inn, usually adjacent to a hot spring area or resort. Private room, sometimes with bathroom.

MINSHUKU – traditional bed and breakfast house, usually family operated. Private or shared rooms, shared bathroom.

MINPAKU – older houses converted into accommodation. Usually unattended. Basic facilities.

SHUKUBO – Buddhist temples converted to tourist accommodation. Private room, shared bathroom.

WESTERN HOTEL – as it sounds, larger chain hotels with western rooms and bathrooms.

CAPSULE HOTEL – also known as pod hotels, rows of compact, self contained capsules with shared bathroom.

ONSEN – the natural hot springs, bathing facilities and resort areas surrounding the hot springs.

For ease of reference (and my love of alliteration), I have titled these blogs Rating the Ryokans, but I did stay in a range of accommodation experiences beyond ryokans during my time on Kumano Kodo.

ICHIE CAFE & GUESTHOUSE – MINPAKU EXPERIENCE

Our first night on our Kumano hike was in Kii-Tanabe. We travelled down from Tokyo via Osaka which took most of the day, and were booked to stay at Kii-Tanabe, and leave early the next morning. Kii-Tanabe is the jump point for most hikers to start Kumano, which is located about 20 minutes away at Takijiri.

We were a little perplexed about our first night’s accommodation. Ichie Cafe is exactly that – a cafe which specialised in chiffon cake. It was expansively described as “authentic“. I would describe it as “bare bones backpacker“.

We stayed in one of two guest rooms adjacent to the cafe area, set up in traditional tatami style with futons on the floor. The walls were paper, and our host provided ear plugs, which gives you an indication of what to expect. And sure enough, we scored not only a snoring neighbour, but his partner who felt the need to use a hairdryer at 1.17am. For quite some time….

Access after 3pm was via a key lockbox as the host was not on site after hours. We shared a grubby shower area which was liberally festooned with very long black hairs, and a kitchenette. We didn’t use any of the facilities beyond the toilet and the sink for teeth brushing. The shower was just too much for me to tackle 😦

Breakfast was packaged chiffon cake in the fridge. Not ideal fuel for tackling a 14km steep hike. Chiffon cake is usually a delightful afternoon snack, but holds zero nutritional value for any exercise.

Our host was very pleasant and familiar with Kumano hikers so was used to the suitcase transfer arrangement.

CHIKATSUYU – MINSHUKU EXPERIENCE

After our first night on the Kumano, were were very unsure about what to expect for our second lodgings. We had walked about 15km from Takijiri all the way to Chikatsuyu and arrived at the village on dusk – very tired.

WOW – what a fabulous experience! A family owned and run establishment with separate tatami and shared facilities which were immaculate. It also had a hot spring onsen which was divine after our hiking day.

Hiker friendly foyer
our tatami, we had already started sorting our things!

The room we had was large with crisp, clean bedding (see above) and lovely yukata to wear after onsen. Our suitcases arrived before us and were in the room, thoughtfully placed on a plastic sheet so as not to damage the tatami mats. We then used that same mat to dump and sort our dirty gear.

Dinner (kaiseki ryori) was a lovely shared dining experience and we had the ability to purchase very modestly priced drinks. Our room was equipped with fluffy doonas, additional blankets and had heating as well as windows you could open for fresh air. The building itself appeared quite new and everything was in tip top condition and exceptionally clean.

Not only did we have a wonderful dinner, but then did it all again at breakfast before we left – along with our lunch bento box.

Breakfast Banquet!

Our hosts could not do enough for us. They were responsive, extremely welcoming and very proud of their lodgings – as they should be. Everything was sparkling clean, the bathroom facilities were spotless and I was very happy to enjoy their riverside onsen!

KAWAYU MIDORIYA – RYOKAN EXPERIENCE

This was our first exposure to a ryokan – albeit a rather large one! Kawayu Modoriya is located about 4km outside of Hongu, in a cluster of onsen villages scattered in the mountains.

It has a fantastic indoor and outdoor onsen located on the River Oto, which is one of the reasons it’s a very popular destination with tourists and locals. The building itself is seven stories and very much a traditional hotel, but the experience within is driven by the Japanese practice of omotenashi, which I can best describe as mindful, authentic hospitality. Omotenashi extended from the front desk staff, to the restaurant staff, to the lovely room attendant refreshing the ikebana arrangements on our floor.

Our room was a tatami style on level six overlooking the river and outdoor onsen. This was the first time we had a full amenities bathroom – so pretty exciting. Everything was immaculately clean and staff laid out your bedding when you were at dinner, no need to wrestle the futons onto the floor.

Hotel from across the river
Our room
the view and outdoor pools

The onsen was outstanding. Not only did we have full indoor facilities, but there were two mixed outdoor pools (see above). No nudity outside though (whew), we had yukata that we could wear in the pool – all very decent.

Dinner at Kawayu Midoriya was an experience all of its own. It was a combination of shabushabu at the table, and then a sumptuous buffet to choose from. We cooked up a storm and then proceeded to try everything on offer. We were stylishly dressed in our lovely hotel yukata, slippers and jacket – very fancy!

The location of this hotel is simply stunning. It sits next to the River Oto and our room not only was riverside, but facing a beautiful forest. We stayed here twice on non-consecutive nights as we were hiking different sections of Kumano, and watching the river gently bubble past with rain mist hovering and the twinkling village lights in the distance was very special.

First stay – sunny
Second stay – misty… and lots more flow due to rain!

Our farewell gift from Kawayu Midoriya was a bento box for our hiking lunch – packed full of goodies. A fitting goodbye from a fabulous place to stay.

The banana leaf package had lovely nigiri and rice balls… 🙂

MANSEIRO – RYOKAN EXPERIENCE

Our next stop was the seaside town of Kii-Katsuura, about 30 minutes south of Shingu. We had travelled down the Kumano River by traditional boat and spent some time at the Shingu Kumano Shrine, and our overnight stay was at the lovely Manseiro.

Manseiro is a small boutique hotel on the Kii-Katsuura waterfront, facing the fishing harbour. Kii-Katsuura is a working town, so expect a very authentic fishing vibe. If you’re vegan or don’t enjoy fish – give this overnight a miss…if not, then read on!

Fun fact, the tuna market in town boasts the largest haul of fresh tuna in Japan and holds daily tuna auctions, much like the Tokyo fish market, but to scale. TB is a sashimi fan so we had a LOT of fun in the market food hall.

TB ordering…yum yum!

Back to Manseiro. A small hotel, perhaps 20 rooms, but very tidy and well presented. Less multilingual staff than we had encountered so far, one front desk staff member spoke English and he was very excited to talk to us. We were the only ‘western’ tourists there – so we felt quite special. Google Translate got a good workout.

Our room was actually two rooms and a bathroom, tatami style. Very spacious. We used one room for our bags and gear, and the other for sleeping. Immaculately clean and well presented – which we realised was the norm, and Ichie Cafe was the exception. We weren’t harbourside, but overlooked the back street which was quite entertaining. It was a very traditional town so our view was very old Japanese architecture – fine by me.

Standing in front of our ryokan
Very fishy!

Our next treat was the onsen, with both indoor and outdoor facilities – and we had it to ourselves so I could take some photos! It’s very bad form to take photos in the onsen when other people are present, understandable as I wouldn’t want to be in someone’s background in all my birthday glory…

Me after bathing
Notice the red face? quite hot
outdoors
Indoor with bathing stools and nozzles
TB rocking the yukata and accoutrements 🙂

After our onsen it was time for dinner. OH MY. I thought we had experienced some great kaiseki ryori and omotenashi – we were in for an 11 course delight at Manseiro. We were ushered to our sectioned off table – the dining area is made up of little private dining spaces where guests can enjoy the company and the food.

It was a seafood extravaganza, delectable finery served by highly professional staff. TB and I dined on (in no particular order) salmon, scallop, tofu, rice, white fish, octopus, mushrooms, beef, tuna and….wait for it……white abalone! (or for those from Aotearoa, paua). It was tabled raw and we simmered it in our shabushabu with butter for about 10 minutes, and finished it with a squeeze of lemon.

The menu
white abalone!!!
dessert
What we sat down to!!! See the butter and lemon to the right – ready for abalone simmering….

We had the loveliest server who was our immediate adopted nana. She sorted us out, checked our abalone cooking skills were up to scratch, said yes and now, and gave us big smiles when we got it right. All without a shared language except a love of food. I felt appreciated as a guest, and I deeply appreciated the omotenashi extended to me.

I don’t recall eating the dessert, by then I think I had fallen into a happy food coma. This was a dining experience I won’t forget in a hurry.

TB and I departed Manseiro with a deep respect for a fishing town full of quality, culture, experiences and tuna 🙂

SUMMARY (for now)

Given that I have sooooooo much to share with you about the places TB and I stayed on our Kumano Kodo trip, I’ve split this blog into part one and part two. Next time I’ll tell you all about a very odd ryokan/training camp setup, a western style hotel in the middle of nowhere and to round out our magical experience, our stay in a Koyasan shukubo!!!!

See you out on the trails.

PB.

TOP 10 “MUST HAVES” FOR KUMANO KODO

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn Hiking, Kumano Kodo, mental health, Outdoors, Uncategorized3 Comments

Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog.

I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

I’ve just returned from an amazing hiking experience on the Kumano Kodo and I thought I’d share with you my top 10 ‘must haves‘ to hike the Kumano.

So – you want to hike in Japan. You start by doing a bit of research. You google all the things, decide whether you will go through a company or plan it all yourself. You decide what trails you are going to experience, when you’re going and who you’re going with. You book airline tickets, you pay all your money and then the hard bit begins.

WHAT DO YOU TAKE WITH YOU??!

For a good place to start, have a look at my blog “What to Pack for a 10 Day Hike on Kumano Kodo” which I wrote before I went. Happily, I was pretty much on the money with what came with me, however, now I’m back I can, with absolute authority, tell you the top 10 ‘must haves‘ to take with you on your hike in Japan.

Let’s begin the countdown. You’ll be surprised at what came in at #1…

#10 – ANTIHISTAMINES

Seems an odd thing to have on a top 10 list, but I found them invaluable. We hiked through forests, paddocks, villages and up and down mountains – if you have allergies you will react at some point. Also, and this is something I didn’t expect, my hiking partner and sister TB had an allergic reaction to the tatami mats in the ryokan. Tatami mats are made out of woven sea rush and rice straw. After a couple of nights, TB’s eyes looked like she had gone ten rounds with Mike Tyson!

I packed a couple of different types of antihistamine just in case – Nasonex and Zyrtec. They did the trick.

#9 – COFFEE SACHETS

So, we heard through our research, that most ryokans don’t do coffee. And that’s absolutely correct. If they do, it’s not very nice. Definitely no skinny lattes or flat whites on order!

We decided to take some instant coffee sachets with us. And we used them every day. All you need is hot water. Admittedly, if you take your coffee without sugar they might not be ideal, but TB used half a sachet and combined it with a good old Nescaf̩ instant sachet and boom Рa halfway decent coffee.

You can see the ‘perked coffee pot’ lurking to the left…and the UHT milk…!
500ml Thermos purchases. Fantastic value for $$

We bought some ridiculously cheap Thermos’s in Tokyo before we started hiking and then used them all around the Kumano – hot coffee for morning tea was just perfect.

#8 – CASH

Seems obvious – right? Of course you take cash on a holiday, but mostly use a travel card, a credit card or apple pay etc….right? WRONG. Local buses all over the Kii Peninsula DON’T TAKE CARDS. The vending machines all along Kumano take cards but may not be secure and the little stores, village shops, and trinket places are pretty much cash only businesses. So not only is cash king, but coins are the king of kings as buses usually take exact change only for fares and Kapan has a 1,000JPY coin. Smart!

I even bought a lovely little coin purse to use because I was taking out my wallet multiple times a day to pay for things as we journeyed along Kumano. I was pleasantly surprised at how affordable Japan was, and we really enjoyed the $2AUD 500ml Asahi cans and the $2.50AUD ‘friend pot’ sakes. We found these two at a tiny grocery store in the middle of nowhere in Koguchi after hiking 25km. Yum!

Best $2 beer I ever had. And was cold!
‘Friend pots’ – TB’s new favourite

Take a bit more than you think you will need, I allowed $60AUD a day (6,000JPY) and spent my last 4,000JPY at Haneda airport on the way home 🙂

#7 – BLOW UP CAMPING MATTRESS

I know, I know. But hear me out.

Traditional tatami and futon rooms in Japan can be quite firm. My family and I holidayed in Tokyo about four years ago and stayed in a traditional ryokan. The futon was QUITE FIRM.

So, I jumped online and purchased a camping mattress for less than $40. If I used it, happy days, and if not, then I hadn’t spent a fortune.

Weighed about 500g and really did pack down to nothing

I used it every night we slept in a tatami room. Yep. Honest.

It had a foot pump, took 3 minutes to inflate and I just slipped it under the futon. It really did make a difference for me and I woke each morning well rested and ready to tackle the day.

#6 – WATER SUPPLEMENTS

I get leg cramps at night, often after prolonged exercise, so it seemed logical to take some form of magnesium with me. TB had a mineral supplement that her son, a competitive tennis player, uses so we took that and added it to our water each day. I had a protein supplement that I also threw in, which enabled to me to keep hydrated as well as fuelled without having to snack constantly.

Both supplements worked really well – no cramps and good recovery each day.

#5 – HYDRATION PACK

Speaking of water, rather than use a water bottle, I decided to use a hydration pack. I have a 3L one that I have used for long hikes like the Gold Coast Kokoda Challenge, and I like the style, easy to clean and easy to drink when moving. The tube sits across my shoulder so I don’t need to twist or take my backpack off to access water. It also means that I tend to drink more as it’s literally right in my face. Win/Win.

My 3L option, easy to clean and use.

#4 – WATERPROOF RAINCOAT

And I do mean waterproof! I spent a lot of time shopping around to find the best possible, highest quality waterproof raincoat in my budget, and finally settled on a Kathmandu Flinders waterproof/windproof/breathable hiking rain jacket. It set me back about $200AUD but the fabric is the equivalent of Gore-Tex so I knew it would stand up. And it did. I wore it every day for warmth and then when the heavens opened for three days I was dry and happy. Fantastic value and wouldn’t hike without it – who doesn’t love a mint green jacket?!

Pristine, prior to hiking
Stayed on most of the hiking!

#3 – HIKING BOOTS

Not shoes. Boots.

Kumano Kodo is a thousand years old, but that doesn’t mean that it’s a smooth and flat hiking trail. Sections of it are particularly challenging due to the use of large numbers of stones for stairs and paths. It can be slippery and treacherous even without rain. Having decent ankle support made such a difference – I couldn’t even imagine hiking Kumano in a shoe – EEEEEK!

My preference was a Merrell waterproof boot, pictured on the right. Didn’t put a foot wrong (*boomtish*)

My hybrid trail shoes and the faithful hiking boots.

Thankfully there were no spills but there were quite a few near misses, I’m not the most graceful biped at the best of times so firm ankle support was a must.

#2 – HIKING POLES

Almost at #1! And yes, poles are right up there with hiking boots. I must have blessed my little hiking poles a thousand times along the Kumano, mainly for downhill support as we traversed some serious mountains. There are two options with downhill. Firstly, you can slip, trip and scoot down, either on your butt or trying not to be. Or, you can use hiking poles to steady and anchor yourself. I found they increased my speed and confidence, and when you’re trying to get off the trails before dusk, they are incredibly handy. I chose collapsible for travel reasons, but it also meant that when they weren’t in use, they simply slotted into my backpack. Simples.

Day One – don’t need them yet, stowed in backpack
Day Two – out and in use
Day Two- not really being used, but expertly carried!
Day Three – slow but steady up the slippery stones
Day Four – unauthorised use of hiking poles

#1 – GLOBAL ROAMING/INTERNATIONAL SIM

Bet you didn’t pick this as #1!!!!

Can I say we would have been lost (literally) without access to Google Maps, Google Translator and a million other apps and ‘things’. Free wifi was great in the ryokans of an evening, but that’s not when we needed to see the ‘things’. We accessed mobile data constantly when out and about. On the trail, at train stations, in the villages, in shops, in Osaka, in Tokyo – everywhere for everything.

Knowing you can look something up gives an immense peace of mind, and when you’re in a new country, not speaking the language and no real knowledge of where you are supposed to be – it’s very reassuring.

Hiking is all about maps and trails. Getting from point A to point B. Measuring distance and time. Tracking progress and achieving milestones. I loved the fact I could push the Strava button and in 8 hours, I could document my amazing achievement – but all in the background.

Invest in a daily roaming rate or snap up an international SIM deal. I paid $5 a day via Vodafone for my mobile data in Japan and it was money well spent.

So, there you have it.

My top 10 “must haves” when heading to Japan to walk the Kumano Kodo. I hope this helps as you plan, prepare, pack, pay and play!

Stay tuned for my next couple of blogs where I will Rate the Ryokans and Own the Onsens….. 🙂

See you next time out on the trails.

PJ.

HIKING THE KUMANO KODO #4

On By LikeTheHikeBlogIn Hiking, mental health, Outdoors, UncategorizedLeave a comment

Hello and welcome to my LIKETHEHIKE blog.

I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insights, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.

DAY SIX & DAY SEVEN – KOGUCHI TO UKEGAWA, TAKIO TO TOTSUKAWA

After three days on the trails and a rest day, we were ready for our next adventure. However, the rain gods had other ideas. Overnight the heavens opened and we woke to this.

Not the best forecast for forest hiking

It was forecast to rain for 24-36 hours solid. And it wasn’t a drizzle here or there, it was rain with regular thunderstorms just to spice it up.

TB and I did a hike maybe three years ago in the Gold Coast hinterland called the Warrie Circuit. It’s a 14km loop – 7km down into the forest floor, past some majestic waterfalls and then 7km back up. Usually it’s a lovely hike. Except if its raining. Then it becomes 8 hours of unpleasant, gluggy, muddy hot mess. The enjoyment of the hike disappeared as the day became an injury prevention exercise…

So, hiking the Koguchi to Ukegawa leg in steady rain on an unknown trail, steep terrain and slippery stones didn’t appeal to either of us.

Challenging even on a good day

TIP – KNOW YOUR LIMITS

Everyone has a fair idea of what their body and mind can do on a hike. Pushing beyond those limits can be done when you’re in a safe space and for a short period, however, everyone has a tip point where they feel unsafe or out of control. Knowing when to stop, or not start at all isn’t failing, it’s understanding what you can safely achieve and importantly, what you can enjoy. I prefer to live to fight another day than take unnecessary risks and make life miserable.

Day six turned into a tourist day in Shingu and Kii-Katsuura, ducking the rain and exploring. PS – I was very happy with the waterproof performance of my Kathmandu rain jacket 🙂

Shingu Torii – just as the heavens opened on us!
The fishing port of Kii-Katsuura
TB posing in one of the trading streets in Kii-Katsuura

Day seven we awoke to pretty much the same conditions as the day before – rain. It was supposed to clear late morning, but that meant we would need to start on the Yakio to Totsugawa leg in the train and after 36 hours worth of rain had fallen on the trail. The terrain map told quite a scary story……

ummmmm…

So, rather than tackle the above, we decided to hike the Hongu to Fushiogami-oji trail up and back. Less risky but still meaningful. Life is nothing without compromise.

A good outing for a half day.

Kumano Hongu Taisha to Fushiogami-oji and back

As we discovered, tourists take a bus up from Hongu to the shrine at Hosshinmon and then walk back down the mountainside, about 7km. This meant as we walked up, we encountered a number of tourists wandering back down. We got some odd looks, I’m guessing we were the only ones heading up the hill, and the only ones in hiking gear. Good news – the rain had stopped and the skies cleared pretty quickly to a nice day.

We started the hike by climbing the stairs up to the Hongu shrine precinct. I didn’t do a count, but it was a good way to loosen up leg muscles.

The long stone staircase leading to the shrine. Funnily, you keep to the right…not left.

The grounds of the shrine precinct remind me of a bustling little village, with something always happening. There are shops, pilgrims, tour groups, a working post box and then the three main shrine areas. TB and I actually got to pray at the shrine, I was terrified I would get the order of “clap and bow” wrong – but it all worked out OK. Whew.

Yep – it is a real working post box
a village map
Write down your prayer and they’re burned every month
two of the three shrines

The trail picks up on the street at the ‘back’ of the shrine precinct. It’s easy to find, just walk ‘upstream’ through the tourists! A stone staircase takes you up to the start of the forest, past a lovely little shrine and a small, peaceful cemetery with beautiful traditional headstones.

shrine just outside the precinct
very tranquil…

The rain had stopped, but the trail heading up the mountain was still pretty soggy with the wide steps forming little swimming pools. Not sure how the tourists in sneakers were managing coming down, I’m guessing there were some wet feet!

About 1.5km up the trail, there was a loop deviation up to a viewing area where we decided to have a coffee. It gave us a majestic view of the Oyunohara O-torii, the largest torii shrine gate in the world at 34m tall and 42m wide. We had seen it up close earlier in the week – pretty impressive.

TB and I had a bit of fun on the hike taking lots of photos. We passed a rest pavilion adjacent to the Sangen-jaya Teahouse Remains and crossed a cute bridge to get over the road. So many things to look at – and we got to see them going up and coming back down!

We arrived at our destination around 1pm, and we had our bento box from our ryokan so it seemed only logical to sit, look at the view and eat.

The tearooms – closed today but we could sit up there and eat lunch
the view from our perch

The teahouse was shut so no ‘forest juice’ to be purchased, but we could still sit and relax. The seating area overlooked a small tea plantation, and it was during lunch that we noticed that the bushes were ‘moving’, as if there was a wind blowing, but it was a still day.

It was then that we saw them. MONKEYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

About the size of a golden retriever, and brown in colour. Once you saw one, you started to see them everywhere. There was a troop of about 30 monkeys in the plantation and in the surrounding trees. What a treat!

can you see him?!
walking along the ground to the right of the tree…
no monkeys but a pretty cherry blossom 🙂

After a very entertaining lunch break, we retraced our steps back down the mountain to Hongu.

stepping over the puddles
beautiful red ‘shrooms
kumano at its best
nature providing the stairs

It certainly wasn’t a long hike compared to what we had achieved overall on Kumano Kodo, but it certainly was an enjoyable one. There and back was about 10km and well worth it.

This was our last hike on the Kumano, as we were heading further into the mountains to stay at Koyasan and explore for a couple of days, and then back to Tokyo and Australia.

MY THOUGHTS ON KUMANO KODO

Taking time out from my life to hike in a forest wasn’t a lifelong goal, but as you get older, priorities shift and hiking in Japan became something that TB and I wanted to do together.

With families and jobs, going away for 10 days would be a challenge, and there is never a good time – but we found a slot that worked and went for it. And I’m so pleased we did.

Look at what we hiked…AMAZING!! All of this!!!

This experience was one in a million. It allowed me to relax and breathe. It allowed me to think just of myself and my needs. It allowed me to smile and laugh. A lot. It allowed me to embrace physical challenges and see what I could really do. It allowed me to dip into a different culture and experience some amazing hospitality.

And finally, after over 30 years it allowed me to travel and holiday with my sister. For the first time.

Pretty special huh… 🙂

PJ and TB – boots on and ready for an adventure!

I got to walk along paths that are over one thousand years old, through remote villages that housed people six hundred years ago. I got to touch shrines that have been touched by generations and generations of pilgrims. I got to smell the forests, feel the rain and see some amazing things.

I returned home refreshed and energised, looking forward to my next hiking adventure. What better accolade could there be than wanting to do it all again ?!

Thanks Kumano Kodo for an incredible experience.

See you out on the trails.

PJ