“You’re going back to Japan….AGAIN??” We’ve heard it more than once since booking our next hiking adventure. The answer is simple. Yes. Happily. And if someone offered us free business flights tomorrow, we’d probably already be packing.
Because sometimes you don’t go back to a place because you’ve run out of new destinations. You go back because it gave you something you can’t quite find anywhere else.
It All Started with the Kumano Kodo
Back in 2023, TB and I spent nine incredible days walking sections of the Kumano Kodo on a self-guided hike. To say it exceeded our expectations would be an understatement. The ancient forests, tiny mountain villages, peaceful shrines, steaming onsens, incredible food and the genuine kindness of our hosts combined to create one of the most memorable travel experiences either of us has ever had.
It wasn’t just a holiday, it genuinely changed the way I looked at hiking.
I’d always enjoyed getting outdoors, but Kumano Kodo showed me that walking wasn’t simply about getting from A to B, it was about slowing down, noticing things, embracing discomfort, connecting with history and finding joy in the simple rhythm of putting one foot in front of the other.
By the time we flew home, we knew one thing for certain. We’d be back.
The Search Began…
Finding our next adventure wasn’t as simple as booking another Kumano Kodo trip. We wanted something new. Naturally, we started researching.
The Nakasendo Way
Nakasendo was probably our first serious contender. It links Tokyo and Kyoto through historic post towns, beautiful villages and centuries of history. It looked spectacular. But the more we researched, the more we realised it wasn’t quite the experience we were chasing. Many sections pass through open farmland and sweeping plains. Beautiful? Absolutely. But after experiencing the dense cedar forests, misty mountain paths and secluded villages of Kumano Kodo, we realised we were craving another immersive forest experience.
We wanted towering trees, we wanted moss-covered trails (not the stones tho -they were slippery suckers!). We wanted to finish the day soaking in an onsen after disappearing into the mountains.
Nakasendo is firmly on our list, but not this time.
Michinoku Coastal Trail
Next came the Michinoku Coastal Trail. Again, it looked incredible. Rugged coastlines, fishing villages, and dramatic ocean views. But then we both laughed. We live on the Gold Coast in Queensland, Australia. As stunning as the Japanese coastline is, we realised that if we were travelling overseas to hike, we wanted something completely different from what we see every day. The coast wasn’t calling us, the mountains were.
Nikko National Park
Nikko was another possibility. Beautiful forests, World Heritage temples, mountain scenery. It ticked a lot of boxes. The only problem? It’s really a two to three-day hiking experience. For us, travelling internationally is a significant investment, so we wanted something we could immerse ourselves in for longer. If we were making the trip to Japan again, we wanted a proper multi-day adventure.
Then We Discovered Shikoku
And suddenly everything clicked.
Shikoku is famous for its 88 Temple Pilgrimage, a remarkable circular route of around 1,200km connecting 88 Buddhist temples across the island. Pilgrims have been walking it for over 1,000 years. Some complete the entire circuit in 6-8 weeks. Some travel by bike. Some by bus. Some over multiple years. And many, like us, simply choose a section or three.
And that’s what appealed to us – we didn’t have to commit to the entire pilgrimage to experience its magic. The trail naturally lends itself to shorter adventures, allowing walkers to select sections that suit their time, fitness and interests while still experiencing the culture and spirit of the pilgrimage.
For TB and me, that flexibility made Shikoku the perfect choice.
Why Japan Again?
People often ask why we didn’t choose somewhere completely different – the Cotswold Way, Camino…or Canada??
The answer is simple. Because we both loved Japan. The hiking is exceptional. The food is amazing. The history is fascinating, and the culture is welcoming, respectful and endlessly interesting.
There’s something incredibly comforting about finishing a long day on the trail with a hot meal, a soak in an onsen and a quiet evening at a traditional ryokan. Japan also makes sense practically. From Australia, it’s a relatively easy international trip of around 10 hours, with minimal time zone changes, so we can enjoy an incredible hiking holiday without taking long blocks of leave or being jetlagged for a week. With around 10 days available, it strikes the perfect balance between adventure and reality.
And guess what? We have other adventures in England, Spain and the Dolomites lined up for future visits!
Our Shikoku Adventure Awaits
So, in a few short months, TB and I will spend 9 days walking selected sections of the Shikoku Pilgrimage. There’ll be forests, mountain climbs, temple visits, tiny villages, and probably some sore legs. Hopefully plenty of onsens. Almost certainly far too much delicious Japanese food.
Most importantly, we’re looking forward to slowing down again. Because that’s what hiking in Japan seems to do so well. It reminds you that sometimes the best journeys aren’t about seeing as much as possible, they’re about seeing a little more deeply.
And honestly, we can’t wait to see where the Shikoku trail takes us.
When people hear that TB and I are hiking around Shikoku in Japan this October, the first question is usually “how are you training for that?” The answer surprises them a little.
I’m not spending every weekend climbing mountains or running marathons. Instead, I’ve built a routine that fits around work, family, the doggos and life in general. Because I’ve learned that the best training plan isn’t the most impressive one, it’s the one you will actually stick to.
Shikoku 2026 is a multi-day hike, which means success isn’t about smashing out one huge day. It’s about being able to get up the next morning…and do it all again. Day after day. So, my focus has been on building endurance, strength and consistency.
The Weekly Plan
My training isn’t complicated, but every session has a purpose.
1. Short Runs (3-4km)
A couple of shorter runs each week help build cardio fitness without taking up hours of my day. They’re long enough to get the heart rate up and keep the legs moving, but short enough to fit in before or after work. They’re also great for maintaining a base level of fitness between the bigger sessions.
Just to be clear, my ‘run’ pace is barely past a really fast walk pace, please don’t think I’m trying to beat a Gout Gout record!!
2. Hybrid Gym Classes
I belong to a local gym that offers a range of group classes, with slightly scary names like CC45, Body Pump, Core Fusion, WOW, and Team HIIT. What they all have in common is 45 minutes of strength training combined with cardio. For hiking, strong legs are important, but so are your core, back, shoulders and balance. Carrying a pack for multiple days (even if it’s only 5kg) places demands on your whole body, not just your feet and legs.
3. Long Hikes Every Second Weekend
Every second weekend is reserved for the most important session, a long hike of 10 km or more.
These hikes aren’t about speed. They’re about spending time on our feet (yep, TB is along, too!), learning what works, testing gear, wearing the backpack, experimenting with nutrition, and getting comfortable with being uncomfortable. We are mostly training in Nerang National Park for two reasons. 1) It’s close, so it works into a busy weekend, and 2) you’re either climbing up a hill or scrambling down one, so excellent conditioning.
It’s easy to find a 10+km section and get the distance done before lunch. Last weekend was a cheeky wee 8km intro hike, doing one of the loops in the NW corner.
4. Walking the Dogs
The final piece of the puzzle is probably the easiest and most enjoyable.
Regular walks with Moby and Maisie add extra kilometres without feeling like training. They keep me moving on recovery days, help loosen up tired legs and make sure I’m consistently active throughout the week.
Plus, the doggos seem to think every walk is an adventure, which is a pretty good attitude to have 🙂 (well, not so much Maisie on that rainy morning!)
It’s Not About Being Perfect
There’ll be weeks when work gets busy. There’ll be days when I miss a run, miss a gym class or swap things around. And that’s OK.
I’ve deliberately built flexibility into the plan because missing one session won’t derail weeks and weeks of preparation. What matters is getting back into the routine the next day.
Consistency beats perfection every single time.
Training for the Journey
The Shikoku pilgrimage isn’t just a physical challenge for TB and me. It’s also about slowing down. embracing simplicity, spending time with my sister and enjoying the journey. In many ways, the training reflects that.
The most fabulous training plan in the world won’t guarantee success on the trail. But turning up consistently, week after week, will give us the best chance of enjoying every step of our Shikoku adventure. And that’s exactly what this journey is all about.
Well, we’ve done it. My sister TB and I have officially booked our next hiking adventure. In October 2026, we’ll be heading to Japan to walk sections of the famous Shikoku Pilgrimage, an incredible trail that winds its way around Shikoku Island, connecting 88 temples through mountains, forests, coastal villages and bustling towns. It’s a journey steeped in history, culture and spirituality, and one that’s been on our radar for some time.
We’re hiking the yellow coloured sections!
Now that the flights are booked and the countdown has begun, it feels real. And that’s where this new blog series comes in.
Why “Like the Hike”?
Over the coming months, I want to share the lead-up to our adventure, not because I’m an expert hiker, but because I’m not. I’m just an ordinary person with a fulltime job, a husband, two slightly spoiled dogs, a calendar that always seems fuller than I’d like, and a goal that’s just audacious enough to be exciting.
I don’t spend every weekend climbing mountains.
I don’t own every piece of the latest hiking gear.
I don’t have unlimited time to train.
Like most people, I have to fit adventure around real life. And maybe that’s why I love to write this blog.
Come Along for the Journey
This won’t be a polished travel guide or a “how to” from someone who’s conquered every famous trail. Instead, it will be an honest look at preparation, planning, training, gear decisions, the inevitable overthinking about what to pack, and, hopefully, a few laughs along the way.
I’ll be sharing things like why we chose Shikoku, how I’m training around work and everyday life, the gear I’m upgrading, and the gear that’s staying home, how we’re planning to travel carry on only (!), food, accommodation, and budget, the mistakes we’ll probably make even before leaving home and eventually, what it actually feels like to walk the trail itself.
If you’re planning your own adventure, I hope some of it helps. If you’re simply curious, I hope you enjoy coming along for the ride.
And if you’ve ever looked at a hiking trail and thought, “I’d love to do that one day”, maybe this series will show you that you don’t have to be an extraordinary trail athlete to enjoy an extraordinary adventure.
You just have to take the first step.
So…welcome!
We’ve got 11 weeks until we depart (eeeek!). Lots to prepare, lots to learn and a long walk waiting for us in Japan. The next blog will break down our training plan to make sure we are trail fit, along with stress-testing our gear (and our bodies!).
Hi and welcome to my LikeTheHike blog. I’m PJ and I write about the hikes I take, giving you insight, photos, commentary, tips and tools so you can enjoy hiking and embrace the experience.
So, there are a million blogs and resources available for travel packing, how to pack light, how to pack smart, how to pack three items of clothing to last 3 weeks…etcetcetc. I won’t be covering any of that in this blog. This is a post about packing for 10 days hiking the amazing Kumano Kodo trail in Japan!!!!! BEYOND EXCITED!!!!!
Where are we going?
TB (sister) and I are heading to the Kumano Kodo Trail, a series of ancient pilgrimage routes that cross the Kii Hanto, the largest peninsula in Japan. For 1,000 years, pilgrims have been walking the routes as they undertook religious acts of worship and purification. In 2004, the Kuman Kodo routes were UNESCO world heritage listed, one of two alongside the Camino de Santiago in Spain. So, we are heading to a VERY COOL part of the world.
We have selected a 10 day self guided trek of the core section of Kumano Kodo called Nakahechi. It runs from Kii-Tanabe on the south western side of the peninsula, up into the mountains and finishes at Kii-Katsuura. It links the three Grand Shrines of Kumano, and has an incredibly rich historical and spiritual atmosphere.
The trek itself is 68km split into 7 days of hiking with 2 experience days and 1 rest day. We didn’t plan the whole trip ourselves, but decided to use an Aussie based trekking company called Raw Travel.
WHEN TO USE THE EXPERTS
When my husband and I travel for a holiday, I’m very happy to plot, plan and book as sorting the logistics for a holiday is part of the fun. However, this holiday is a bit different. We didn’t know exactly where we were going, what would happen, where to book overnights or what to expect. So, we decided to use a travel company that specialises in self-guided treks. Our accommodation, meals and daily luggage transfers are all sorted, we have maps, briefings, and in country support. All we have to do is walk! So far our experience with http://www.rawtravel.com has been excellent. Ask for Chris, she’s the Japan guru.
Why are we going?
Shouldn’t the question be why not? The window in which a person can both afford to travel and is fit enough to tackle multi day hikes is quite small – so we are seizing the day. And, this was a birthday trip planned for 2020, but scuttled thanks to COVID.
What am I packing?
I am a regular traveller so packing for a standard trip isn’t a challenge. However, this is a 13 day hiking trip, and 10 of those days are through terrain that doesn’t offer immediate access to amenities such as cafes, supermarkets or ATM machines. The good news is that our luggage is transferred each day to the next ryokan (B&B lodging) so we only have to carry a day pack.
So, what’s going to Japan??
1. CLOTHES
10 days of hiking in weather that may be cold, warm, gusty or raining – it’s tricky. I don’t want to pack too much, but conversely, I want to make sure I have enough so I’m not wearing crusty socks for 4 days in a row. Here’s my list from the inside out:
Undies – 14 – minimal seams and super comfy for all day walking
Bras – 3 – 1 standard sports bra (Berlei) and 2 wire free bras (Enell)
Swimsuit – although ryokan onsens are strictly a modesty towel only (yikes), the outside natural onsens on the trails are swimsuit friendly so I’m planning to frolic in the water. We are also transiting via Changi Airport on the way home, and I hear there’s a pool we can use there during layover!
Pjyamas – 2 – singlets and shortie sets
Tops – 7 – 3 short sleeved and 4 long sleeved (3 merino in total)
Bottoms – 4 – 3 full length and 1 calf length. Not a fan of hiking trousers…prefer stretchy.
Head & Hands – gloves, beanie and ear wraps (my ears ache in the cold), baseball cap and sun hat.
Vest – 1 – Kathmandu Heli down vest. I’m not sure how cold it will be in the mornings, and this packs down to nothing so it’s an easy inclusion. And it’s apricot – a good safe colour in the forest 🙂
Jackets – 2 – 1 waterproof raincoat (Kathmandu NGX3 Trailhead Jacket) and 1 softshell travel jacket (TK Maxx last winter)
Apricot – good colour for safetyWaterproof to 1,000m – or a days rainStylish and warm
WATCH THE RUB
When I hiked the Kokoda Challenge (49km over 15 hours non-stop), a small seam irritation or issue with clothes quickly escalates into something intolerable. Having clothing fit properly and lie smoothly under your backpack is critical. Ladies, I’m talking bras here! Try different bras, t-shirts, jumpers and jackets on your training hikes so you know what works, and more importantly, what doesn’t.
2. HIKING GEAR & EQUIPMENT
It’s the “too much vs not enough” argument here. What if it rains for 3 days straight and I can’t dry gear? What if the trail is actually really easy and light trail shoes are better than waterproof boots – or vice versa?
Footwear – North Face Vectiv Infinite trail shoes, Merrell waterproof hiking boots
Rainwear – Kathmandu NGX3 Trailhead Jacket (see above), and disposable ponchos. I’m not taking over-trousers because I just can’t walk in them. I’ll get wet, then dry off at the end of the day.
Day Pack – MacPac Rapaki Airstream 28L. ( I love the ventilated back – less “sweaty betty” and it can hold a lot of stuff)
Water – 3L MacPac camelpak which sits very nicely in the day pack and feeds out with a water tube. It’s not absolutely necessary for longer hikes like Kumano Kodo, but it means I have water on tap (*boomtish*) for the day.
Poles – MacPac telescopic hiking poles
Sleeping Pad – hear me out! When I was researching ryokan accommodation, there was mention that tatami mats and pillows can be quite firm. I really don’t want to be uncomfortable, so I bought a foot press inflatable air mattress that I can use under a tatami. Its only 500g and fits really nicely into the bottom of my pack. If I don’t need it – happy days.
Plastic Bags and Drinking Things – yes, I need plastic bags for wet gear, dirty shoes, dirty clothes and to protect my phone, laptop and passport. I am also taking a drink bottle which I can use for my protein water, and a little coffee mug to keep me happy in the mornings 🙂
UHOH…WE’VE LOST YOUR LUGGAGE
Lost and delayed luggage is a sad reality of travel. If my suitcase doesn’t make it to Tokyo in time to start Kumano Kodo, I can buy most things, but there are some things like boots and inserts which are worn in, and certain bits of clothing which I really prefer. So, I will be using my daypack as carry on, and will be packing non-negotiables such as hiking boots, inserts, one hiking outfit, medicine, laptop etc. Just in case…
3. MEDICAL & FIRST AID
I always carry a range of medications when travelling, Usually it’s gastro-stop, gaviscon, cold and flu tablets, panadol – drugs that keep you going as travel plans wait for no one! This trip is a little different as it’s post COVID, out of the main tourist areas, and we are hiking almost 70km in forests so the things I’m packing are:
Anti-inflammatory meds, a footcare kit, hikers wool, muscle ointment, strapping tape, allergy tablets, gastro-stop, bug spray, magphos tissue salts and a shaker of table salt (leeches…. 😦 )
I’m also taking face masks (Japan still requires masks to be worn on public transport and some flights) and a couple of packs of antiseptic wipes for hands and surfaces.
a cornucopia of pharmaceuticals!The OG
HIKERS WOOL
I grew up in New Zealand, and Hikers Wool is a fantastic kiwi product. My mum (SJ), an avid hiker in her time, swears by it and shared it when I started hiking seriously. It wraps around and underneath individual toes, moulds to your footprint, wicks away moisture and prevents friction – and therefore prevents blisters and damage. Don’t ask me the mechanics – it just works! See for yourself http://www.hikerswool.co.nz
4. FOOD
Another recommendation from Raw Travel was to take along hiking snacks. The Nakahechi section runs through some very traditional areas of the Kii Peninsula, so the ability to pop out for a latte will be limited. Corner stores are not on every corner so that means minimal access to snacks etc. TB and I are caffeine fiends, but only via the traditional coffee option and the feedback is most ryokans offer lovely tea, but not really coffee.
So, here’s what I’m taking sustenance wise:
Coffee – Avalanche Sugar Free Latte 10 pack. Its not a freshly made flat white, but it will do for that caffeine hit. Maybe it’s a good detox opportunity…!
Protein – FeedGood Tasteless Protein/Collagen which I add to my water bottle. It allows for easy protein delivery when you’re walking and you don’t want to be eating all the time. And it really is tasteless. Really!
Snacks – Carman’s Snack Bars and Aldi “On the Go” mixed nuts.
My snack needs are pretty simple when hiking. As you hike for longer periods of time, you find out what fuel works for your body, when and in what volume. I’m happy to have the same snacks each day 🙂 and then dive into the local delicacies at the evening meal.
5. OTHER STUFF
So, what else needs to be in my suitcase to ensure an amazing Kumano Kodo experience?
Electronics – laptop and phone, plug converter and charging cords. I’m still on the fence about taking a battery pack. They’re really heavy and we will be at a ryokan each night, so will be able to charge up. We also have access to an itinerary app via Raw Travel so we can track our daily instructions – what could go wrong?!
Cash – another tip from my research – take cash. There are very few EFTPOS and ATM facilities on Nakahechi. If we want a sake or two in the evenings, or buy things on the trail, it will most likely be a cash transaction. So, I did some complex calculations and decided on 5,000JPY a day ($55AUD). And, it was a nice round figure for the lovely Travelex kiosk lady. 🙂
Documentation – Japan travel requirements are pretty self explanatory, and they do require a COVID vaccination certificate at airport checkin, and there are a range of customs, immigration and quarantine forms online, which also have printouts you can take as backup. I’m not a luddite by any means, but I just don’t trust phones, links and screen shots when you’re next in line at customs. I’m a super law abiding traveller, but put me in front of a customers officer and I turn into a female version of Inspector Clouseau, complete with a severe case of the ‘dropsies’. So, I’m taking print copies of all of the above, as well as insurance docs, itinerary, train travel planning screen shots. I have a “folder”…. 🙂
Suitcase – this trip I’m trialling a soft shell Pacsafe Toursafe 96L anti-theft two wheel case. TBH I was quite surprised I got into this with all my stuff, so it’s deceptively roomy. I’ve paced around the house and driveway a couple of times fully loaded to see about wheel and handle robustness – so far so good.
Is That Everything?
After covering off all eventualities, all possibilities, all weather events and circumstances – I THINK I’M READY. AND SUPER EXCITED!!!
This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to experience something that is so different, so exciting and a hike that will, I feel, add to my growth as a human. I will be journaling on the hike, but will also be capturing some great stories (as I’m sure TB will do something very entertaining with her modesty towel in the onsens), so stay tuned for some more Kumano Kodo blogs!!!
Like The Hike 